Outdoor finish in Florida - Page 2 - Router Forums
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post #11 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-24-2018, 02:28 PM Thread Starter
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Stick - I'll do that. The board will be delivered Monday, just before I leave for a visit with the grandkids. It'll be a couple of weeks but I'll let you know how it turns out. thanks for your help.
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post #12 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-26-2018, 12:05 AM
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I tried Teak oil with UV protection on some smoker handles I made. It did not stand up well to Texas sun. It was better than Tung oil but not as good as spar marine varnish.

I would say 2 years for Teak oil with UV. Spar varnish you can get 3 to 4 years.

Last edited by coxhaus; 05-26-2018 at 12:07 AM.
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post #13 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-27-2018, 01:58 PM Thread Starter
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Lee, Actually, spar varnish was my original choice, but, when I spoke to the guy who sold me the board, he said he used either Teak Oil or Tung Oil, whichever he can find cheaper. From my perspective, after the work I put into a project, a couple of extra buck for a better finish makes sense to me so the cheaper argument didn't work for me. That prompted me to do some research to see if Teak or Tung was the better choice. Going on line didn't help much, that's why I posted the question on the forum.

My hesitation at this point is how often I'm going to have to refinish the bench. Every few years is expected. Every six months won't work for me. Depending on were you live in Texas, your climate and mine could be very similar. I'm on the west coast of Florida about 9 miles straight line distance inland from the Gulf so besides sun we get a lot of high humidity. I'm actually less concerned about the sun since the piece will sit outside of my front door and that's a northern exposure so most of the sun light will be reflected light. Still has UV rays in it. I'm more concerned about the humidity and reducing he possibility of the mold growing on the wood.

I guess that, due to some travel, it'll anywhere from 3 to 4 weeks before I have to decide on the finish. At least now I have something to keep me up at night. :-)
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post #14 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-27-2018, 02:17 PM
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I lived in Tampa...
14 years...
now high altitude Colorado...
any film finish didn't/doesn't fare well in either location..
oil...
sleep well..

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
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post #15 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-28-2018, 03:00 PM Thread Starter
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Stick, Ok, you convinced me. With your experience living in Tampa I'll go with oil. Thanks.
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post #16 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-28-2018, 03:30 PM
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just make sure you use the real deal and not something that just says it is...
did you know there is no such thing ''Teak'' oil...
Teak oil is for teak, not of teak.... Teak oil, generally, is not much more than a marketing gimmick for amateurs.....
now..................
do we want BLO or Tung oil???
https://www.popularwoodworking.com/t...istory-and-use
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tung_oil

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
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post #17 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-29-2018, 09:39 AM Thread Starter
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AAAAAAaaahhhhh!!!! Ok, I'm calm now. I do know that Teak Oil is formulated for Teak, not from Teak. I was leaning towards Tung and had begun to shop around for it online before you introduce BLO in the mix, so to speak. However, after reading the two articles you listed I'm going with Tung Oil. I'll dilute pure Tung Oil 1:1 with Mineral Spirits for the first few coats until the wood stops absorbing it then go to straight oil for the last coat or 3. I will do my best to be sure each coat is dry before applying successive coats. I've read some horror stories of people who were in a hurry and ended up with a gummy mess that wouldn't dry. Should be an interesting experience. Since this was a very expensive board, I'll practice on a cutoff first. Time is not an issue so whether this takes a week or a month doesn't matter to me.

Quick update. The board arrived and measures 2 1/2 inches thick, 94" long and varies from 8" in the center to 13" at the ends. It's a reclaimed board, there are some screw holes in the bottom of it, so it's already flat with a uniform thickness. All I have to do, besides making the cuts for the end panels, is to sand off the old finish. After sanding I'll see if it absorbs the oil on a test piece which should help me determine if the existing finish is a film or oil. Either way, once I'm down to bare wood I'll go with the Tung oil.

If you think I said anything stupid in this post please let me know. Otherwise, once again, thanks for you advice.
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post #18 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-29-2018, 10:38 AM
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sanding happens AFTER you ''wash'' the old finish out of your slab....

Recipe for Fornby's or Hope's furniture stripper:
Equal parts of acetone, methanol (wood alcohol), methylene chloride and tolulene
soak or paint it on... little goes a long way... wrap/cover the object in a cotton towel and soak the towel... use a white one...
remove the towel and scrape the sludge of w. a plastic putty knife...
don't bother asking what happens if you use a synthetic fabric towel or one that has been dyed...

Always (paint/finish/oil formula/MSDS unknown) consider the probability of the paint being a lead and/or copper base being pretty good... it may fizz/boil/pop/what not a bit.... kinda like mixing Rice Krispies and Alka-Selzer together...

I trust you will be doing this out doors, in a breeze, while holding your breath and using chemical gloves ...
just never forget you are dealing with unknown paint/finish/oil.. small segment to start 1st..
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Solvents for Cleaning....pdf (30.0 KB, 15 views)
File Type: pdf Solvents And Thinners.pdf (27.6 KB, 25 views)

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
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post #19 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-29-2018, 10:40 AM
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What kind of finish is on there already, Barry? Varnish, or something else?
You might want to try using a heat gun and scraper first. If it's something like varnish, you're going to gum up a lot of sandpaper (or belts).

*Ahhh...Stick beat me to actually posting. If you're going the chemical route try plain old lacquer thinner, and a scraper...and a vapour mask.

Last edited by DaninVan; 05-29-2018 at 10:45 AM. Reason: Added text
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post #20 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-29-2018, 10:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barry747 View Post
AAAAAAaaahhhhh!!!! Ok, I'm calm now.
I'll dilute pure Tung Oil 1:1 with Mineral Spirits
keep reading...

.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf What is the difference between mineral spirits, paint thinner, and turpentine.pdf (138.7 KB, 503 views)
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This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
Stick486 is offline  
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