Smallest lightest plunge router - Router Forums
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post #1 of 51 (permalink) Old 09-22-2016, 01:06 PM Thread Starter
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Default Smallest lightest plunge router

I'm making some shelving. I have 1400 shelf pin holes to drill. I'm using a triton mof001 in an indexing jig. The triton has the twist knob operated plunge. My wrist is getting sore, not to mention that this machine is overkill and unnecessarily heavy for drilling 1/4"○ by 3/8" deep holes.

So is there a lightweight machine, a trim router even, with a continuous duty motor and a smooth acting plunge mechanism?
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post #2 of 51 (permalink) Old 09-22-2016, 01:18 PM
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why are you using a router...
why not a template and a drill...

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

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post #3 of 51 (permalink) Old 09-22-2016, 02:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stick486 View Post
why are you using a router...
Why not a template and a drill...
+1...

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post #4 of 51 (permalink) Old 09-22-2016, 02:05 PM
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...Bridger...the twist knob is used when not in plunge mode for fine adjustment...like when in a table.

Disengage the lock...plunge will work like it should...

But your application should really be done with drill/press...

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post #5 of 51 (permalink) Old 09-22-2016, 02:23 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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why are you using a router...
why not a template and a drill...
that is how I have done it in the past. I have run into problems with wear in the indexing jig, the tendency of hand drilled holes to be not-quite-square, and the depth stop and jig tending to mark up the wood. I thought I'd try the router. I do like the hole that the router makes better, flat bottomed and chip free with a solid carbide down spiral bit. I don't like the mass of this router, nor the plunge mechanism.


Soooo, what's the lightest decent quality plunger out there?
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post #6 of 51 (permalink) Old 09-22-2016, 02:51 PM
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The Bosch Colt. It excels at this type of work and the PR012 dust collection adapter does a good job.
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post #7 of 51 (permalink) Old 09-22-2016, 03:03 PM
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A DeWalt 611 does as well.

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post #8 of 51 (permalink) Old 09-22-2016, 03:03 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nickp View Post
...Bridger...the twist knob is used when not in plunge mode for fine adjustment...like when in a table.

Disengage the lock...plunge will work like it should...

But your application should really be done with drill/press...

the plunge lock is disengaged. to have it in free plunge mode, I have to push in and hold the button on the twist side handle. let it go, it reengages. I have 1400 holes. I want it to stay in free plunge mode.

drill press- these are large heavy boards. having to move/ re-position them for each hole.... again, I have 1400 holes.
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post #9 of 51 (permalink) Old 09-22-2016, 03:15 PM
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I also agree with drilling. Use these to solve the wear problem (better to drill the hole for them with a drill press) Bushings and Inserts - Lee Valley Tools
Use these to solve the depth problem. Split Depth Collars for Drills - Lee Valley Tools I add about a 1/16" to the depth of the stop collar to allow for sawdust between the guide and the stop collar or you can blow the guide and collar clean and make a finish cut.

Between those two groups of items you can make shelf drilling jigs, drawer front drilling jigs, dowel locating jigs, etc. Just about any doweling jig you can buy can be made with these.
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post #10 of 51 (permalink) Old 09-22-2016, 04:00 PM Thread Starter
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the points about using a drill to drill holes are well taken. However, I have drilled many thousands of shelf pin holes, enough to have tried various jigging approaches. I have used sleeve jigs, vix bit jigs and portalign jigs. I have used them all day long, enough to run into the ergonomic problems, the wear problems, you name it. I have seen how sleeves clog the flutes of the drill bit with sawdust. to get a clean entry hole with a drill bit in chippy veneers you need a spur point bit. with a spur point bit you have to bring the drill to a stop before loading into a sleeve or you'll blow the spurs in no time. waiting for the drill to coast down 1400 times is an expensive waste of time. vix bits too clog with sawdust, jamming the outer sleeve. then the sleeve spins against the template, rapidly wearing the bit and the jig. I have worn out plenty of both.

with the plunge router jig I'm using now, the jig registers a pin in a hole that does not have anything spinning in it, nor does it have sawdust passing through it. wear is negligible. the power draw and weight of a small router is similar to that of a handheld drill. the cutter is unrestricted, so sawdust is freely ejected and sucked up immediately by the vacuum hose attached. the weight of the tool is supported by the workpiece at all times except during repositioning. the plunge mechanism gives me squarer holes than a handheld drill and the depth stop mechanism doesn't impede sawdust flow.
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