Sanding after final coat of Poly? - Page 2 - Router Forums
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post #11 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-17-2018, 10:07 AM
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Jim; I use the synthetic sanding pads for the fine stuff.
Also, adding wax before the poly has cured for a couple of days probably isn't a great idea. Any finish for that matter, Whatever the solvent was, it needs to escape ('solvent' in the chemistry sense).
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post #12 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-17-2018, 11:31 AM Thread Starter
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First off, thanks for the responses. I will try steel wool and paste on the backside of the Barn door and see how that looks after the poly is good and cured. I'll likely get some fine sand paper and use it with paste on the underside of the table and compare the 2 and go with the best for the sides that will show.

Secondly the different methods of finishing is endless which aids in confusion and difficulty choosing which method to use. I'll be the first to admit when I'm done sanding the finished project I am ready to move on to the next. Finishing, great finishing, takes knowledge, time, patience and a proven method. I found my problem.

If I had Sticks money I would just send it out to be finished and move on to the next project. However it looks like I will be allowing the time and choosing a method that will work for me. One that has a low amount of harmful fumes as the shop is attached to the house.

One thing that stuck with me during my recent search on finishing was a guy stating that he was just an average craftsman/carpenter but having a great looking finish made his project great.

[B“It’s not a mistake, it’s a design feature”][/B]
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post #13 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-17-2018, 04:15 PM
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I've read articles by some of the contributors of fine Woodworking saying that on a high dollar commission that they will often send the item out to a pro to be finished. It is that complex a task and the results from having it done right can be as important, or more important, than doing a stellar job of the build.

If you go with the water and et dry paper most hardware stores near me sell 400 and 600 grit silicon carbide wet dry paper. If your local store doesn't have any then go to an auto parts store that sells automotive paint and supplies. They will have it. Those papers are also useful to sharpen chisels and plane blades to a moderately sharp edge.
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Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #14 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-17-2018, 06:02 PM Thread Starter
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If you go with the water and et dry paper most hardware stores near me sell 400 and 600 grit silicon carbide wet dry paper. .
I picked up a variety wet pack today 220-320-400-600 they sold singles but didn't have anything after 600 except 1500 so not knowing grabbed it as well.

I have to get the door and table finished and out of the shop so I can start the bench that goes with it. Simply not enough room in the shop. It was a logistic challenge to do those 2 at the same time.

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post #15 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-17-2018, 06:38 PM
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I've had good luck sanding the next to last coat of poly with 320 0r 350 paper on a flexible pad. Then cleaning the surface very well and then applying the final coat of poly. I don't use water based finishes. I've never been happy with the results. When applying poly I use gloss poly for all coats with a very light sanding, then use satin poly for the final coat if I don't want the shine. don't want the high gloss.

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post #16 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-17-2018, 06:56 PM Thread Starter
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Jim; I use the synthetic sanding pads for the fine stuff.
.
I saw those at the hardware store today while after the fine wet/dry paper. May end up using them at some point. Also asked about the white scotch pads but they didn't have any.

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post #17 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-17-2018, 07:05 PM Thread Starter
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I've had good luck sanding the next to last coat of poly with 320 0r 350 paper on a flexible pad. Then cleaning the surface very well and then applying the final coat of poly. I don't use water based finishes. I've never been happy with the results. When applying poly I use gloss poly for all coats with a very light sanding, then use satin poly for the final coat if I don't want the shine. don't want the high gloss.

Charley
The last few projects I've been spraying water based poly with limited success as in no brush marks. Spraying because I had a HVLP gun that I hadn't used and a half gallon left of Minwax Clear Satin Water Based Oil-Modified Polyurethane I call it water based as clean up is with water.

After this project I need to pick a finishing method and stick with it as there have been some good ones mentioned and posted.

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post #18 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-18-2018, 08:41 AM
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When applying poly I use gloss poly for all coats with a very light sanding, then use satin poly for the final coat if I don't want the shine. don't want the high gloss.

Charley
I've read of that method before Charley, maybe here on the Forum years ago. If I remember right the reason for using all gloss finish on the buildup coats was that it gave better looking depth of finish. Is that your results? It was also suggested that gloss finishes are harder than semigloss and satin but I don't know if that was true.
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post #19 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-18-2018, 09:38 AM
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Yes, the final result of using clear for the first layers and then using the satin or semi gloss for the top layer does produce a nicer finish with more depth. Sanding the next to last coat removes any bumps or imperfections that would show in the final layer without the worry of breaking through the stain layer, so I've found that my end result is way better this way. I don't have spray capability, so all of my staining and finishing is done by wiping with a lint free cloth. I don't use brushes, except sometimes if applying shellac.
This works for me. Others may have more or less success with it. Maybe someday I'll have the clean space needed for spray finishing, but now I clean the shop well before starting, and then do finishing only until the project finishing is done, before making sawdust again.

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post #20 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-18-2018, 07:07 PM Thread Starter
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Default Table and Barn Door

I ended up using 600 grit for very light smoothing on both the door and table followed by a paste wax for a little shine and protection. For my finishing abilities the door came out ok and the table came out good. I got the door hung but the small table will have to watch TV until the bench that goes with it is ready.

Thank God they are out of the shop!
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