Fireplace Mantel Routing Question - Router Forums
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-11-2017, 09:19 AM Thread Starter
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Default Fireplace Mantel Routing Question

Over the past few months I've been remodeling our lower level. We had a gas fireplace roughed in. I've tiled it and now want to make a mantel. I have a
6' x 9" x 2" piece of maple that's been air drying for years.

I want to route a 2" radius Roman Ogee profile on 3 sides (face and both ends). My router is a Bosch 1617 EVS PK and I have a Kreg table. I typically try to route profile with a router table but this stock is so large and heavy that I'm thinking I should clamp the stock down and use portable routing. If I hold the router in my hand I'm worried about tear-out on the ends. And either way I'm worried about burning.

I will make several passes.

So what tips/suggestions/thoughts etc. can you old pros toss me? Thanks for reading.

Last edited by oldhudson49; 02-11-2017 at 12:04 PM.
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-11-2017, 10:07 AM
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see if any of this helps...

.
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Attached Files
File Type: pdf ROUTER SAFETY 1.pdf (73.3 KB, 48 views)
File Type: pdf READING GRAIN.pdf (135.0 KB, 50 views)
File Type: pdf R5 TEAR OUT - How to avoid....pdf (341.1 KB, 51 views)
File Type: pdf R5 ROUTER SPEEDS-BURNING.pdf (212.1 KB, 44 views)
File Type: pdf R5 CLIMB CUTTING.pdf (74.4 KB, 47 views)
File Type: pdf CLIMB CUTTING.pdf (74.4 KB, 48 views)
File Type: pdf Routing for beginners - Lesson - 5.pdf (4.36 MB, 49 views)
File Type: pdf Routing for Beginners - Lesson - 4.pdf (1.14 MB, 48 views)
File Type: pdf Routing for Beginners - Lesson - 3.pdf (856.1 KB, 43 views)
File Type: pdf Routing for Beginners - Lesson - 2.pdf (1.36 MB, 53 views)
File Type: pdf Routing for Beginners - Lesson - 1.pdf (1.50 MB, 55 views)
File Type: pdf RouterBitBasics_en.pdf (1.78 MB, 46 views)
File Type: pdf ROUTER SAFETY 2.pdf (34.4 KB, 44 views)

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-11-2017, 12:07 PM
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Berry on the corners where you are worried about tear out rout them first, just nibbling away slowly in a climb cut direction. I try to anchor the router hand firmly against the piece to resist the climb cutting forces the router produces and swing the router in gently with my other hand. An alternate method is to clamp another piece of wood at those ends and the clamped piece will protect the corner if it is in good firm contact with it.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-11-2017, 03:42 PM
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that would be one hell of a cut with a handheld.
I would use a router table and featherboards, and extension support trestle at both ends.
Care in preparation will pay off bigtime.

Its also possible on a table to make the cut in two or three passes, just by moving the fence back each time. which will help to reduce tear out.
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-11-2017, 04:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sunnybob View Post
that would be one hell of a cut with a handheld.
I would use a router table and featherboards, and extension support trestle at both ends.
Care in preparation will pay off bigtime.

Its also possible on a table to make the cut in two or three passes, just by moving the fence back each time. which will help to reduce tear out.
If you are referring to the cut I described Bob I've done it many times. Remember that when going handheld the bit is not trapped in any way so if it does start climb cutting the bit just pushes the router away from the work. Feather boards won't make any difference in regard to tear out and narrow progressive cuts don't always prevent it either. If the grain happens to run at an angle inward at the corner it's possible to rip a sizable chunk out of it. The piece of wood he describes is one I wouldn't want to take a chance on tearing out as it would be very expensive to replace.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-11-2017, 04:55 PM
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Bob, that piece is 6 feet long and would be pretty heavy - you'd need a fairly large table or some other way of supporting that length without it tipping. Handheld, multiple light passes doing the ends first, then the long side is the way I'd go.

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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-12-2017, 01:28 PM
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Correct me if I'm wrong but I think routing the end grain last helps.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-12-2017, 01:36 PM
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-12-2017, 03:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TenGees View Post
Correct me if I'm wrong but I think routing the end grain last helps.
I like 1st...
better results more often...
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This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-12-2017, 03:35 PM
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Screw two pieces on the back of the mantle blank at the ends, one so you start cutting before you get to the mantle and the other to backup the grain and prevent tear out when finishing the cut. The screw holes will be on the back and never be seen.
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