Favorite Way Of Finishing A Project? - Page 2 - Router Forums
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-06-2016, 08:37 PM
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I'm planning to do some frames with inlays, which will have a different color stain than the main body of the frame. So I'm going to try some of the other approaches you all have described. That very light sanding of the poly finish before a final coat really made a difference, so did using the disposable chip brushes.

The more I do, the less I accomplish.
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-29-2016, 01:17 PM
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Default Supergrit pads?

Are those pads the "microfine rhinofinish" pads?

Originally Posted by kywoodchopper View Post
I have read articles and watched Youtube videos on finishing. Many have the title of quick & simple finishes. I have tried many of them. What I have found is for myself I could not use just one finish on all projects or all species of wood. For a light wood like maple some finishes make the wood look a yellow/green. I also mix wood species into one project so I don't stain anything. I have always heard that if God wanted maple to be dark He would have called it walnut.

My general finishing regiment is to sand with an orbital sander to 180 grit using sandpaper. I then switch to foam sanding disk that I get from Supergrit. I generally sand 180, 360 and occasionally to 500 with the foam pads. I have noticed that if I sand with a sanding block regardless of the grit going back and forth I get tiny scratch marks that I do not like. If I stop sanding at 180 or 220 on some of the tiger maple I don't like the way the fiber looks. I'm picky about how my finish looks.

After sanding I wipe the surface with mineral spirits - looking for defects. I look for scratch marks and glue residue. If I find any defects I decide how far back I need to go in selecting the correct starting sandpaper. Then apply mineral spirits again looking for defects.

I make a lot of wooden boxes. For the inside of the box I apply 2-coats of 50/50 thinned dewaxed shellac with denatured alcohol waiting about an hour between coats. I do not sand between coats. After the 2nd coat and waiting an hours, I sand with 500 grit foam pad on the orbital sander. I then apply a thin coat of wax - like Renaissance or Liberian Black Bison wax which have low odor. After 30 minutes or so I buff with lambs wool pad on orbital sander. While doing these steps and waiting for the finish to dry I make the top and bottom of the box.

For the outside of the box - it depends on the amount of time I have. Recently I was asked to make a casket for an infant and have it by the next day. On that one I applied 2-coats of cut shellac. Then sanded it with 500 grit foam pad and applied a coat of Lakeone Buffing wax with steel wool. After an hour I buffed it. Came out pretty good.

All of my finishes are applied with a 1/4 sheet of the blue paper shop towel or 1/2 sheet of Viva paper towel. Comes out to about 4" * 4" that I fold to about 2" * 2".

For mixing my materials I use 4 oz. plastic bottles that I get from Midwest Bottle Company. I order different color lids to color code what in the bottle plus I write on the side of the bottle the contents and date. I get the tiny paper cups that holds about 1 oz. (I think hospitals dispenses pills to patients in them) that I scoop up the finish from the cans to pour into the bottle instead of trying to pour it from the can. By mixing the finish in these bottles I don't have to keep opening the can of finish. I put it in the bottle and shake it.

For the outside of the box I apply mineral spirits to highlight any defects - either scratches or glue residue. If any found it is back to sanding and looking again for defects. If no defects found - one of the finishes that I like to use is I apply a light coats of 50/50 mineral spirits and boiled linseed oil (BLO). I wipe it on then wipe it off. I let it set for 24 hours. Before apply any new finishes I always look for defects. If I find any it is back to sanding, looking for defects and reapplying the mineral spirits / BLO finish.

After 24 hours I do not sand and I apply a coat of Zar semi-gloss polyurethane (oil base) mixed with about 25% mineral spirits. I wait about 12 hours and apply the 2nd coat. After another 12 hours I use 500 grit foam disk pad on the orbital sander to remove dust particles. Before applying each coat I always look for defects to see if I need a "do over". If I find a run in the finish, I may have to go back to a 180 grit foam pad to remove it. Then sand with the 350 foam pad and then pick up with the polyurethane. After the finish looks like it is good to go, I let the box set for several days.

Before applying a wax, I inspect it thoroughly because if I apply a wax then find a defect I have to remove the wax then the finish. I then apply a coat of wax (Lakeone Buffing Wax does a good job if you wipe off the excess as soon as you apply it. Otherwise you get streaks). I apply the wax with 4-0 steel wool and wipe off excess immediately. After an hour or so I buffer with lambs wool using the orbital sander. At times I will use one of the other wax and it comes out pretty good.

I hope this help folks.

Malcolm / Kentucky USA
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-25-2017, 06:34 AM
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Great Advice.
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