Help with floating tenon joint. - Router Forums
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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-12-2017, 11:02 AM Thread Starter
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Default Help with floating tenon joint.

I am making a picnic basket out of Ash and I have several joints to make and a loose tendon joint is the only was I can figure to do it. The loose tendon is 1/4" T X 3/4" wide and 3/4" deep. The Ash is 1/2" T X 1 1/4" wide and the mortise needs to go in the end. I have been putting the mortise in the edges using a 1/4" spiral bit in my router table. Putting a mortise in the end seems a little scary to me. I sure could use some help.

Don in Murfreesboro,Tn.

Measure once cut twice and it's still to short.
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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-12-2017, 11:08 AM
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Use a 1/8" spiral and, hard board for the tenon.
You didn't specify the length of the piece that gets the end mortise. You'll ned a carrier board to hold the piece and ride the fence, with a 90 degree stop. I'd use toggle clamps attached to the stop.
The other alternative is to rout or saw a tenon on the end and forget the loose tenon.

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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-12-2017, 11:11 AM
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hand drill using a brad point bit to hog it out..
clean to size w/ a chisel..

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If only new layers hadn't been added....

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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-12-2017, 11:44 AM
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How about using a fluted wood dowel pin?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/General-...0014/202252099
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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-12-2017, 11:56 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gene Howe View Post
Use a 1/8" spiral and, hard board for the tenon.
You didn't specify the length of the piece that gets the end mortise. You'll ned a carrier board to hold the piece and ride the fence, with a 90 degree stop. I'd use toggle clamps attached to the stop.
The other alternative is to rout or saw a tenon on the end and forget the loose tenon.
Gene I have a doweling jig but the spacing is to wide. The length is 19", 10 3/4", and 11 and something. I forget right now. I have a 1/8" spiral bit but no hard board. Of coarse I could get some hard board, no problem.

Don in Murfreesboro,Tn.

Measure once cut twice and it's still to short.
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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-12-2017, 12:55 PM
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Don

No need for a doweling jig if you use dowel centers - you can space your dowels any way you want - I've got a set and although I don't use dowel that often, when I do, these come in handy. I have a similar set to these - they're not that expensive. Just drill a hole in one piece, place your dowel centre in, butt the two pieces in and give a slight push. The pin on the end will tell you where to drill the matching hole.

Set of Dowel Centers - Package of 8 | Rockler Woodworking and Hardware
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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-12-2017, 06:15 PM
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It's only a picnic basket so I think I would go with Vince's method. The dowel centers and dowels keep it simple which is all you should need for a project that size. I made a plunge router jig for mortising the end of some cross members for a screen door not too long ago but the time it would take to do it just isn't warranted in this situation.

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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-12-2017, 10:20 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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It's only a picnic basket so I think I would go with Vince's method. The dowel centers and dowels keep it simple which is all you should need for a project that size. I made a plunge router jig for mortising the end of some cross members for a screen door not too long ago but the time it would take to do it just isn't warranted in this situation.
Chuck I think I am going to make a jig. I found one that will not be hard to make and I will be able to use it again and again. I really don't think it will take that long to make.

Thanks

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Don in Murfreesboro,Tn.

Measure once cut twice and it's still to short.
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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-13-2017, 08:26 AM
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Don,

Use your scroll saw to cut a template for your router and guide bushing. Attach two pieces of scrap wood to the bottom of this template so you can quickly locate the template in the right position on the end of your work. Drive a flat head screw through the template into the work, somewhere in the area of your work that won't be routed to hold the template in place, and then rout your mortise. It helps to plunge many holes and then go back and clean out the mortise to reduce the loading on the router bit. The mortise will be much more accurate if you make them this way.



By the way, a tendon is a part of your body. A tenon is the piece of your project that fits into the mortise that you make.

Did you see the photos that I posted in your thread "Port-A-Mate review"? Please look if you haven't already.

Charley

Central North Carolina

Last edited by CharleyL; 11-13-2017 at 08:33 AM.
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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-13-2017, 09:13 AM Thread Starter
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Don,

Use your scroll saw to cut a template for your router and guide bushing. Attach two pieces of scrap wood to the bottom of this template so you can quickly locate the template in the right position on the end of your work. Drive a flat head screw through the template into the work, somewhere in the area of your work that won't be routed to hold the template in place, and then rout your mortise. It helps to plunge many holes and then go back and clean out the mortise to reduce the loading on the router bit. The mortise will be much more accurate if you make them this way.



By the way, a tendon is a part of your body. A tenon is the piece of your project that fits into the mortise that you make.

Did you see the photos that I posted in your thread "Port-A-Mate review"? Please look if you haven't already.

Charley
Charley I am not good at spelling, woodworking and many other things. If I wasn't born so darn good looking I don't know what would have happened.
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Don in Murfreesboro,Tn.

Measure once cut twice and it's still to short.
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