Probably a stupid question but one I have to ask - Router Forums
 5Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-26-2016, 12:52 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Country: United States
First Name: Barry
Posts: 592
 
Default Probably a stupid question but one I have to ask

I think I know the answer to this but I don't want to mess up a project by not asking. I'm making my second end grain cutting board. It will require two glue ups. I grabbed a bottle of Titebond III, because it was in easy reach, and did the first glue up. It's drying as I type this. After I was done, I realized that I won't have enough for the second glue up. I have plenty of Titebond II. Can I use the II for the second glue up without causing a problem? I know that if the joint is flush no glue will show, but each block (think checker board) of the finished board would have two edges glued with III and the other two edges glued with II. Do I use the II or head out to HD for another bottle of III? As always, thanks for your help.
Barry747 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-26-2016, 03:08 PM
Moderation Team
 
Semipro's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Country: United States
First Name: John_*
Posts: 6,682
 
Semipro is offline  
post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-26-2016, 07:42 PM
Registered User
 
JOAT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Country: United States
First Name: Theo
Posts: 6,584
 
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Semipro View Post
Now that was very interesting. The last I read on glue strength was years ago, when it was supposedly 2500 lbs for basically any then modern wood glue. Actually, I don't really see much of a biggie on glue strength, as it's all stronger than wood anyway.

I started using just Titebond years and years ago. Later tried Titebond II, and like it better, so stuck with that. A year or so ago decided to give Titebond a shot again, 'cause couldn't remember why I'd stopped using it. Well, turns out it was different from Titebond in a variety of small ways, perfectly usable, but enough so I went back to Titebond II. Never ran into anything I figured I needed Titebond III on, so have never tried it. I figure if I ever make a wooden boat I'll probably use Titebond II, because it will be protected by fiberglass, paint, or whatever, and not subject to direct immersion. Besides, if I were to make a wooden boat it would be trailered, and not in the water more than a few hours at a time.

"It ain't what you're told, it's what you know." - Granny Weatherwax
Fawkahwe tribal police SWAT Team
Some days, the supply of available curse words is insufficient to meet my demands.
.....Call me a craftsman, artisan, or artistic, and I will accept that. Call me an artist and you will likely get a quite rude comment in return. I am not a @#$%ing artist.
JOAT is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-26-2016, 07:50 PM
Forum Contributor
 
Stick486's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Country: United States
First Name: Stick
Posts: 29,259
 
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by JOAT View Post
I started using just Titebond years and years ago. Later tried Titebond II, and like it better, so stuck with that.
look for Franklyn glue...
they make Titebond and it's the same...
different label and a lot cheaper...

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
Stick486 is online now  
post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-26-2016, 08:19 PM
Moderation Team
 
Cherryville Chuck's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Country: Canada
First Name: Charles
Posts: 15,917
 
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Stick486 View Post
look for Franklyn glue...
they make Titebond and it's the same...
different label and a lot cheaper...
The one I posted in this thread (post 24)? http://www.routerforums.com/tools-wo...bond-glue.html It dries clear instead of brown so glue lines won't show as much in light colored woods and as Theo pointed out, all glues are stronger than wood. The Evertite sells here for $16.99 per 3.78 L / US gallon.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
Cherryville Chuck is online now  
post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-26-2016, 10:03 PM
Forum Contributor
 
DesertRatTom's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Country: United States
First Name: Tom
Posts: 18,120
 
Default

Titebond also makes a clear drying glue that is pretty nice, and it stays open for a bit longer.

Titebond 4134 Extend Wood Glue Bottle, 16 oz.
by Titebond

Passes Type II water-resistance testing
Slower speed of set - Longer open time
Hot press and R-F compatible

I've used it a couple of times and don't mind letting it set up for two hours or so.

The more I do, the less I accomplish.
DesertRatTom is offline  
post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-27-2016, 08:13 AM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Country: United States
First Name: Barry
Posts: 592
 
Default

Thanks for all your replies. I am familiar with the properties of the various Titebond glues. In rereading my question, I realized that I hadn't phrased my main question properly. I apologize for that. I know that both II or III will work with cutting boards and, once dry, both are stronger than the wood. My main concern, for the board that I'm currently making, which is mostly end grain maple, is that, when II and III dry, they're different colors. II is yellowish and III is a light brown. If any of the joints aren't perfect, a thin line of the dried glue may show. If this occurs on adjacent edges they will be different colors. But, would this make a difference once the board is oiled? I'd prefer not to have to go out and buy another bottle III, which I rarely use, just to finish this one board. Then again, if it will make a difference if the joints aren't perfect, I'd hate to waste about $30 worth of wood for cost of a bottle of III. Again, i'm sorry i didn't ask this originally.
Barry747 is offline  
post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-27-2016, 08:29 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Country: United States
First Name: lee
Posts: 743
 
Default

Sounds like it will make a difference to you and for you to be happy with your project you need to be consist with the glues since you know they dry a different color. How about just buy a small bottle of Titebond III? Woodcraft has Titebond III on sale for 4.24 for the small bottle.
coxhaus is offline  
post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-27-2016, 10:48 AM
Forum Contributor
 
MEBCWD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Country: United States
First Name: Mike
Posts: 3,377
 
Default

Barry,

Remember III is water proof and II is water resistant. That is why most people that make cutting boards use III. The board will need to be washed and cleaned after each use so the board will be subjected to water all the time. Periodically the board should also have finish reapplied so the owner should be told how to take care of the board and what to use to refresh the finish.
bryansong likes this.

Mike
Your BRAIN Is The Most Important Power Tool In Your Shop. Turn It On Before You Turn On Any Other Power Tool.
A Disability Is Only A Disability If You Let It Be One
MEBCWD is online now  
post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-28-2016, 07:58 AM
Registered User
 
shopsmithtom's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Country: United States
First Name: Tom
Posts: 16
 
Default key point

Quote:
Originally Posted by MEBCWD View Post
Barry,

Remember III is water proof and II is water resistant. That is why most people that make cutting boards use III. The board will need to be washed and cleaned after each use so the board will be subjected to water all the time. Periodically the board should also have finish reapplied so the owner should be told how to take care of the board and what to use to refresh the finish.
For me, this is the key point moving forward. (I agree that it seems that your worry about a different look for the glue joints means that you should not change glues in mid project)
But I don't like using a water RESISTANT glue on anything that gets washed (or soaked) over & over.
For me it's a water PROOF glue on those projects.
shopsmithtom is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Router Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Question About This Forum Jerry Bowen Tools and Woodworking 4 03-30-2012 09:46 AM
A stupid question: Do I really need to register my BOSCH product? limi General Routing 5 10-18-2011 01:24 PM
stupid question haglered Table-mounted Routing 5 02-20-2011 01:26 PM
DC Question angus Lobby 3 03-31-2008 07:29 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome