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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-22-2014, 11:06 AM Thread Starter
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Default Sanding chips

I'm making stave drums and I'm struggling to sand them. I've rounded off the outside with a router. I'm left with a few lines (which aren't too deep) and some small chips (approx 0.5mm deep). I'm using P40 sandpaper (on a block going with the grain) and it's taking me ages to get anywhere. Are there any better ways?

I have a Bosch sander (with the moving plates). Is this likely to work or is it likely to cause more problems?

The wood I'm working with is Oak and pine (two shells). I haven't tried much with the pine yet, it's the oak that's the problem at the moment.
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-22-2014, 12:04 PM
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Sorry Peter,this is a hard lesson for a woodworker to learn,you probably will have to bit the bullet and hand sand it.
Lesson here is be more careful not cut to deep with round over bits, when dealing with hardwoods, always test your cut on scrap before making the finished cut.
The fewer mistakes you make building it the less sending you have to do in the end.
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-22-2014, 12:43 PM Thread Starter
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This was a straight bit, it was the outside of the shell, not the bearing edge. My last pass was very small (probably less than 1mm), my others were fairly small too, no more than a few mm.
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-22-2014, 01:29 PM
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Some hardwoods can be prone to chip out. Try not to not to work into the grain, try to work in the same direction. That should help some. The pine should be way more forgiving that way but it tends to plug sandpaper up because of the resin in the wood but at least it is much easier to work.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-22-2014, 03:58 PM Thread Starter
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I'm going to try my sanding machine (a simple palm sander thing). It should help to start with and then I can do it by hand once I'm closer. I don't know how long it's going to take me.
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-23-2014, 07:50 AM
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I would use an orbital sander to start with and Blueline sandpaper which will cut better and last longer than the 3M or Norton products
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-23-2014, 01:22 PM Thread Starter
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Good news, I've got rid of the chips. I used my router, and there aren't any chips now. I took off tiny amounts and moved it very slowly. There are a lot of rough patches but they are with the grain and I don't think they could be avoided.

There are a few burn marks too, but I can't feel them so hopefully these will sand off easily. It's very hot today, so that probably didn't help.

How smooth should it be after sanding? Should it be completely smooth, should I still be able to feel the grain or does it depend on what finish I want? I'm hoping to have a lacquer finish.
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-23-2014, 05:07 PM
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We will need pictures.
My maple shell was completely smooth.

For my maple shell I messed up the finish a number of times. I used my bench top belt sander to get back to just wood.

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  • Cursing free since 10/27/12 at 3:59 pm.
  • ...it happened in Everett, WA USA
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-23-2014, 11:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rwl7532 View Post
We will need pictures.
My maple shell was completely smooth.

For my maple shell I messed up the finish a number of times. I used my bench top belt sander to get back to just wood.
After all that fuss I just went with Watco and wax.

  • Accident free since 10/27/12 at 3:58 pm.
  • Cursing free since 10/27/12 at 3:59 pm.
  • ...it happened in Everett, WA USA
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-29-2014, 02:46 PM Thread Starter
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I've been sanding for a week now. The burns and chips are all gone. I'm now left with a few rough grainy bits. I think it may be the pores. I'm doing 120G now and hoping to get the whole thing smooth, and then I'll work up to 240G.
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