I haven’t heard back from customer service of the manufacturer of Zar. So, after reading all of your comments, and doing some additional research, it’s pretty clear that I shouldn’t be applying finish in the environment in my garage at this time of year. For the next few weeks I won’t get any shop time due to family visits until mid-July. When I do get back, this is what I’m planning to do.
While still in the shop I’ll sand the top using 320 grit with my ROS until the remaining finish is even.
I’ll bring the top into the house and put it in our spare bedroom and give it a couple of days to acclimate. Inside temp is 78 – 80 degrees and humidity is 45-50%.
I have a fresh can of Poly and I’ll apply a coat, without diluting it, with a new foam brush going slowly and only tipping off once if necessary. I’ll overlap coats. I’ll then close the door for an hour or so. After it sets up, I’ll open the window and put a box fan in it to draw the fumes out of the house (along with all that conditioned air, sigh).
After that, it’s a question of how long to wait before I recoat and, depending on how much dust got onto the surface, do I sand before recoating. If I have to sand, do I do it by hand or ROS and what grit?
I’ll apply another coat the same way.
As long as my original sanding in the shop doesn’t take the finish off to bare wood, I would add one more thinned coat after a sanding to knock down the dust nibs. Again, for a final sanding before the final coat what grit and by hand or ROS? I do have both gray and white scotch brite pads if they would be better to use before the final coat.
After the final coat I'll wait a few weeks then either paper bag or buff out any dust nibs with a white scotch brite pad. Then I'll add two coats of Johnson's paste wax.
Does this sound like the right approach? I’m totally open to suggestions.
If you have an open mind, youíll generally find that youíll learn the most from the people who say the things you least want to hear.