Fuming White Oak? - Router Forums
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post #1 of 53 (permalink) Old 03-02-2016, 09:52 AM Thread Starter
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Default Fuming White Oak?

I'm building speaker stands out of quarter sawn white oak and plan on fuming them.

What are you guys experiences with fuming?
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post #2 of 53 (permalink) Old 03-02-2016, 10:04 AM
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dangerous..
do you know how to???
do you even have a source for straight ammonia???

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
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post #3 of 53 (permalink) Old 03-02-2016, 10:07 AM
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No but I've read up on it a bit. It was common during the Mission Furniture period. H. H. Windsor wrote a series of articles that appeared in Popular Mechanics back about 100 years ago. It was compiled into a book eventually. Fuming was part of the look and one or more of the articles describes the process in detail. The copyrights have expired long ago and I've seen free downloads of the book on the net although the book is also available, usually at a reasonable price. It's a reasonably good investment if you like Mission furniture as the book is a series of designs which you can build or use for inspiration.

All of the designs Windsor intended to be made from white oak which is high in tannin which is what the ammonia vapors react with. Basically you just build a tent around the piece and leave a saucer of ammonia inside and wait. It takes days for the process to work. I have no idea what the strength of ammonia Windsor had available to him at the time but I would use the strongest that you can find.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #4 of 53 (permalink) Old 03-02-2016, 10:12 AM Thread Starter
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dangerous..
do you know how to???
do you even have a source for straight ammonia???
Just what I have read & seen on the web, and I would only use the 10% grade that can be bought at ace hardware and I do understand ammonia is dangerous so I would use the protective gear necessary.
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post #5 of 53 (permalink) Old 03-02-2016, 10:12 AM Thread Starter
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No but I've read up on it a bit. It was common during the Mission Furniture period. H. H. Windsor wrote a series of articles that appeared in Popular Mechanics back about 100 years ago. It was compiled into a book eventually. Fuming was part of the look and one or more of the articles describes the process in detail. The copyrights have expired long ago and I've seen free downloads of the book on the net although the book is also available, usually at a reasonable price. It's a reasonably good investment if you like Mission furniture as the book is a series of designs which you can build or use for inspiration.

All of the designs Windsor intended to be made from white oak which is high in tannin which is what the ammonia vapors react with. Basically you just build a tent around the piece and leave a saucer of ammonia inside and wait. It takes days for the process to work. I have no idea what the strength of ammonia Windsor had available to him at the time but I would use the strongest that you can find.
Pretty much what I have read & seen online.
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post #6 of 53 (permalink) Old 03-02-2016, 10:17 AM
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dangerous..
do you know how to???
do you even have a source for straight ammonia???
H. H. Windsor wouldn't have had access to straight ammonia Stick. He would only have had access to aqueous ammonia which would have been greatly diluted from pure anhydrous ammonia. Twice a year I head over to Alberta and haul anhydrous ammonia to the farmers who use it in their fields. Anhydrous is the cheapest form of nitrogen fertilizer being 82% by weight. You are quite right about the hazards. I have to take a course to handle it and wear a full face mask respirator as well as protective clothing. Depending on ambient temperature it is usually at a pressure of 50-100psi, it evaporates at -33C, and is extremely caustic.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #7 of 53 (permalink) Old 03-02-2016, 10:42 AM
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it's been a lot of decades since I've done any...
or Anhydrous ammonia wood bending either..
there must have been some very good reasons...
postponing my death is one that immediately comes to mind.......

FWIW...
fuming effects continue after the piece is removed from the fumes...
the fumes react w/ the tannin causing the wood to darken and it's grain to ''pop''...
results from household ammonia never seems to compare in results as when Anhydrous is used..
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Anhydrous Ammonia Health information.pdf (71.0 KB, 94 views)
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This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
Stick486 is online now  
post #8 of 53 (permalink) Old 03-02-2016, 11:00 AM Thread Starter
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I would use Ace Ammonia which contains 10% ammonium hydroxide.
http://www.acehardware.com/product/i...ductId=1272325
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post #9 of 53 (permalink) Old 03-02-2016, 11:28 AM
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Why???

Herb
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post #10 of 53 (permalink) Old 03-02-2016, 11:33 AM
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adds darkening to the wood w/o hiding the grain...
also makes the grain stand out...

and you MUST have final sanding done before you fume...

or all bets are off...
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This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
Stick486 is online now  
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