Finishing is finishing me off - Page 3 - Router Forums
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post #21 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-12-2019, 04:53 PM Thread Starter
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First Name: Barry
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I haven’t heard back from customer service of the manufacturer of Zar. So, after reading all of your comments, and doing some additional research, it’s pretty clear that I shouldn’t be applying finish in the environment in my garage at this time of year. For the next few weeks I won’t get any shop time due to family visits until mid-July. When I do get back, this is what I’m planning to do.

While still in the shop I’ll sand the top using 320 grit with my ROS until the remaining finish is even.

I’ll bring the top into the house and put it in our spare bedroom and give it a couple of days to acclimate. Inside temp is 78 – 80 degrees and humidity is 45-50%.

I have a fresh can of Poly and I’ll apply a coat, without diluting it, with a new foam brush going slowly and only tipping off once if necessary. I’ll overlap coats. I’ll then close the door for an hour or so. After it sets up, I’ll open the window and put a box fan in it to draw the fumes out of the house (along with all that conditioned air, sigh).

After that, it’s a question of how long to wait before I recoat and, depending on how much dust got onto the surface, do I sand before recoating. If I have to sand, do I do it by hand or ROS and what grit?

I’ll apply another coat the same way.

As long as my original sanding in the shop doesn’t take the finish off to bare wood, I would add one more thinned coat after a sanding to knock down the dust nibs. Again, for a final sanding before the final coat what grit and by hand or ROS? I do have both gray and white scotch brite pads if they would be better to use before the final coat.

After the final coat I'll wait a few weeks then either paper bag or buff out any dust nibs with a white scotch brite pad. Then I'll add two coats of Johnson's paste wax.

Does this sound like the right approach? I’m totally open to suggestions.
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post #22 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 07:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Barry747 View Post
I havenít heard back from customer service of the manufacturer of Zar. So, after reading all of your comments, and doing some additional research, itís pretty clear that I shouldnít be applying finish in the environment in my garage at this time of year. For the next few weeks I wonít get any shop time due to family visits until mid-July. When I do get back, this is what Iím planning to do.

While still in the shop Iíll sand the top using 320 grit with my ROS until the remaining finish is even.

Iíll bring the top into the house and put it in our spare bedroom and give it a couple of days to acclimate. Inside temp is 78 Ė 80 degrees and humidity is 45-50%.

I have a fresh can of Poly and Iíll apply a coat, without diluting it, with a new foam brush going slowly and only tipping off once if necessary. Iíll overlap coats. Iíll then close the door for an hour or so. After it sets up, Iíll open the window and put a box fan in it to draw the fumes out of the house (along with all that conditioned air, sigh).

After that, itís a question of how long to wait before I recoat and, depending on how much dust got onto the surface, do I sand before recoating. If I have to sand, do I do it by hand or ROS and what grit?

Iíll apply another coat the same way.

As long as my original sanding in the shop doesnít take the finish off to bare wood, I would add one more thinned coat after a sanding to knock down the dust nibs. Again, for a final sanding before the final coat what grit and by hand or ROS? I do have both gray and white scotch brite pads if they would be better to use before the final coat.

After the final coat I'll wait a few weeks then either paper bag or buff out any dust nibs with a white scotch brite pad. Then I'll add two coats of Johnson's paste wax.

Does this sound like the right approach? Iím totally open to suggestions.

I'm not a fan of foam brushes. I tried them many years ago, but was unhappy with it. IMO, a pro quality brush is the way to go. Otherwise, you have a plan. Keep in mind that poly doesn't bite into previous coats. Your poly will tell you the max drying time before having to sand subsequent coats. Personally, I apply coats within the "no sand" timeline, but I am spraying with a professional gun.

As far as the final buff is concerned, go to an auto paint supply store and get an assortment of liquid machine buffing compounds. Get a bonnet for your ROS, if one is available, and buff with the compound. Works great on poly. Just be sure the finish is fully cured.

Since you are not used to using things like buffing compounds and and bonnets, you might want to sand and finish a piece of wood that you don't mind messing up. Experiment with that. It's not hard to do, but you have to take care with the buffer to keep from buffing through or heating up the finish too much. Most important: don't apply pressure, keep the buffer moving and take special care at the edges. You can buff through at an edge before you know it.

Gary
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