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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-12-2008, 07:59 PM Thread Starter
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Default Staining end grain

I find that when I stain end grain, it comes out much darker than the straight grain portions of the piece I'm working on. Is there a way to get the end grain portions of the work to take the stain the same as the straight grain portions? I'd like them to match.
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-13-2008, 08:59 AM
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They may never exactly match,but you can get the end grain a bit lighter. The way I do it now is to sand the end grain to a higher(finer) grit than the long grain and then apply a spit coat(very thin) of shellac before the stain. Experiment on sample boards first.

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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-13-2008, 09:24 AM
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I use a low angle block plane on end grain which really tightens the grain and prevents it from "sponging" the stain so badly. It gives me a much closer match, athough not perfect.
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-13-2008, 09:32 AM
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Jerry, now that I have been introduced to Shellac and am finding it quite wonderful on everything that I've tried except pens, I will remember this tip regarding end grain which I have always had difficulty with.

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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-13-2008, 09:34 AM
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Bob, if only I had your hand tool skills, I would go on a spending spree for the finest in hand planes.

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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-13-2008, 10:02 AM
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I also do the same as Bob,,, in order to get a nice finish on the end grain is must be smooth and clean..you can sand it but the plane can do it just a bit better..

The Shooting Board
http://www.whitemountdesign.com/ShootingBoard.htm


At one time I had a cast iron machine that was made just for that job,,, it was a OLD tool that took two people to move around, big sucker it had a 6" tall skew angle blade and a handle that would move the blade by the sock...I think it was for making picture frames but it worked great for just about all end grains..


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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-14-2008, 09:18 AM
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I wasn't aware that many people used hand tools in general and planes in particular. I'm sure you know this but you don't need a block plane to cut end grain any well tuned plane will do a good job. Although I use many power tools I still use many hand tools on every project.

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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-18-2008, 11:07 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jerrymayfield View Post
They may never exactly match,but you can get the end grain a bit lighter. The way I do it now is to sand the end grain to a higher(finer) grit than the long grain and then apply a spit coat(very thin) of shellac before the stain. Experiment on sample boards first.

Regards

Jerry
Jerry-Thanks for the idea. Its too late to try it on the current project, but I'll certainly give it a try on the next one.
Regards,
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-18-2008, 11:11 PM Thread Starter
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I use a low angle block plane on end grain which really tightens the grain and prevents it from "sponging" the stain so badly. It gives me a much closer match, athough not perfect.
Thanks Bob, next time I have a project where I can plane the end grain, I'll try that. Might even try a practice board or two to get the technique down!
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-20-2008, 12:24 PM
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On the project I just finished I used a sanding sealer after using 220 grit paper and then hand rubbed the stain and it came out perfect.
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