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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-25-2018, 08:03 PM Thread Starter
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Default Miter saw question

I realize this is not a router question but,
I am looking at purchasing a compound sliding miter saw. Is there a reason I would want a 12” over a 10”? Can I get by with the smaller? Or do I need the bigger?

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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-25-2018, 08:12 PM
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Joe,

What are you planning to do? That is what determines what is better. I have a 10 inch slider, and if I could go back in time, I might have chosen a 12 inch "non-slider".

Don't get me wrong, I love my saw, but the number of times I have needed that capacity has been few. When I was putting in wide plank flooring it was heaven sent, but for most of the day to day cuts in my shop I don't need the capacity. I cannot imagine what I would need a 12 inch slider for.

My saw is the 'old style', with the slide rods extending way out the back. this means my saw must sit far away from a wall in order to retract all the way.

Maybe if I had one of the newer style with the rods in front I would feel differently.

Hope this helps,
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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-25-2018, 08:17 PM
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I have both...
the 10'' gets used better than 95% of the time..
the 12 is used on larger crown moldings ...
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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-25-2018, 08:27 PM
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if you need a bit more width cut, add an auxiliary table base to the saw..

also.. blades matter...


.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf BLADE HOOK ANGLE.pdf (375.0 KB, 24 views)

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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-25-2018, 08:47 PM
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I had a Dewalt 12 inch and sold it because the blade always deflected so angles weren't ever accurate. I replace it with what I considder the best sliding miter, the 10 inch Bosch. Amazing accuracy right out of the box. However, you MUST use either an engineer's square or preferably, a Wixey digital angle finder to make certain that blade angle is correct. The one I have is about 5 years old and remains a great tool.

It is a compound sliding miter, and it spits out vast amounts of sawdust. I made a framework over it, on which hangs a shower curtain, gathered at the bottom and taped tight to a 4 inch dust collection hose. Greatly reduces stray sawdust. Also learned to pull the saw toward me to make a scoring cut, then push it back through for the bulk of the cut. This provides a channel for sawdust to go back into the shower curtain collector. I am thinking of using some sheet aluminum to extend the dust collection port down closer to the base to clear out more sawdust through the 2.5 inch port.

I'm very happy with every Bosch tool I've purchased so far.

I think the space saving of the newer models without the rails is a nice thing, but for the money, the rail model is unbeatable. No longer much of a DeWalt fan. You get what you pay for. Hope that gives you want you want to know. Accuracy, smooth operation
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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-25-2018, 09:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kp91 View Post
Joe,

What are you planning to do? That is what determines what is better. I have a 10 inch slider, and if I could go back in time, I might have chosen a 12 inch "non-slider".
Like was said, depends on what you plan on doing. When my non-slider died, I bought a slider, which didn't thrill me so later sold it, and got another non-slider. My present saw is 10", which is usually sufficient for anything and everything, but if I get another it will be 12" - any longer cuts, I'll just use some sort of guide, and a circular saw. Just get whatever makes you happiest.

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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-25-2018, 09:55 PM
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I have a 12" Milwaukee. If a 10" had been on sale I would have bought it because I already have blades that size but I don't regret buying the 12". The instructions say that it should be accurate right out of the box and it is. It has a digital angle readout built in that reads to 1/10 degree and it is also accurate. It dodn't come with a laser guide but that is no big deal in my opinion. It does have a good LED work light built in that illuminates the work area very well. I paid $400 at the HD for it.

If you are having trouble cutting accurate miters the problem is often the blade and not the saw. I was trying to cut miters with an old Makita chop saw and they were terrible. I added blade stabilizers and they changed to very good.
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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-25-2018, 09:56 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for your input. ill be making tables, bookshelves, random things for church and signs as wedding presents. with that in mind, I don't think I need to make cuts that ill need 12 for, unless you disagree . my next project is a massive work bench I need more space. im looking to spend under $200. I may get a porter cable or stop by harbor freight. I know you swear by Bosch and dewalt. I just don't have that kind of money right now. I just need something that will work any suggestions?
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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-25-2018, 10:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Pastorshobby View Post
im looking to spend under $200. I may get a porter cable or stop by harbor freight. I know you swear by Bosch and dewalt. I just don't have that kind of money right now. I just need something that will work any suggestions?
Hehehe This likely wouldn't work with anything thicker than 1". Sometimes I mark a cut, rough cut maybe 1/8" along that line, then tack a straightedge along the line, then use my router (in a table) with a flush trim bit to make a straight cut. Hey, it works, it costs practically nothing, and is really practical for inside cuts.
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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-26-2018, 06:05 AM
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I have a Harbor Freight 12" and I like it. I did have to do some realigning of the fence to get it to make a straight cut, but that wasn't hard. I do want to get a Wixey so that I can accurately line up when I tilt the blade, but I also want that for my table saw.
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