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post #1 of 28 (permalink) Old 09-06-2015, 06:57 AM Thread Starter
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Default Over spray?

I have been using rattle cans to spray my projects but they seem to have a lot of over spray. I have been trying to suck it into a box fan with a pleated house filter and that helps but not good enough. I have been thinking about getting one of the HVLP sprayers. To what degree will this cut down on over spray?

Don in Murfreesboro,Tn.

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post #2 of 28 (permalink) Old 09-06-2015, 08:16 AM
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Don,

A little more context would help. What types of things are you spraying? Flat surfaces, inside corners, large/small projects, etc.

HVLP (High Volume Low Pressure) will certainly cut down on some of the overspray, but will not totally eliminate it. If you are spraying small items then rattle cans can be a blessing if used correctly. Most folks spay on too heavy instead of backing off and doing several light coats. It takes practice to get good results.

HVLP are great for larger surface area projects, but require more effort. The downside to HVLP is the cost of the equipment if you don't already have it availiable; set-up and adjustment time, and certainly clean-up have to be taken into account.

I have expanded my HVLP gun collection over the past couple of years. It is easier and sometimes cheaper to buy a whole gun then to buy a different size tip. But, I spray everything from waterborne stains to enamel and acrylic paints.

You might be better served to construct a portable spray booth and continue with the spray cans depending on the scope of your projects. Another alternative is something like an Earlex HVLP spray system that typically runs around $300. In any event, you won't eliminate overspray entirely. You will have to control it.
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post #3 of 28 (permalink) Old 09-06-2015, 08:24 AM
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Don, it sounds like your problem may be in how you are using the rattle can; I know I had problems with this for a long time. Give this method a try and see if it helps:

Turn your box fan on it's lowest speed and have it about 3' behind your project. Hold your can parallel to the surface and begin spraying to the side of the project and sweep across with a slow steady speed holding the can about 16" away. Do not stop spraying until you are past the edge. Don't make the mistake I did and hold the trigger down sweeping back and forth. Work from the edge closest to you towards the fan with about 1/3 overlap in each pass. This is how I get the best results.

It is likely you would get the same results with an HVLP sprayer you are getting with the can. An HVLP sprayer will provide you with a regulated spray that won't vary the way a can does as it empties. The cost of your chosen finish is much lower in larger quantities.
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post #4 of 28 (permalink) Old 09-06-2015, 08:38 AM
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Don, it sounds like your problem may be in how you are using the rattle can; I know I had problems with this for a long time. Give this method a try and see if it helps:

Turn your box fan on it's lowest speed and have it about 3' behind your project. Hold your can parallel to the surface and begin spraying to the side of the project and sweep across with a slow steady speed holding the can about 16" away. Do not stop spraying until you are past the edge. Don't make the mistake I did and hold the trigger down sweeping back and forth. Work from the edge closest to you towards the fan with about 1/3 overlap in each pass. This is how I get the best results.

It is likely you would get the same results with an HVLP sprayer you are getting with the can. An HVLP sprayer will provide you with a regulated spray that won't vary the way a can does as it empties. The cost of your chosen finish is much lower in larger quantities.
Certainly good points. The technique applies to ALL types of spray systems. Most people spray with the cans too close and try to cover completely in one or two passes. Instead, as Mike says, back off, mist on a layer in an even coat, and do several passes until it is covered.

With an HVLP you would typically move closer, depending on the tip size, pressure, and the material being sprayed.

No matter what system(s) you use, you will have to deal with overspray.
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post #5 of 28 (permalink) Old 09-06-2015, 08:49 AM
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You might want to consider getting an airbrush for small projects. I use mine for items up to the size of burl clocks. Very little overspray and excellent control. They also use very little air so you don't need a big compressor. Even good ones like a Binks aren't all that expensive.

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post #6 of 28 (permalink) Old 09-06-2015, 08:52 AM
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You might want to consider getting an airbrush for small projects. I use mine for items up to the size of burl clocks. Very little overspray and excellent control. They also use very little air so you don't need a big compressor. Even good ones like a Binks aren't all that expensive.
Another good suggestion on how to control the overspray, Chuck.

Without knowing the scope of the projects it is hard to pinpoint the control advice.

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post #7 of 28 (permalink) Old 09-06-2015, 09:25 AM Thread Starter
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I mostly spray small projects like the clock in my avatar. I have been spraying lacquer which dries faster and cuts down on over spray getting all over everything but still I have the problem. I have made a small spray booth out of a card board box about 2 foot square with the box fan behind it and short cardboard sides but no top. I have also been making a few corn hole boards and painting them with laytex house paint. I am using a 4" roller to paint them so the painting goes pretty quick but it's the curing time that is slowing me down. I have been waiting 2 days before using painters tape to make designs.

I have read about the Earlex 5500 and while it's not the best sprayer it does a pretty good job of spraying just about any thing. I think first I will make a better spray booth and see how that works.

Don in Murfreesboro,Tn.

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post #8 of 28 (permalink) Old 09-06-2015, 10:43 AM
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Don I use a spray booth I got from Chicago Airbrush and run a dryer ducting to a duct outside run at full speed. I also use a airbrush I got from them that has a nozzle like the HVLP guns. I also use EM6000 waterbased lacquer from Target Coatings which dries fairly quickly and will also burn into the last coat like regular lacquer. I use a smaller compressor and have very little overspray problems or less than a spray can. I also spray lots of small turning projects and antique clocks that I restore. When I used a fan I would have it setting about 12 to 24 inches from the piece I was spraying and running full out.

One thing I forgot to mention is there are no what I call toxic smell using WB Lacquer over regular lacquer. So I can spray inside all year round. Just some idea's of things that have worked for me for many years.
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post #9 of 28 (permalink) Old 09-06-2015, 10:56 AM
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Hey, Don; I'm not sure if this applies in the setup you're talking about, but if the spray is confined, like inside a box, the backpressure from the 'booth' will deflect the spray, forcing it off to the side and back at you. Sort of like trying to blow up a partly inflated ballon. To be really effective, the air pressure in the 'booth' would need to be lower than the surrounding environment; basically suction down or out the back.
You really see this effect when using any kind of air type sprayer and trying to paint an inside corner.

I just read Bernie's comment and he's saying the same thing; lots of air moving away from your project.
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post #10 of 28 (permalink) Old 09-06-2015, 11:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hawkeye10 View Post
I mostly spray small projects like the clock in my avatar. I have been spraying lacquer which dries faster and cuts down on over spray getting all over everything but still I have the problem. I have made a small spray booth out of a card board box about 2 foot square with the box fan behind it and short cardboard sides but no top. I have also been making a few corn hole boards and painting them with laytex house paint. I am using a 4" roller to paint them so the painting goes pretty quick but it's the curing time that is slowing me down. I have been waiting 2 days before using painters tape to make designs.

I have read about the Earlex 5500 and while it's not the best sprayer it does a pretty good job of spraying just about any thing. I think first I will make a better spray booth and see how that works.
Don,

Thanks for the context. Now we can address the real issue in a logical manner.



I can offer a few options and suggestions. However, you are the ultimate determiner of what will work for you.

The first step is, indeed, a better spray booth. If you do a search I'm sure that you will find something that will work and fits your physical space needs. I believe that Woodsmithshop.com did a fold up, wall mounted, spray enclosure in the past year or so. You might start there. There are a lot of other examples out there. I'm sure that there are some of the members here that can offer some help.

Since you are doing small(er) projects. Chuck's suggestion is a valid alternative. An airbrush is great at doing small things, and the overspray can be kept to a very manageable level. However, you might be limited by the volume of the reservoir. Larger containers are available, however.

If you have a compressor handy a small HVLP may be a viable alternative. I'll take heat from certain quarters, but I do have a HF touchup gun with a 0.8mm tip. It is fantastic for spraying waterborne finishes on smaller areas. It is limited by the 4 oz cup but would be perfect with an 8 oz replacement. It was cheap and at the price no loss if I eventually have to replace it. So far, it has not let me down. However, I am just spraying water and/or alcohol through it and not a heavier material or pigment.

For spraying Lacquer you could probably use a 0.8 - 1.2 mm tip and be OK. Some of the spraying experts may need to weigh in here as I am not the expert here.

If you continue to use spray cans follow the label directions. Most will call for a 12" maximum distance, for lacquer that will probably be a little closer. If you get out too far, the material is dry before it hits the intended target. This is the reason you get things like orange peel, cloudiness, or flaking finish. If it goes on dry it won't stick or provide a finish that has "flowed" and leveled out when it does dry. Just causes more work.

Hope this helps.

Edited: Sorry, I was a little slow on this post and I see that Bernie and Dan slipped in ahead. Both have offered good advice.
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Last edited by schnewj; 09-06-2015 at 11:24 AM.
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