Milwax Stain, how to seal? - Router Forums
 
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 10-21-2014, 02:09 PM Thread Starter
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Default Milwax Stain, how to seal?

Joshua here!
As stated in my introduction, I am quite new to woodworking. I am building a bunk bed for my younger brother and his two children. (Pointless background information follows): One of his children is deathly afraid of heights, even 2 feet off the ground he cried and screams uncontrollably. His daughter isn't even two so we have decided to do something interesting with these beds! Below is a picture of where I got my idea. He is going to sleep on the top! And his children will be in two toddler beds below. His bed will be a twin size. I have very limited space for them so this is my only option.
I understand I have already done some stuff wrong, but currently tight on money for this project.
Here goes.
I purchased 2 4x4 beams of dougfir and sanded them to 320 with a random orbit sander with a ceramic 320 grit pad.
I went 80-220- then 320. Not sure why... just seemed right at the time.
The beams turned out very smooth, maybe too smooth.
Due stupidity, I grabbed the milwax brand of stain. I put one VERY light coat on. I let it sit for 20 Hours at the time of writing this with a fan on it over night.
I would like to seal it now to give it that protective coat, however all I have in my shop is some rustolium lacquer spray. I would like to use something better, maybe thicker. I have my doubts about this lacquer spray, I tested it out on a piece of pine i stained and i could flake the lacquer off with my finger nail.
Here are my beams, I router two of the edges for specific purposes. What sealer should I use? I don't want to ruin these beams.
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 10-21-2014, 02:58 PM
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If the stain was oil based that could be why the lacquer won't stick. You may have to use an oil based varnish. It would be a good idea to check with a paint store. They should tell you what's compatible with your stain.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 10-21-2014, 05:48 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cherryville Chuck View Post
If the stain was oil based that could be why the lacquer won't stick. You may have to use an oil based varnish. It would be a good idea to check with a paint store. They should tell you what's compatible with your stain.
Would Polyurethane work?
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 10-21-2014, 11:43 PM
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Oil based will for sure. Water based might be compatible. It depends on the stain. The chemistry in finishes has changed quite a bit in the last few years and the answers aren't as simple as they once were. The directions on the can might say, you may be able to find the info on the manufacturers website, or where you bought the stain.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 10-27-2014, 02:34 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cherryville Chuck View Post
Oil based will for sure. Water based might be compatible. It depends on the stain. The chemistry in finishes has changed quite a bit in the last few years and the answers aren't as simple as they once were. The directions on the can might say, you may be able to find the info on the manufacturers website, or where you bought the stain.
Thanks a bunch sir.
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 10-27-2014, 09:57 AM
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You're welcome.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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