B&D 1hp router won't start - Router Forums
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-06-2018, 02:34 PM Thread Starter
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Default B&D 1hp router won't start

The switch area is clean and the only way to test it would be to take the motor apart or strip part of the wire. This switch is obsolete anyhow.
I don't believe it has had much use.
The spindle isn't stuck. What else could it be?
Thanks.
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-06-2018, 02:40 PM
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Dust in the switch...
Brushes...
Cold solder joint on terminals...
Open power cord...
Receptacle...

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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-06-2018, 04:55 PM
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Welcome aboard.

Does it have a spindle lock switch on top of the motor? If so, is it in the unlocked position? I know, just had to ask. That has got me a couple of times.

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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-07-2018, 03:29 AM
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If you have access to a continuity tester you should check the electrical continuity between the plug top and the switch first as electrical cords can have a broken wire inside. If that is OK I'd test the switch as they can clog up with dust or just plain burn out. On the B&D routers I've seen the switch is generally just a plain toggle switch. After that I'd remove the brushes and check them for excessive wear - if they are very short replace them, there are lots of people on eBay selling compatible replacements

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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-07-2018, 03:37 AM
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see if any of this helps....
..
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Electric Power Tool Parts 101.pdf (579.6 KB, 38 views)
File Type: pdf Diagnosing Electric Power Tools 101.pdf (386.8 KB, 33 views)
File Type: pdf Is it the Brushes or the Switch.pdf (182.5 KB, 30 views)

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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-07-2018, 09:25 AM
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My bet is debris hanging up the brushes.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-07-2018, 01:12 PM
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I had a similar problem, with a small pump. Worked great, then stopped. Turned out the cord had been stepped on or something, and was no longer completely plugged in. And that is just how simple it was.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-07-2018, 01:48 PM
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Just remembered. One of mine stopped, and when I opened it up found out that a wire was a bit shorter than it should have been, and the solder connection had snapped. a 1/4" longer wire and likely would not have happened.

"It ain't what you're told, it's what you know." - Granny Weatherwax
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-07-2018, 09:34 PM
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Welcome to our sawdust pile B_A50. How about providing your first name (or at least a name that you want to be called) and some information about you. Go to "Edit Profile" in the upper right of your screen. Click on this and it will take you there. We have too many N/A named members here already.

My first question - have you tried plugging the router into another "known to be good outlet"? This is frequently the easiest problem to fix. The second - does the plug and wire appear to be in good condition?

If that 1 hp B&D router is the same shiny aluminum cased black top model that I have, mine is almost 50 years old now, and still going strong. it has a standard toggle switch for the power on/off switch, so any of the better hardware stores should have a switch just like it. The only time that my router ever failed to start was when one of the brushes got stuck in the sleeve by a piece of saw dust or something and all it needed was cleaning. The brush caps are easy to get to (black backlite round covers with a screwdriver slot) , on the outside near the top of the motor. Be careful, there is a spring under the cap. Remove the caps and pull on the spring to pull the brush out to examine it, but remember it's orientation so you can put it back in the same orientation because of the worn curved bottom end. Clean the brush and the hole. A clean dry Q Tip pushed into the hole and rotated will work for this. If you have compressed air, blow out the motor through the brush holes and also the air vents. If the brush (not the spring and brush) is shorter than 1/4-3/8" you will need new ones. Dewalt has been marketing this same router for years, but with a yellow top now. The brushes for it will fit, or you can just match up the old brushes with new generic brushes at the hardware store. (After almost 50 years, the brushes in my router are still good and the router only needed cleaning the timest that I've had this trouble). Then re-install the brushes and try the router again. I'm almost willing to bet that the brushes are worn, stuck, or the switch is bad. Without even going to DeWalt for parts, you can likely fix this router from hardware store parts and save money.

If it isn't like I've described, we will need a model number or photo of it in order to identify it. You can post photos if they are on your computer. Go to "Manage Attachments" next to the "post button" and you will find the needed screens for uploading and attaching your photo to the post that you are creating. You won't see them together until you post the message.

Charley
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Last edited by CharleyL; 02-07-2018 at 09:39 PM.
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-08-2018, 11:58 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CharleyL View Post
Welcome to our sawdust pile B_A50. How about providing your first name (or at least a name that you want to be called) and some information about you. Go to "Edit Profile" in the upper right of your screen. Click on this and it will take you there. We have too many N/A named members here already.

My first question - have you tried plugging the router into another "known to be good outlet"? This is frequently the easiest problem to fix. The second - does the plug and wire appear to be in good condition?

If that 1 hp B&D router is the same shiny aluminum cased black top model that I have, mine is almost 50 years old now, and still going strong. it has a standard toggle switch for the power on/off switch, so any of the better hardware stores should have a switch just like it. The only time that my router ever failed to start was when one of the brushes got stuck in the sleeve by a piece of saw dust or something and all it needed was cleaning. The brush caps are easy to get to (black backlite round covers with a screwdriver slot) , on the outside near the top of the motor. Be careful, there is a spring under the cap. Remove the caps and pull on the spring to pull the brush out to examine it, but remember it's orientation so you can put it back in the same orientation because of the worn curved bottom end. Clean the brush and the hole. A clean dry Q Tip pushed into the hole and rotated will work for this. If you have compressed air, blow out the motor through the brush holes and also the air vents. If the brush (not the spring and brush) is shorter than 1/4-3/8" you will need new ones. Dewalt has been marketing this same router for years, but with a yellow top now. The brushes for it will fit, or you can just match up the old brushes with new generic brushes at the hardware store. (After almost 50 years, the brushes in my router are still good and the router only needed cleaning the timest that I've had this trouble). Then re-install the brushes and try the router again. I'm almost willing to bet that the brushes are worn, stuck, or the switch is bad. Without even going to DeWalt for parts, you can likely fix this router from hardware store parts and save money.

If it isn't like I've described, we will need a model number or photo of it in order to identify it. You can post photos if they are on your computer. Go to "Manage Attachments" next to the "post button" and you will find the needed screens for uploading and attaching your photo to the post that you are creating. You won't see them together until you post the message.

Charley
Charley,
I posted my intro if you are interested.
Your router sounds about the same, although mine has a trigger not a toggle.
I cleaned it up and looked at the brushes. It turned out to be a twistem wasn't making a good connection and now it works great.

I can't seem to post anything using my phone though. I contacted the site but never got a response. Maybe you can help. Lots of good suggestions. Thanks. Bob
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