Plywood edge curve - Router Forums
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post #1 of 34 (permalink) Old 12-22-2017, 07:56 AM Thread Starter
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Default Plywood edge curve

I donít know where to post this and Iím sorry if itís in the wrong place. I just wanted to ask what is your faith that a piece of 3/4 plywood that overhangs an edge and is unsupported there after wonít cup upwards. It will protrude outwards less than 2Ē and run along the side of the bench for about 7 inches, and be unsupported anywhere in that area, relying on its own stiffness to hold it flat. What makes me worry that it may cup upwards is that this is part of a workbench top and it will be bolted to the supports centered at 2 3/4 back from that outermost edge. Will the pressure from the bolts cause the edge to rear up? This is a single layer thick top.
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post #2 of 34 (permalink) Old 12-22-2017, 08:02 AM
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Quality plywood won't move for those dimensions...
how many ply plwood are you using and what type/species...

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and TaxidermyĒ
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post #3 of 34 (permalink) Old 12-22-2017, 08:11 AM Thread Starter
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Honestly don’t know what kind. I went to Home Depot and bought a sheet that was completely clear on both sides of any blemishes. The veneer seems soft though, really soft texture wise, almost like touching suede leather.

As for plys, there are 5, plus the thin veneers. It is 3/4 thick.

Only mark I see is in the edge and it says GRADO B
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post #4 of 34 (permalink) Old 12-22-2017, 08:19 AM Thread Starter
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There’s a mark beside the words that either could be a letter A or a black triangle. Can’t tell. It just looks like this:

A GRADO B
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post #5 of 34 (permalink) Old 12-22-2017, 08:24 AM
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do you know where it was made...

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and TaxidermyĒ
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post #6 of 34 (permalink) Old 12-22-2017, 08:31 AM
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I think you will be OK. It would be even better if you used a higher quality plywood with more layers.

I have built birch plywood cabinets and didn't want the end grain to show, so I made 3/4 X 3/4" strips of solid soft maple (has a similar grain and color of birch), then covered the plywood end grain with these strips. I used biscuits and glue to attach them and then a flush trim router bit to trim them even with the plywood surface. Doing this not only covered the plywood end grain, but also strengthened the plywood edges and helped prevent the plywood from warping, kind of like a breadboard edge on a table, so it might be worth doing. Cross grain gluing isn't a problem when doing this, because of the stability of plywood. I have never had one of these joints fail.

The A Grado B means that one side is A grade and the opposite side is B grade. A grade is a smooth unblemished surface. B grade can have minor blemishes, but the surface is smooth. Sometimes they patch knots and blemishes to make the surface smooth. This is acceptable for a grade B surface, but not for a grade A surface.

If you bought this plywood from a big box store, the surface veneers are likely paper thin, so do as little sanding as possible or you might sand through the surface veneer. The higher the quality of the plywood, the more internal layers it will have and the flatter and more stable it will be. The plywood called "Baltic Birch" will have many thin layers and no internal voids in any of the layers, so it is more stable than plywood with fewer layers and internal voids, but true Baltic Birch plywood is metric dimensioned and about a 60" X 60" sheet size.

Charley

Central North Carolina

Last edited by CharleyL; 12-22-2017 at 08:47 AM.
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post #7 of 34 (permalink) Old 12-22-2017, 10:49 AM Thread Starter
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I looked it up on the HD website and it’s called Sande plywood (not sanded but Sande).

I thought I was buying Purebond when I got it. Guess not. Oh well, it’s a mobile workbench, not an heirloom. Just has to work, and if it gets skinned up (cause this surface takes dents and scratches easily) then it will just look more the part.

I’m making a (takes a deep breath and sounds like Ralphie in The Christmas Story) mobile workbench/table saw infeed-outfeed/router table/jobsite sawhorse/sanding platform/miter saw station/small projects assembly and finishing station........phew!

I’ll post pics when it’s done. Right now I’m drawing designs.
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post #8 of 34 (permalink) Old 12-22-2017, 11:02 AM
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I dunno, Duane...anything that big isn't gonna be so mobile...

I would think you won't have problems with those dimensions...but consider exposure to sun, liquids, rain, un-level surfaces, and other plywood-toxic stuff in using the plywood you have. Dings, scratches, dents, cracks in the external veneer, etc... will affect its performance over time. Look at it this way...it will require maintenance and replacement because it's inevitable that you will need to use it outside, in the cold, in the rain, in the humid, etc...

Best...looking forward to the pics...
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post #9 of 34 (permalink) Old 12-22-2017, 11:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Duane Bledsoe View Post
I looked it up on the HD website and itís called Sande plywood (not sanded but Sande).

I thought I was buying Purebond when I got it. Guess not. Oh well, itís a mobile workbench, not an heirloom. Just has to work, and if it gets skinned up (cause this surface takes dents and scratches easily) then it will just look more the part.

Iím making a (takes a deep breath and sounds like Ralphie in The Christmas Story) mobile workbench/table saw infeed-outfeed/router table/jobsite sawhorse/sanding platform/miter saw station/small projects assembly and finishing station........phew!

Iíll post pics when itís done. Right now Iím drawing designs.

Duane...
SEAL IT WELL BEFORE YOU INSTALL IT...
cover the top w/ tempered hardboard...
use really large HEAVY DUTY castors...
found this...
there's pages of links all saying the same...
Sandeplywood. Anyone know anything about it?

Sandeply Problems - Carpentry - Contractor Talk

saw this post..
It's like the pot luck of plywood...usually made of some crappy wood from Malaysia or China and if you're lucky the veneer won't bubble after painting it. It has a nice clear appearance and the price is tempting for those bargain hunting, but I would never recommend it for anything other than "fun" experimental projects. I've used it to rip for shelving.
another post..
Interior glue dissolves in water. Might be ok on the first outing if you seal it with epoxy. I wouldn't trust it on the second trip though.

now that I've read more... I did use ones... no.. make that twice... 1st and last time...
dampness does make it come apart...
and it'll sag under it's own weight in the horizontal...

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and TaxidermyĒ
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post #10 of 34 (permalink) Old 12-22-2017, 12:01 PM
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Duanne, what is the overhang going to be used for?

On a previous work bench, I had an over hang of 1 1/2 inches. Then I attached a second piece underneath the outside edge to make it 1 1/2 inches thick. Then I added an edge piece made of oak all around the top. So, I wound up with two inches overhang and strong enough for clamping purposes.

Just something for you to think about if it would work into your plans.
Mike
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