wax, oil, laquer - Router Forums
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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-26-2016, 12:32 PM Thread Starter
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Default wax, oil, laquer

I want to use wax (beeswax and mineral oil) on red oak. I am thinking of putting a coat or two of water-based acrylic lacquer over the wax to give further protection. Can this be done? Will it really add protection? Will the answer be the same with other woods?
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-26-2016, 01:20 PM
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I'm betting not much will stick too the beeswax...
you might want to experiment some 1st so there's no doubt as to what's gonna happen...
make sure the test pieces get some sun...
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This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-26-2016, 03:28 PM
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Absolutely not, Hank; worst possible scenario other than maybe Silicone contamination.
Totally incompatible, as Stick suggested.
Even the other way 'round would be a problem as the mineral oil and beeswax are supposed to soak into the wood
In finishing, waxing is the final step. If you need to re-coat the wax and oils must be stripped off.

Wax Wash™ Remover - Mohawk Finishing
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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-26-2016, 05:53 PM
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I think the others are right about this, don't do it. Is this going to be on a cutting board you made?

Don in Murfreesboro,Tn.

Measure once cut twice and it's still to short.
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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-27-2016, 09:18 AM Thread Starter
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Got the message - it's a no-no.
Right now I'm working on shelves in the bedroom. The question was more general - I like working with wax and oil when they bring out the color of the wood that I like - don't need multiple coats with sanding between them. I was hoping to get some extra protection. Oh well, so much for that idea.
Thanks for the help.
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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-27-2016, 07:02 PM
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I use boiled linseed oil, which I wipe off well and let dry for a week, followed by a coat of wax free shellac, and then gel stain followed by several coats of poly, of course lightly sanding between each step. I've never had any problems when following these steps, but mineral oil and bees wax don't dry hard like BLO does. I'll bet that no finish on top of it will work. Can't you put the bees wax and mineral oil combination on last and rub it out real thin?

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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-27-2016, 08:33 PM
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there isn't much if anything at all that will stick to wax, oils or water...
exclude cured tung and BLO

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
Stick486 is online now  
post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-27-2016, 11:30 PM
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CharleyL; man, that brought back memories of HS woodworking!
I got to hate rubbing stuff down with rotten-stone. Who came up with that idea anyway?
Lee Valley Tools - Hand Rubbing with Pumice and Rottenstone
MediEVIL, that stuff is...
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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-27-2016, 11:38 PM
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my father...

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-28-2016, 12:26 AM
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Noah? Really?
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