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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-24-2013, 01:21 PM Thread Starter
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Default Oil finish for a jewelry box

I am about to start the finish process for a jewelry box for a new daughter-in-law. The base is cherry, (finger joint construction) and the top and lining of the box is walnut. I and bought a 1/2 pint of tung oil (clear) and didn't care for it on test scraps of both cherry and walnut. I would like an opinion from members on using Watco oil. Maybe Watco cherry or something to give it a darker finish than clear tung. Years ago I made a cradle out of cherry and if memory serves me I finished it with Watco cherry. It was about 25 years ago. I do remember sanding it wet with the Watco about three times 300 and 500 wet/dry sand paper and I plan something similar unless a response indicated another approach.

Thanks in advance

P.S. This is my first time using my Veritas fence and sled on a Veritas steel table for finger joint construction... A real learning experience!
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-24-2013, 06:34 PM
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Not a clue on Watco.
But I am back to trying a Titebond II finish for my canes, and other items I make. Thin 50/50 with water, apply thin coats, preferably with a brush - comes out much better that way, at least four coats. Gives a nice smooth sort of amber finish. I had done this some years ago, then got to using water-base poly, the oil base stinks too much. And finding I am happier with the Titebond II results.

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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-24-2013, 07:20 PM Thread Starter
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Titebond II??? I thought that is glue!
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-24-2013, 09:31 PM
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Originally Posted by keithet View Post
Titebond II??? I thought that is glue!
It is glue. But it still makes a nice finish on some things. I called the company long ago, and they said that some sculptors, with wood sculptures outside, had applied several coats of Titebond as a finish, and they were holding up well.

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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-25-2013, 12:33 AM
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Watco Danish Oil is made from a blend of penetrating oil and varnish that stains, seals and protects in "one" solution. It comes in different stain colors.

You should slean with mineral spirits before applying and let dry (remove any oils).

It's made from mineral spirits, vegetable oil, linseed oil and varnish resins, then stain pigments. It takes a while to dry (like a lot of linseed oil based finishes), but soaks into the wood and dries "in" the wood, toughening up in the wood. You usually wipe or paint it on until it's flooded (won't soak in any more). Wait 30 minutes, then reapply. 15 minutes after the second coat, wipe off any that is not soaked in (clean). Some people put on a third coat the same way as the second. Takes about 10 hours of drying to be usable or handle-able.

When it dries (about 3 days) it will have a deep look to it with a hard silky fell to it. It will darken the wood, even if you are using "natural" color and are not meaning to.

You can put a polyurethane coat over it, but you have to wait for it to dry at least 72 hours before doing that. Other wise the poly coat won't lay right.

I know a lot of people who like that finish. Being how it works and where it gets hard, that would be similar in characteristics with Theo's method, where the thinned down glue soaks in and gets hard. (I've used that also.)

Notes- Some people it irritates their skin on contact. It gives off lots of petroleum odors (needs open ventilation) and it is very highly flammable. (Watch how you store your rags.) You can clean up your brushes and such with mineral spirits or paint thinner.

Things do not glue bond well to it after this finish is applied, so if you have plans to glue something to it...

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Last edited by MAFoElffen; 11-25-2013 at 12:55 AM.
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-25-2013, 03:44 AM
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You can allso use plain boiled linseedoil. Doesn't smell as bad as Watco but doesn't dry as fast because the lack of mineral spirits. Work's basicly as Mike described how the Watco Danish Oil does. Isn't as easy to use as Watco if it is 100% boiled linseedoil. Try first to scrap wood so you see how it works. To make it easyer to apply I have made a mixture of 30% salad oil and 70% boiled linseed oil.
Linseed oil dry's thru oxidation and light. It won't dry in a space/place without windows and ventilation

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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-25-2013, 04:10 AM
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LOL. Esko is right about it taking longer... I remember the first time I used pure linseed oil. I kept checking on it for about 3 days and it didn't seem to dry or cure. It was still oily, slimy and wet. I really thought I screwed my project up and that I would have to strip it and start over. After all the work on it, I was hoping I could still salvage it.

I went on to something else and just left it be in disgust. I thought I would never use that as a finish again! About a week later I went back to it, thinking I would start stripping it... It was cured and beautiful!

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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-25-2013, 07:04 AM
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I don't use those expensive oils. I make a lot of jewelry boxes and use lemon oil. When it is dry then put 4 or 5 coats of shellac.
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-25-2013, 07:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tiny View Post
I have made a mixture of 30% salad oil and 70% boiled linseed oil.
I have also used new cooking oils, they don't do badly either, I've got an ugly rocker I made probably 10-15 years ago, and used cooking oil on it. Still doing quite well.

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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-25-2013, 07:52 AM
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For jewellery boxes, of which I've made many, I use either high gloss rattle can lacquer which is ready for the next coat in about fifteen minutes, four or five coats with a very light sanding before the final coat. The other finish is Danish oil, five coats with between one half day and a full day between coats, no sanding until a few days after the final coat when I rub down using 0000 wire wool lubricated with wax polish, the more rubbing the higher the gloss! This procedure gives a beautiful patina and darkens the wood, it's great for projects that are likely to become heirlooms.

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