tray with raised panel bit? - Router Forums
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post #1 of 24 (permalink) Old 07-01-2017, 06:50 PM Thread Starter
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Default tray with raised panel bit?

Hello everyone! I'm trying to figure out how to make a tray that gradually angles out from the center to the sides - sort of a shallow tray that be used for serving food/snacks. I don't want to use a bowl bit and a template because I don't want a 90 degree side - more like 20 degrees or so from the bottom.

Of course, I could also use gouges and scoop it out, but I plan on making a series of these for gifts and would prefer an approach with a bit more scale.

I thought I'd try a raised panel bit (without a bearing) on my router table and hollow out the tray. But, it seems dangerous and I would be taking out a ton of material.

Any ideas?
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post #2 of 24 (permalink) Old 07-01-2017, 07:06 PM Thread Starter
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Thinking of using a bit profile like this, but I'm not sure this is going to work.
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post #3 of 24 (permalink) Old 07-01-2017, 07:19 PM
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sure.. why not..
it'll work well on the perimeter if to take small bites till you get to your happiness...
usr a planer or bowl bit to rough out the rest...
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post #4 of 24 (permalink) Old 07-01-2017, 08:48 PM
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Only problem I can see with it is that you will be cutting "blind". Your work piece will be on top of your bit, and you won't know for sure where the bit is. Consequently it would be difficult to cut to the edge of your bowl, without going thru that edge.
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post #5 of 24 (permalink) Old 07-01-2017, 09:07 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah, it's blind and that concerns me, too. I plan on addressing that by marking lines on the fence for where I need to start/stop. I could also do stop blocks. It's a plunge cut to start (lowering the piece onto the bit) and even with small bites, I'm concerned about big time chatter and tear out. This bit is a big chunk of steel.

The trays will be longish and slender -- about 6 x 18 and 3/4 thick, so I'll need to do one pass on each of four sides, then raise the bit and continue. The short sides/cross grain concern me the most.
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post #6 of 24 (permalink) Old 07-01-2017, 09:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianS View Post
Only problem I can see with it is that you will be cutting "blind". Your work piece will be on top of your bit, and you won't know for sure where the bit is. Consequently it would be difficult to cut to the edge of your bowl, without going thru that edge.
One time I had to duplicate a highchair tray that had a similar inside edge.. I had a pin router set up so made a template and struck it to the bottom of the tray stock. I took out most of the material to final depth in the center , then changed the template to make the outer edge cut in multiple depth ( height of bit). I put a larger insert in the table around the bit so that the chips could be sucked down through the table. If you are going to make several of these it would pay to get a pin router set up for your table.
Best Sellers - Daisy Pin Router Attachment Packages

https://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shop...html/1325.html

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I had the MLCS model , now I have the Veritas both are good.

Herb
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post #7 of 24 (permalink) Old 07-01-2017, 09:32 PM
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cut cross grain 1st..
use stop blocks...
seal end grain 1st to reduce chip/tearout...

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
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post #8 of 24 (permalink) Old 07-01-2017, 10:38 PM
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If youre going to use a router table, you must use stop blocks. No way can you control the wood to stop where you think it should be.
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post #9 of 24 (permalink) Old 07-01-2017, 10:39 PM
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If youre going to use a router table, you must use stop blocks. No way can you control the wood to stop where you think it should be.
or start...
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This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

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Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
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post #10 of 24 (permalink) Old 07-01-2017, 11:10 PM
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I would probably do it handheld with a plunge router. I looked for a rub collar https://www.woodstockint.com/product...rs/rub-collars the size of that bit diameter but anything that comes close is 3/4" ID or larger for a shaper but I might try making one out of something like UHMW plastic. If you clamp the plastic to a drill press table and drilled a half inch hole then changed to a 3" hole saw to cut it out you would be pretty close to the right size. You would then slip the homemade bearing on the bit shaft. Then you could make a cutout in a template that was actual size and it would be very close.

This might last a few trays. Better would be to get a 1/2 by 3/4 or 1" bearing to put on the bit shaft and drill a corresponding center hole and turn it into a rub collar. This homemade piece would then slip over that bearing. That would last for a long time.

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