How to Touch Up Wood-Floor Finishes - Router Forums
 
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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old 12-13-2013, 02:48 PM Thread Starter
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Default How to Touch Up Wood-Floor Finishes

Modern wood-floor finishes can take quite a bit of abuse, but accidents do happen. You can try to camouflage scratches and other minor damage on an otherwise beautiful floor. If the results don't satisfy you or if you can't make certain areas blend in, a screening and overcoat may help. Some situations require complete refinishing.
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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old 12-14-2013, 02:15 PM
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Although I probably shortened my life by breathing its fumes, I had wonderful results by "Restor.A.Finish" by Howard Products. I applied it with XXXX-grade steel wool to oak kitchen cabinets that were worn and which sometimes had wet wash clothes hung over the doors. I applied them to badly scratched doors and furniture. If it hadn't worked, I would have had to sand and re-finish.

I am serious about the fumes. Only apply this stuff when the weather allows and you can open all of the windows.
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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old 12-14-2013, 10:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jessicaneger78 View Post
Modern wood-floor finishes can take quite a bit of abuse, but accidents do happen. You can try to camouflage scratches and other minor damage on an otherwise beautiful floor. If the results don't satisfy you or if you can't make certain areas blend in, a screening and overcoat may help. Some situations require complete refinishing.
Although the above statements are true, the narrative is disconnected with the title of the thread. Your post does little tell tell anyone here anything about "How To touch up floors." Nor does it shed light on how to fill scratches, how to camoufage with stains or otherwise do a minor repair on a floor finish. Nor does it shed light on refinshing a floor.

I know how I do minor repairs. Usually I'll wipe the scratch with stain to color-match then with some thinned finish. If a deep scratch or gouge, then I'll fill with a repair filler, then stain. Sometimes I'll use a stain pen marker. Sometimes If I have a color that is close, I'll use a laminate scratch filler (comes in colors in tubes.)

Sometimes if you see the scratch happen (new) and it hasn't had time to be there a while yet and collect dirt in it, then you can try to rub it out with a quarter... then rub a thin coat of paste wax into it. Sometimes you can do the ame with a walnut shell, which will also add walnut oils to the scratch.

On minor wear-through's, warm up the room, clean, light sand, stain if needed and finish. (Using extra-fine sandpaper or steel wool to gently buff the scratches or chipped areas, then use a cotton swab or small paintbrush to restain wood. Always easier to do that than to strip and do a patch, I always have problems doing that to a "patch" area, where you strip just an area completely down, then try blending that in.

Even waterbased floor finishes seem to have some smell to them until dried, but are less toxic fumes.

Anyone want to add to this (please)?

"Don't worry, I saw this work in a cartoon once."
"Usually learning skills and tooling involves a progression of logical steps."

Last edited by MAFoElffen; 12-14-2013 at 10:34 PM.
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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old 12-15-2013, 12:03 AM
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Very curious. The OP has started 3 threads about very diverse subjects with no specific problems or solutions. The OP's personal profile says she (?) is Canadian but has a business in New York state. However, if you go to the business' website it says "Proudly serving Orange County, California". That is a lot of geography to cover. It would be good if Jessicaneger78 would respond to the questions we have about the posts that have been started.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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