What Polyurethane do you use - Router Forums
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-05-2019, 08:30 AM Thread Starter
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Default What Polyurethane do you use

Like the title says. I'm looking to see what polyurethane you use. I have been using the minwax fast drying clear gloss. I like it but it was the first one I grabbed when I first started the woodworking / CNC stuff. Wondering if there is something better for a similar price. This usually takes me 3 coats with light sanding in between to get the shine I want.

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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-05-2019, 11:06 AM
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Minwax, Varathane, or Benjamin Moore. I'm trying to avoid fast drying paints and finishes these days. Way back when all paints took from 16 to 24 hours to dry the finishes turned out better and that's because the finish had time for the surface tension in it to pull the surface level before it skinned over. I used some white enamel from Benjamin Moore that had a 16 hour drying time to paint a night stand I made for my wife and the finish turned out beautifully despite a less than stellar spray job on my part. I got it a little runny in a few spots and the paint leveled the runs out before it dried.
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-05-2019, 11:53 AM Thread Starter
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Minwax, Varathane, or Benjamin Moore. I'm trying to avoid fast drying paints and finishes these days. Way back when all paints took from 16 to 24 hours to dry the finishes turned out better and that's because the finish had time for the surface tension in it to pull the surface level before it skinned over. I used some white enamel from Benjamin Moore that had a 16 hour drying time to paint a night stand I made for my wife and the finish turned out beautifully despite a less than stellar spray job on my part. I got it a little runny in a few spots and the paint leveled the runs out before it dried.
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Thanks for the info

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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-05-2019, 01:03 PM
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I'm trying to avoid fast drying paints and finishes these days.
Yep, me too. I normally even allow any glueups with Titebond II to set overnight, even tho I know I could work with them in an hour or so. So letting a finish dry overnight is definitely no problem with me. Always have something else to work on in the meantime, so no biggie at all. It's not that the finishes dry fast so much as I feel the fast dry finishes have less quality.
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-05-2019, 04:17 PM
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I like Varathane oil based clear gloss poly. But, it's a fast dry and has an amber cast. (Not a biggie for my stuff) For a crystal clear finish, Varathane's water based is very good.
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-05-2019, 07:42 PM
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I use Minwax Oil Modified Polyurethane and spray it on with a HVLP spray gun. I re-finished our kitchen table and it was like a layer of glass... I couldn't believe I did it. The following review is not mine but is written well.

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I have been a furniture maker for 40 years. I have used many products and after seeing another pro use this in a LVHP ( compressor ) spray gun. I was convinced. I use a very inexpensive 30.00 sprayer with a 2.0 tip. The first coats need to be very dry ... also fogged on . 2-3 coats dry and then sand with 320 lightly ..... then and only then can you begin to build coats. You can sand in 30 minutes if you are in the 70+ degree range. It does not load the paper and sands perfectly. No lacquer thinner to buy for clean up. I rinsed everything out ( water ) and then fill the gun cup with water put clamp on the trigger and walk away. I still cannot believe this product is this good ... but it is. I do not know the hardness figures to compare to solvent material .
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-06-2019, 07:33 AM
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Chad,

I use General Finish Arm-R-Seal Satin. I purchase it from Rockler. Last year I started putting on two coats of Gloss and the final coat of Satin. A woodworker at Rockler gave me this advise. If you look at the Gloss in the can, it is almost clear. The Satin is more cloudy because of the additive that produces satin finish. By putting on two coats of clear, more of the wood grain shows through. Also, most of my projects are made using Walnut.

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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-06-2019, 10:05 AM
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I have used Zar oil-base poly for 20 or more years. I mix about 50/50 with paint cleanup mineral spirits (stronger than regular mineral spirits), and apply with 1/4 of a blue paper shop towel folded into 1/4s. I like the results and get no runs. It take more coats since they are light coats, but I'm retired and have no place to go so I can wait to apply more coats. Malcolm / Kentucky USA
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-06-2019, 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Marco View Post
"SPRAY IT"
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Did I miss something? What is this guy spraying that takes water cleanup?

I've been thinking of trying a new finish for my canes. Right now they are getting several coats of thinned Titebond II. Dries in minutes, and can put several coats on in not long a time frame. Not sure how old my test cane is, but the finish is holding up pretty darn well. Especially considering that when I go somewhere it is in the bed of my pickup, rain, shine, snow, sleet, whatever. It doesn't get wiped off either. Like I said, test cane. If I do try something new, I'm going to go with water based.
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Last edited by JOAT; 12-06-2019 at 10:52 AM.
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-08-2019, 06:05 PM
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Theo, you didn't miss anything. I didn't mention that Minwax Oil Modified Polyurethane is water based and cleans up with water. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Minwax-Oil-...-oz/1000826362

It comes in Satin, Semi Gloss and Gloss. I have only used the Satin and it does add some amber color to the finish. It dries relatively quick and you can get the coats you need in a reasonable amount of time.
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