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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-29-2012, 03:50 PM Thread Starter
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Default Paint over poly

A few years ago, I built a two door cabinet and finished it with minwax rub in poly, about five coats. I now want to paint it black. Can I just prime with a latex primer, then paint, with no fear of peeling?
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-29-2012, 06:11 PM
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I have always heard that after it totally cures, even poly won't stick to poly. An isolation coat of shellac, maybe? I'd scuff sand it first, though.

I have found that hand tools are the best choice when I want to make mistakes at a slower rate of speed.

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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-29-2012, 08:42 PM Thread Starter
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google confirms not an easy process as I was hoping.
How To Paint Over Polyurethane
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-29-2012, 08:47 PM
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-30-2012, 06:55 AM
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You will have to scuff it with sandpaper then use Kilz or Zinnsers 123 then you can paint over the primer.
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-30-2012, 08:08 AM
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Use a shellac primer (tinted) after a light sanding of the cabinet doors - doing the same thing in Mahogany. Shellac primer is twice the price. Home Depot and Wal-Mart are the same price and a quart goes a long way. Do not try to spray it. The other option is to take the doors to a auto body shop and sprayed with an epoxy - probably cheaper to buy new cabinets.

Good luck,
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-30-2012, 02:17 PM
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Question What is a good Vertical Glue

Happy New Year to All.
I have a few long vertical joints to make. All need to be glued and clamped at the same time. All the glues I've tried, all want to run down and drip off by the time I get ready to clamp. Then after all is clamped the whole assembly then will be screwed. All the big box stores say Liquid Nails or a Lock Tite type glue. I've just never been a big fan of that type of glue. I know if anyone knows it would be one of you guys. Thanks a Bunch.
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-30-2012, 03:08 PM
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Gene; the advantages of the construction type (Liquid Nails, PL etc) is that they work on wet lumber, in the cold, and under really adverse conditions. They're intended for framing construction, not cabinetry.
They eliminate floor squeaking when applied to subfloor-joist contact at the time of assembly (and even after the fact on old floors, when squeezed into the points of contact). They also add substantially to the structural strength of sheer walls; the walls can't wrack.
If I was building in a tornado prone area, I'd use that stuff on everything!
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-31-2012, 06:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaninVan View Post
Gene; the advantages of the construction type (Liquid Nails, PL etc) is that they work on wet lumber, in the cold, and under really adverse conditions. They're intended for framing construction, not cabinetry.
They eliminate floor squeaking when applied to subfloor-joist contact at the time of assembly (and even after the fact on old floors, when squeezed into the points of contact). They also add substantially to the structural strength of sheer walls; the walls can't wrack.
If I was building in a tornado prone area, I'd use that stuff on everything!
Thanks Dan, I know I put this question in the wrong place. I released it after I hit the post button. I'm still looking for a glue that don't run off. Thanks Again.
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