Attaching solid wood to benchtop sides - Router Forums
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post #1 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-15-2015, 11:14 PM Thread Starter
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Default Attaching solid wood to benchtop sides

I got a bench top 60x29. The top layer of plywood is 3/4 oak, the bottom 3/4 sanded one side. So about 1.5 thick

I want to put oak bands around it. 3/4 thick, 1.5 H. The wood should contact and expand up and down, I believe. So how should I attach it.

Since the glue would run down and squish, I can't just glue just the center. If I glue it all the way, is movement going to be an issue?

Attach it flush for the top, so movement is forced down??

Brad nail it in the center of the wood? Though not sure if that would be strong enough. I could counter sink some wood screws in the center.

This is just for a reloading bench, so it doesn't have to be to nice, but it is practice. Plus I want to avoid metal that could scratch stuff.

Glue is drying right now between the sheets of plywood.
Thanks for help.
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post #2 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-15-2015, 11:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zerk View Post
I got a bench top 60x29. The top layer of plywood is 3/4 oak, the bottom 3/4 sanded one side. So about 1.5 thick

I want to put oak bands around it. 3/4 thick, 1.5 H. The wood should contact and expand up and down, I believe. So how should I attach it.

Since the glue would run down and squish, I can't just glue just the center. If I glue it all the way, is movement going to be an issue?

Attach it flush for the top, so movement is forced down??

Brad nail it in the center of the wood? Though not sure if that would be strong enough. I could counter sink some wood screws in the center.

This is just for a reloading bench, so it doesn't have to be to nice, but it is practice. Plus I want to avoid metal that could scratch stuff.

Glue is drying right now between the sheets of plywood.
Thanks for help.
spline it...
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post #3 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-16-2015, 12:45 AM
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If you are installing it on a bench in a control environment do not worry about it glue it add few bard nails maybe and enjoy 1 1/2" wide will not move enough to worry about.
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post #4 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-16-2015, 05:42 AM
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If you are installing it on a bench in a control environment do not worry about it glue it add few bard nails maybe and enjoy 1 1/2" wide will not move enough to worry about.
What he said. Oak only moves about 1/8 inch per foot of width. So, your 1.5 inch wide strip should only move about 1/64 or so. The glue will allow that much creep. I've never had problems with movement in cross-glued pieces up to about 3 inches wide. Also, I'll bet the plywood shrinks and swells in thickness with humidity changes - it's just that we never use plywood thick enough to notice.

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post #5 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-16-2015, 07:04 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks. Hopefully finish this project it has gone on longer then it should.
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post #6 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-16-2015, 12:01 PM
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What he said. Oak only moves about 1/8 inch per foot of width. So, your 1.5 inch wide strip should only move about 1/64 or so. The glue will allow that much creep. I've never had problems with movement in cross-glued pieces up to about 3 inches wide. Also, I'll bet the plywood shrinks and swells in thickness with humidity changes - it's just that we never use plywood thick enough to notice.
We have probably built hundreds of feet of countertops with 3/4" thick x 1-1/2" wide oak or birch strip glued on the plywood edge with Titebond - never had any failure or complaint. The photo shows the edging on the 25 year old countertop in my wife's kitchen. Most were finished with lacquer, this was finished with conversion varnish and looks like the day it was installed.

Countertops are 2 layers of luan (top and build-up), with the build-up glued and stapled. Take care lining up the build-up when installing so there is minimal sanding required to get a smooth surface for gluing. Spread a very thin seal coat of Titebond on the plywood and let it dry then spread a nice second coat on and clamp the oak in place, should have no problems.
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post #7 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-16-2015, 12:06 PM
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I don't usually build fine furniture and I admit my knowledge of wood movement and its issues is limited. However I did make some built-in bookcases which used plywood for the lower cabinet tops with 3/4" x 1 1/2" thick hardwood trim around the edges. I just glued and pin-nailed the trim in place. I also put the same trim on a room divider where the trim is just pin-nailed in place. I haven't noticed any problems with wood expansion/contraction and, like the others, don't think it would be that big an issue.

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post #8 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-16-2015, 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Zerk View Post
I got a bench top 60x29. The top layer of plywood is 3/4 oak, the bottom 3/4 sanded one side. So about 1.5 thick

I want to put oak bands around it. 3/4 thick, 1.5 H. The wood should contact and expand up and down, I believe. So how should I attach it.

Since the glue would run down and squish, I can't just glue just the center. If I glue it all the way, is movement going to be an issue?

Attach it flush for the top, so movement is forced down??

Brad nail it in the center of the wood? Though not sure if that would be strong enough. I could counter sink some wood screws in the center.

This is just for a reloading bench, so it doesn't have to be to nice, but it is practice. Plus I want to avoid metal that could scratch stuff.

Glue is drying right now between the sheets of plywood.
Thanks for help.
this is a workbench.. correct...
because of using the edges for clamping, vibration, (sanding) hammering and what not...
don't sweat wood movement but do spline it for endurance and strength...

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

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Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
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post #9 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-16-2015, 01:06 PM Thread Starter
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this is a workbench.. correct...
because of using the edges for clamping, vibration, (sanding) hammering and what not...
don't sweat wood movement but do spline it for endurance and strength...
It is a work bench, but I don't think it will take a lot of abuse. It is for reloading and gun smithing.
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post #10 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-16-2015, 01:12 PM Thread Starter
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stapled. Take care lining up the build-up when installing so there is minimal sanding required to get a smooth surface for gluing. Spread a very thin seal coat of Titebond on the plywood and let it dry then spread a nice second coat on and clamp the oak in place, should have no problems.


Why two layers of glue? Fill in voids?

I had just planned on putting glue on the plywood, and clamping on the oak trim. I don't have bar clamps so for the ends I'll have to brad nail it. Probably nail the long strips to since I have the gun out.

I am going to try and flush trim with my router, the bottom sheet to the top one. I have never done it before.
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