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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 11-13-2016, 08:21 PM Thread Starter
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Default Shelf Rabbet

Building cabinets and using all the undersized plywood is getting old quickly. I use a jig to get an exact dado fit but for some of the deeper cabinets it a bit tougher.. I have seen the undersized cabinet router dado two fluted bits you can get but again the plywood is all over the place...
Does any one rout there plywood shelf edges to a uniform thickness with a table mounted router and fence , then just plow a dado in the carcass???? I was thinking of going with a 5/8" for all my ''3/4" stuff?
Kinda like the picture but only going with about 3/16" or so for the rabbet tongue.
Any one do anything similar ???
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 11-13-2016, 09:07 PM
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I use an exact fit dado jig for the cabinets I build. I made it so it would be a little wider than the side of a base cabinet (typically 23 1/4 inches wide). The jig is like the one The Wood Whisperer built in his video, only the knobs are on the top side so I can clamp the jig to the work bench.

This week I have 16 more sides to cut the dadoes in . :-)
Here's my thread on the jig.

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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 11-13-2016, 09:41 PM Thread Starter
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That is about the same sort of set up that I'm using at the moment..
I know it does not take that long to set up but in my case I think it would be more efficient for me to cut the dado's on the table saw. But again undersized ply.. I tried a small sample piece earlier and it fits nice and dead easy to do, not sure about large shelf pieces . I might have to install a larger fence on the incra to insure 90degree cut..
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 11-13-2016, 11:29 PM
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I tried that not long ago to build a louvered grille for a gable end on a house to ventilate the attic but I did everything on a table saw. I made the grooves first with a dado set set and then tenoned the ends of the louvers by running them vertically over the saw. I probably posted that around July. I found that to be much faster than trying to set up for the board thickness.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 11-14-2016, 05:44 AM
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Have you looked at the undersize bits that most manufacturers sell to try to address this problem? I have a 23/32" bit which worked well the last time I used it making cabinets with "cabinet-grade" birch plywood. I'm thinking that it may also work with 18 mm plywood - .718" for 23/32" versus ,.716" for 18.2 mm. I think it's probably more of a problem that the plywood thickness tends to be somewhat inconsistent - more batch to batch that sheet to sheet, assuming that sheets you buy at a given time are from the same batch. I just ran a bunch of drawer parts using a 7/32" bit to make the grooves for the plywood bottom and got a good fit - this on some offcut plywood that I had lying around. I also have a 13/64" bit that gives a good fit if you have 5 mm plywood.
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 11-14-2016, 07:17 AM
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I would agree that the table saw is the way to go. There is too much to go wrong when trying to do matching sides.
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