Ideal hole diameter for router table - Router Forums
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post #1 of 23 (permalink) Old 12-03-2017, 01:06 PM Thread Starter
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Default Ideal hole diameter for router table

I'm making a router lift and a machinist would charge $45 to cut a large hole in the 1/4" aluminum top plate so it could accept aftermarket drop in center plates. I decided on cutting a single1 5/8" hole, and that would fit a 1 1/2" chamfer bit... largest bit I'd ever use. I don't ever plan on routing or rounding over anything tiny 1/4x1/4 inch stock either. I suppose small thin materials do need more support than my one size fits all hole.
Any issues with the choice I made? (yes it's too late now)
My router is a PC 690LR so no, I'm not ever gonna use a large wing type shaper bit.

Last edited by ranman; 12-03-2017 at 01:15 PM.
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post #2 of 23 (permalink) Old 12-03-2017, 01:32 PM
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at least 3'' and make the hole smaller as required w/ inserts...
don't dedicate, cover you bases for later use as in thumbnail and door bits...
.


why not mill the plate to accept a router plate...
suggest you stay away from the phenolic type plate.. they sag over time...
.

I suspect that ¼'' will be too thin unless you underlay or torsion it..
have you allowed for miter and T slots???
are you also aware that un-anodized aluminum will oxidize and that oxidation will contaminate your material/project making for issues..

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
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post #3 of 23 (permalink) Old 12-03-2017, 03:19 PM Thread Starter
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I haven't even designed the table top yet. Re-thinking my hole size, I can build a tiny lip screwed on from the underside of my plate and make a smaller drop in ring from the same 1/4" plate to reduce the size of the hole.
How does one decide the correct or best bit to hole relationship? I'm sure if the hole was .003 larger than the bit, that would be ideal but also ridiculous in the real world.
Nothing is anodized or going to be anodized. Polished up smooth and waxed is as good as it's gonna get. I read about clear or epoxy coatings, but those cause more issues that are hard to correct.
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post #4 of 23 (permalink) Old 12-03-2017, 03:25 PM
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I just get the hole side as close as I an...
a larger open hole make changing bits a lot easier...

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
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post #5 of 23 (permalink) Old 12-03-2017, 03:38 PM
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I had the Rockler Group A plate for the Bosch 1617 router. The hole was too small to fit a raised panel cutter through it. I had to make some temporary parts to attach to the fence on each side of the cutter. Then I had to make an auxiliary table top and screw/clamp it to the existing table so I could mount the cutter from the top side. It was a pain in the arse but it worked.

I solved that problem by buying a Kreg insert plate. It has an opening of 3 1/2 inches for the various inserts. The cutter fits up through the opening just fine. Lot of hassle could have been eliminated by purchasing the right tool to start with.

The doors turned out nice and the little lady was happy. That is all that counts.
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Last edited by MT Stringer; 12-03-2017 at 03:40 PM.
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post #6 of 23 (permalink) Old 12-03-2017, 03:43 PM Thread Starter
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Right now, I'll be able to change the bits using one wrench on the top side and one held on the under side. I'm thinking of a way to build in a permanently mounted spring loaded "wrench" of sorts on the underside of the top plate to engage the lower nut. Again, I don't have any plans for a bit larger than the hole diameter that I have in the top right now. If I ever do, I can disassemble the top plate and have some machine work done to it. The machine work plus the aftermarket plates is too expensive to justify for my occasional router use. I already have over $150 in the lift's parts including taps, screws, bronze bushings, aluminum plate etc.
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post #7 of 23 (permalink) Old 12-03-2017, 03:52 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MT Stringer View Post
I had the Rockler Group A plate for the Bosch 1617 router. The hole was too small to fit a raised panel cutter through it. I had to make some temporary parts to attach to the fence on each side of the cutter. Then I had to make an auxiliary table top and screw/clamp it to the existing table so I could mount the cutter from the top side. It was a pain in the arse but it worked.

I solved that problem by buying a Kreg insert plate. It has an opening of 3 1/2 inches for the various inserts. The cutter fits up through the opening just fine. Lot of hassle could have been eliminated by purchasing the right tool to start with.

The doors turned out nice and the little lady was happy. That is all that counts.
I don't buy stuff..... I make stuff. I make stuff even if it's not cost effective. For less than twice what I have into this contraption, I could have bought one ready to go with more bells and whistles.
.......maybe I'll add a USB port just to make it look hi tec.
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post #8 of 23 (permalink) Old 12-03-2017, 03:57 PM
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170$...
serious fine quality and CS/TS...
JessEmâ„¢ Rout-R-Lift IIâ„¢ - Lee Valley Tools

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
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post #9 of 23 (permalink) Old 12-03-2017, 04:12 PM Thread Starter
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Stick486, you mentioned the plate possibly being too thin. Naw, plenty strong for my 6# router and it's weight support locations.
Here's the beginnings once I was able to assemble the main parts. Look how far out on the plate the 1/2 inch support rods are. All the weight is supported by those rods which are 3" or less from the edges. The table top will have supports cross ways directly under the plate edges. I'm thinking 1" x 1" heavy wall (.160") square aluminum tubing as the table frame with MDF or particle board for the top. The unit has come a long ways since this image was taken. The round hole drawn in the top didn't get made. It's 1 5/8" now. One of these days I'll get more photos. I'm not digital yet, so I need to borrow a camera.
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Last edited by ranman; 12-03-2017 at 04:19 PM.
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post #10 of 23 (permalink) Old 12-03-2017, 04:36 PM
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too thin to put in miter and T slots...
what you have is nicely engineered and well bade...
ggom likes this.

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”

Last edited by Stick486; 12-03-2017 at 04:50 PM.
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