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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-16-2015, 09:14 AM Thread Starter
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Default lets talk poly

I am seeking info about polyurethane finish. There are a variety of products with specific usage/application claims ie floor, brush. wiping, precat etc. Whats the difference?

In the past I have used thickened poly (dried cap in can, thick poly under it) without detrimental results. It levels itself and rarely leaves brush marks. I used it on a rough sawn table top. almost used a squeege. it finished nicely.

If I want to spray it I thin it with mineral spirits.
I have mixed it with stain for touchup

So oh learned and educated ones, "Whats the dif"

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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-16-2015, 10:47 AM
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Some spray better, some brush better, some are a little harder, drying time different, and some cost a lot for no apparent reason. Most all will get the job done when applied right.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-16-2015, 11:50 AM
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I haven't sprayed Poly but have brushed it with an "OK" result. I had to chase runs and fight brush marks which is a P.I.T.A. . The Wipe on Poly is simple, just wipe it on. It dries in a reasonable time for a 2nd /3rd coat and has a decent result. They are Proud of their product but for small projects it won't break the bank.
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-16-2015, 12:46 PM Thread Starter
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Is wipe on just really thinned poly?

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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-16-2015, 09:40 PM
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Well Paduke let me be the first to post that I hate poly. IMHO it has one quality. It's hard. Beyond that I see no reason to use it on wood unless its a bowling ally or a bar top.

There are just too many other finishes that do justice to wood and make it look much better. Plain old wiping varnish is much easier to apply and will hold up to anything my grandkids put it through.

Also if your going to spray. Just pick up some pre cat lacquer. Much easier to apply. Has a tough finish and is 100 times easier to repair and it looks better.

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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-17-2015, 06:24 AM Thread Starter
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Welll Al when I started making my kitchen cabinets I did use pre cat laquer. Until Momma took the finish off the built in kitchen table with nail polish spill. Halfway thru I switched to poly. I really want info on the material not individual preference.

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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-17-2015, 06:28 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cherryville Chuck View Post
Some spray better, some brush better, some are a little harder, drying time different, and some cost a lot for no apparent reason. Most all will get the job done when applied right.
That is what I think. The product is poly suspended in mineral spirits. And you can thicken it or thin it and it works.

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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-17-2015, 09:41 AM
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When waterbourne Urethane first came out, I was dubious. But now I just shrug and use it because it's convenient as Hell! (I still hate Latex, but the newest Acylic/Urethane/waterbourne Alkyd paints are winning me over.)
-It dries extremely fast
-It's economical (relatively speaking)
-super easy clean-up of brushes etc. If the brush is still damp for the next coat, that's a good thing.
-all the normal good things about PolyUrethane. A few not-too-thin coats (3) and it's a done deal.
My personal preference is for semi or satin finish.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-17-2015, 02:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paduke View Post
Welll Al when I started making my kitchen cabinets I did use pre cat laquer. Until Momma took the finish off the built in kitchen table with nail polish spill. Halfway thru I switched to poly. I really want info on the material not individual preference.
Any nail polish spill can be wiped up long before it ruins pre cat. Good luck with the poly. It's been my observation even the pros don't like using it. But its hard.

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