High gloss sanding tip - Page 3 - Router Forums
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post #21 of 34 (permalink) Old 06-14-2018, 04:42 PM
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Playing on it? Seriously?? Sure hope the Scotch doesn't leave rings!
My understanding is that the only things allowed on the table are elbows and chessmen... here's a link to the thread on the build

http://www.routerforums.com/show-n-t...-table-ii.html

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post #22 of 34 (permalink) Old 06-14-2018, 04:51 PM
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The last time I polished a guitar I used a lambs wool pad in my drill press. I used to have a right angle polisher that I used on dining tables, conference tables, etc. but I don't have that now.

If I do the French polish correctly it won't need sanding or polishing. So far I've had to sand it back a few times. We'll see...

David
That presents an interesting point. Since this is a French polish schedule. The finish, is literally the finish. I've never done a true french polish on a
project. This is indeed, something I need to learn more about first hand. I'm still looking into a guitar build for my SIL, that may present the perfect opportunity.

I had a right angle polisher, but it wasn't a random orbit model. Once I got the ROP,
The difference in what gets accomplished between the two is night and day!!

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post #23 of 34 (permalink) Old 06-14-2018, 07:41 PM Thread Starter
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I've never used one but what I read tells me that if/when I'm ready that's what I'll get. If I do the French polish correctly, which is the key term here, then I won't be doing any sanding or polishing at all. At least not polishing with Meguiars and a buffing wheel. In a true and properly done French polish those things are not even on the table, they just simply aren't a part of the process. I'm getting there - got past the steep learning curve today and into a proper technique and the difference is night and day compared to the way I was doing it yesterday.

This isn't the final sheen and I can still see marks in the shellac so those will have to come out. But it's so much better than what I was doing and I think I'm on the correct path to now get the finish and sheen I want.
High gloss sanding tip-004-french-polish-back-better-technique.jpg

High gloss sanding tip-005-french-polish-back-better-technique.jpg

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post #24 of 34 (permalink) Old 06-14-2018, 08:41 PM
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Overlapping figure 8???

If/when the time comes, give Griots Garage ROP a look. Designed specifically for achieving high end finishes in cars...not much difference on wood. Everything they carry is designed to work together...
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post #25 of 34 (permalink) Old 06-14-2018, 09:12 PM
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Several years one of our members Derek Willis posted what I thought was a great thread on finishes, including a nice piece on French Polishes... So I went back and looked it up...

http://www.routerforums.com/woodwork...ek-willis.html

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post #26 of 34 (permalink) Old 06-14-2018, 09:19 PM Thread Starter
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I've bought from Griot's before but never any power tools. I just watched the video on that polisher and it's pretty sweet. Thanks for telling me about it.

David

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post #27 of 34 (permalink) Old 06-15-2018, 10:11 AM
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Yikes! And I thought I was doing serious sanding when I used 320 grit. That is a beautiful guitar, David, and your detailed sanding tutorial is great. I wish I had the patience (and skill) to do work like that. Fortunately, that level of finish isn't necessary for most of my projects.
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post #28 of 34 (permalink) Old 06-15-2018, 01:31 PM
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My personal experience about doubling the sanding time when changing grits doesn't hold up. I do a lot of high gloss sanding going from 220 to 4000 grit on 7+ coats of poly finish. I do enough of this on the same thing that I built an adapter so I can mount my random orbit sander to my CNC. I programmed a toolpath to follow a spiral path (because it's a round object). The path starts from the center, goes to the outside and then back to the center where it lifts the sander and I replace the pad for the next grit. Because the CNC is doing the sanding, this means I have the exact same time per grit on the same path with the same speed and pressure. I do not have to double the time when switching from 1000 to 2000, for example; the same time removes the scratches from the previous run. My observation may only hold true because I am sanding with a CNC and not by hand.
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post #29 of 34 (permalink) Old 06-15-2018, 04:11 PM
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Will that work on a curved plane? The guitar surface isn't flat across its field.
Pics would be great!
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post #30 of 34 (permalink) Old 06-15-2018, 04:21 PM Thread Starter
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My personal experience about doubling the sanding time when changing grits doesn't hold up. I do a lot of high gloss sanding going from 220 to 4000 grit on 7+ coats of poly finish. I do enough of this on the same thing that I built an adapter so I can mount my random orbit sander to my CNC. I programmed a toolpath to follow a spiral path (because it's a round object). The path starts from the center, goes to the outside and then back to the center where it lifts the sander and I replace the pad for the next grit. Because the CNC is doing the sanding, this means I have the exact same time per grit on the same path with the same speed and pressure. I do not have to double the time when switching from 1000 to 2000, for example; the same time removes the scratches from the previous run. My observation may only hold true because I am sanding with a CNC and not by hand.
Interesting setup. I'd also like to see what you're doing though I understand the concept.

I find the items I sand just work far better to sand longer with each successive grit. Obviously, it may not always be necessary. But I do it and people like my finishes.

David
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