Plywood edge curve - Page 3 - Router Forums
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post #21 of 34 (permalink) Old 12-22-2017, 06:31 PM
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Stick's advice is good. I would definitely add a 1/4 inch Masonite on the top, screwed in place, not glued, so you can replace it easily. If you are going to use that lip for clamping (as I would and do), then I would seriously consider gluing a second edge of good ply or even better, a good flat 3/4 to 1 inch pine under the top. The extra thickness will support the vise very well and keep the edge flat. I would actually glue this on and add a few screws to lock it in place while the glue dries. The edge of my bench is almost 4 inches thick, using the method I described, and it's both flat and strong.

My table is from Harbor Freight, so the top is actually 3/4 thick with about a 3 inch Maple lip around the top. I used 1 inch pine to build up the edge, so the pine I placed under that lip is about 2 1/4 inches wide. Because the lip is really thick (three layers), I was able to put a fold down section behind it. Because the table has drawers directly under the top, I didn't add a front vise. But today I'd sacrifice one drawer to put a vise there. A front vise is wonderful for working with a hand plane. So your thickening the edge can be selectively extended under the top to allow you to add a front vise in the future. Adding a few strips of hardwood as trusses will give you years of extra service.

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post #22 of 34 (permalink) Old 12-22-2017, 06:40 PM
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I had a piece of the ply I think you are using. To my dismay, it had a center layer of strips of bamboo. Split, separated, splintered like mad. Hate the stuff, who ever bought it at HD should be fired. Now stick to Baltic Birch as much as possible.

Even though you're repurposing the stand, you can use almost all the suggestions to make the top.

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post #23 of 34 (permalink) Old 12-22-2017, 06:40 PM Thread Starter
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When I built my latest router table with a single layer of mdf for a top I left an overhang on all sides for clamping and it will be no issue for what you want to do. I added build-up under the edges but that was only so I could add a hardwood edging to it and I wanted more contact area to glue it to than just the 3/4 thickness. I also agree with adding something hard and slippery to the top if you plan on using it as an infeed/outfeed. I capped my RT with HPL.
See, my problem is twofold. First, I'm reading all these bad experiences people have had with the type of plywood I bought, and second, I'm a worrier. By time I stop thinking about this tonight and sleep on it, by in the morning this problem will have expanded in my mind to the point that I will see this plywood as what you would buy to build chinese pagoda roofs.
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post #24 of 34 (permalink) Old 12-23-2017, 09:39 AM
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See, my problem is twofold. First, I'm reading all these bad experiences people have had with the type of plywood I bought, and second, I'm a worrier. By time I stop thinking about this tonight and sleep on it, by in the morning this problem will have expanded in my mind to the point that I will see this plywood as what you would buy to build chinese pagoda roofs.
Stop worrying, Duane, it's just a workbench top. Make it with what you have on hand and use it for a while. It's only a piece of plywood we're talking about here. If it turns out to have problems you'll have the user experience to know what will suit your needs better and you can re-think, re-design, and make another one. Consider this first attempt to be a prototype (that might last forever).

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post #25 of 34 (permalink) Old 12-23-2017, 10:13 AM
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When I built my 2' x 8' workbench about 40 years ago I did just as Charley suggested and added a piece of 1/4" Masonite to the top and attached it with counter-sunk flat head screws so I would be able to change it later. I haven't changed it yet so I can't give a report as to how long a top like that will last.
I have it on good authority. They last 41 years to the day. They then immediately disintegrate.
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post #26 of 34 (permalink) Old 12-23-2017, 10:50 AM
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Duane I'd repeat everything Oliver said to you word for word. If you are worried abiut the plywood de-laminating to some extent and not being flat after then follow his earlier advice to add masonite. Carefully countersink the screws so that they are just below the surface and when you place the screws drive them into solid wood cross members below the top. That will eliminate any chance of de-laminating. Like Oliver said, it's only a work top and you'll learn from it if it works or doesn't work. Usually tops can be replaced without starting over from scratch so use what you got and see what happens.
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post #27 of 34 (permalink) Old 12-24-2017, 09:30 AM
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If you use the masonite top, give it a coat of wax so glue sqeeze out doesn't stick. Gaffboat is right about the plywood.

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post #28 of 34 (permalink) Old 12-24-2017, 12:39 PM
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See, my problem is twofold. First, I'm reading all these bad experiences people have had with the type of plywood I bought, and second, I'm a worrier. By time I stop thinking about this tonight and sleep on it, by in the morning this problem will have expanded in my mind to the point that I will see this plywood as what you would buy to build chinese pagoda roofs.
Duane, I have a son that finished university with engineering physics and nuclear power generation in his degree. My simple mind thought that this was the greatest thing since sliced bread. I was so proud and thought he could do just about anything, he was so clever. I came up with what was thought of as the school of hard knocks. My son won't attempt a thing, and I mean anything, without at first a study, a detailed analysis, more analysis, a ton of research, likely sleepless nights and loads of what I call just plain procrastination and finally asking of me, what I thought. I always say do it, just do it. Please do something. It's always better to do something than nothing. And if it's wrong or not quite what you wanted, do it again, using the lesson learned. I've seen what over-thinking can do. I don't mean just do anything helter skelter. Think about it, get hints on-line, check out a few examples and then just do it. You'll feel a whole lot better and you get a chance to perhaps laugh at yourself when you look back.
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post #29 of 34 (permalink) Old 12-24-2017, 12:44 PM
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Hey Duane - I put less thought into buying a new car than you do into a router table top . Just do it - Merry Christmas

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post #30 of 34 (permalink) Old 12-24-2017, 01:09 PM
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Duane, I have a son that finished university with engineering physics and nuclear power generation in his degree. My simple mind thought that this was the greatest thing since sliced bread. I was so proud and thought he could do just about anything, he was so clever. I came up with what was thought of as the school of hard knocks. My son won't attempt a thing, and I mean anything, without at first a study, a detailed analysis, more analysis, a ton of research, likely sleepless nights and loads of what I call just plain procrastination and finally asking of me, what I thought. I always say do it, just do it. Please do something. It's always better to do something than nothing. And if it's wrong or not quite what you wanted, do it again, using the lesson learned. I've seen what over-thinking can do. I don't mean just do anything helter skelter. Think about it, get hints on-line, check out a few examples and then just do it. You'll feel a whole lot better and you get a chance to perhaps laugh at yourself when you look back.
ROTFLMAO ,Well put, I have seen that so many times with many people, DWG.1, Rev.1,Rev.2,Rev.3, Rev.4,.............Rev.10, OH to heck with it, I will just buy one. HAHAHAHAHAHA
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