Solid wood box questions for Harrysin & others - Router Forums
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-28-2016, 04:46 PM Thread Starter
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Default Solid wood box questions for Harrysin & others

Good morning Harry, I assume I am like most new router users and have searched the forum for your box routing posts and learnt a lot, thank you.

As with any lesson, there are several questions - Do you make deep boxes that require a collet extension or do you route out layers to build up the extra depth ?

Do you use PU glues or the PVA / yellow glues when glue required ? Or is it timber species dependent ?

Having cleaned out several hardwood stair tread offcuts for dishes & trays using a Forstner bit I though it may be better to route out a narrow trench around the outside before using the Forstner bit - or does it make no difference - can see that just clearing with the bit does save some bit wear, so just wondering.

Many thanks

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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-28-2016, 05:23 PM
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Hi Richard and welcome to the forum. Hopefully Harry will be along soon but he did post a few days ago saying that his computer was in the shop and he was having to use his wife's.

As far as glue goes, species only matters when the woods are particularly oily. In those cases I would use a poyurethane or epoxy. Other wise the only consideration is the glue line and whether it will show up in contrast to the wood. I know that Harry has used and likes Weldbond and it dries clear. One of his tutorials also shows using a flush trim bit with a v cutting spur on it which creates a small groove that creates a shadow line at a joint which does a great deal to hide it. Several companies make this bit and I have one made by Amana.

Many of us here will use Forstners to remove as much waste material as possible to reduce wear and tear on the router and the bit plus the Forstner is much faster at removing waste than a router bit is. I would ideally set my drill press for about 1/4"/ 6mm above finished height and no more than that from the sides.

You should be a bit careful using extensions as the longer they are the more torque they put on the router shaft and bearings. At full extension you would want to be taking very light passes and slowing down probably as well.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-28-2016, 10:25 PM
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Welcome to the forum Richard.

Ross,
Rockhampton, Queensland, Australia


Enjoy the knowledge of others that can be found within.

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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-29-2016, 07:25 PM
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Richard, you have picked the right person to ask questions. I have found Harry, to be a most helpful and willing to help in any way he can. The best thing about him for my money is he knows his stuff. He will if possible give you the info you need.

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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-30-2016, 09:06 AM
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I do hope that these two projects will answer all your questions regarding routing boxes from solid wood. Where possible I avoid collet extensions because even expensive ones like my CMT tend to cause vibration, I prefer to use long straight bits like the 3" one that I used for the rectangular box. For many years I have used "Weldbond" made in Canada, it goes off quickly and dries transparent By the way, welcome to the forum Richard.

;
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File Type: pdf Routing a box from solid wood.pdf (1.23 MB, 117 views)
File Type: pdf Routing for beginners 5.pdf (4.36 MB, 91 views)
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-03-2016, 05:22 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you very much Harry - That tute now kept for future analysis.

In the process of making a set of skis for my Triton - using alloy angle & alloy section as the Triton M0F001 does not have the facility to use rods. I am using a length of 1M ( about 39 inch if memory serves ) - expect some vertical deformation but if excessive ( above about 2 mm) I will add further verticals in the form of 25 x 3mm which should add a lot of stiffening - the router is about 6Kg and originally bought for the router table that is still being built. I am allowing for larger dimension templates, hence the 1M support length, if too much deflection, I will build a shorter span ski for the narrower, finer work tolerances. Up to now, I have been using an across the workbench vertically adjustable " sled " as I have been working with 2700mm x 450- 600mm rough sawn slabs that are a very different pastime so really looking forward to doing some work that can be held in one hand.

Again, thank you for the tutorials and comments.

Regards
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-03-2016, 08:33 AM
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36" is pushing it a bit Richard. An alternative approach would be to make a sub-base with a block, preferably made from metal but hard wood could be OK, in each corner. This way 5/8" rods could be used. My Triton is permanently under the table. A problem apart from sag with long ski rods is that having your arms stretched so wide, considering that the skis are operated by the ski ends NOT the router itself because doing so, varying pressure will cause uneven thickness. Please let us have some photos. of your completed skis.
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-03-2016, 05:50 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Harry, I have thought about the arm span and was playing around with a mock up yesterday. The bench is 700mm wide so at the stretched distance yes the hands are well spread. The design allows easy shortening as the alloy rails are riveted to a cross angle with a gusset also riveted so just a hacksaw to shorten then drill out the rivets on the gusset and the end cross angle and go again.......
Like the idea of the heay rods onto the top of a new base, as I use a fairly large plaining bit a fair deal, the new base has to be thin as there is little depth with that bit but using 6mm ply without the plastic base in place wil be a good solution, thanks again for your solution.
Actually took some photos of the alloy rails half built on one side and the other side still in the glue up clamping stage..

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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-10-2016, 11:13 PM Thread Starter
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OK finally completed the alloy square section & angle ski. I allowed a clearance of 2mm so I can use the ski as a "sled" by sliding the router along the work bench for times when my other sled ( which is basically for routing across the bench width ) does not meet the need of the job.

Almost no depth deflection as far as I can tell having only done some tests on MDF ( horrible stuff to rout out ) maybe doing some hardwood where the bit is working a little harder may show up some movement - many light passes are always better that trying to take big bites.

Very easy to build as is the method of locking the router in place. Yes the length does have the potential to be a problem - just have to clean off the 2.5 meter long bench before doing anything does help - personally I will build another set of ends as I think that a rounded hand placement may be more comfortable as well as routing the edge off the hand pieces - just my initial impression.

Hopefully the photos show the outcome - have not done the end gussets as again the initial test runs suggest may not be needed - each corner has 2 rivets ( one into section, one into angle )

The routed piece under the router is actually an unfinished tray I have been doing free hand from an off cut of hardwood stair tread about 300 x 300 x 40mm (12 in x 12 in x 1.5)

Harry, with the photo you posted of the ply base on a rod - am I correct in thinking only one rod is used ? Am I missing something ?

Solid wood box questions for Harrysin & others-20160908_140136a.jpg


Solid wood box questions for Harrysin & others-20160903_164211a.jpg

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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-11-2016, 01:03 AM
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It's looking good Richard, I now await shots of the set-up in actual use. The photo that you refer to was a quick mock-up simply to illustrate what I had in mind and a practical ski based on that method would probably have the base made from 1/8" Aluminium with a block in each corner to take the usual two rods and with the plastic base removed from the router, (this is always done when a sub-base is used, to reduce loss of depth of cut). Router locking screws as shown are set into two of the blocks.

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