Raised panel help - Router Forums
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-08-2018, 09:48 AM Thread Starter
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Default Raised panel help

Yesterday I made raised panel (stiles and rails) templates one set I made out of 1" stock turned out good but, the one I made out of 3/4" stock only had a ledge instead of a grove on the back.
Am I doing something wrong.
I thought that these bits were made for 3/4" stock.
P.S. I'm trying.
Thank you
Stuart
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-08-2018, 10:01 AM
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Were you cutting free hand or on the router table? Did you reset your height for the difference in thickness of your board?

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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-08-2018, 10:27 AM Thread Starter
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Herb
I"m using a bosh router table, when I use 3/4" stock the bit seems wider than the wood and the best ones would be using 1" stock.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-08-2018, 10:48 AM
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You might have to double stick a 1/4" thick template to the top of your panel for the bearing to ride on.
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-08-2018, 11:51 AM
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Default Clarification?

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Originally Posted by pusserboy View Post
Herb
I"m using a bosh router table, when I use 3/4" stock the bit seems wider than the wood and the best ones would be using 1" stock.
Stuart
Stuart; just out of curiosity, are you running your stock with the 3/4" dimension flat on the table, or the width flat on it?
I would have said vertically or horizontally but that can be misinterpreted.
I too am a bit confused about the size of the bit. Why would you need to add a 'spacer' if the bit's designed for 3/4" ?
Also, if you're using the table...and a fence I presume(?)...why would the bearing have any, well, 'bearing'? It shouldn't come into contact, and if it does, it shouldn't be having any effect on the cut (the fence is doing the depth control).
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-08-2018, 12:04 PM Thread Starter
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A picture is worth 1000 words but how to add pictures.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-08-2018, 12:33 PM
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Like Herb, I think the thickness difference is most likely the problem. You cut the thick one first,then the 3/4 second. If you didn't readjust the bit height, it will make a different cut. Unexpected results are mostly forgetting something in the setup. I often mark the area to be removed in pencil so I can visually check how the bit lines up (see pix).

Don't forget that 3/4 ply isn't 3/4 and even milled hardwoods are not necessarily exactly 3/4, which suggests being meticulous about setting up each new cut.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-08-2018, 02:01 PM Thread Starter
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Gentlemen got the pictures in now maybe you can help

1- Shows stile 1"
2- Shows rail and stile 1" connected
3- Shows stile 3/4" stile has no back grove for panel
4- Shows rail 3/4"
5- Shows rail and stile together
Thank you for all your help
Stuart
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-08-2018, 05:12 PM
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Thanks for the pics, Stuart; not what I had imagined. Just to be sure I understand, you've made two completely different frames; one is 3/4" in thickness and the other is a full 1" in thickness.
The 3/4" one doesn't allow for a slot for a panel, because the profile uses up too much of the thickness?
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-09-2018, 07:36 AM
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The problem is that you have the bit too high. For 3/4" wood leave about 1/8" for the back. The rail and stile should go together so that the front is completely smooth and no sanding is required to make it smooth. If you only have one router be sure to cut extra parts because every time you have to reset the router you have through the set up process all over again and that can be time consuming. Once you have a perfect fit make some set up samples to help the next time. Be sure to use hold down feather boards to hold the stiles tight to the table and feather boards to hold them tight to the fence. Also use a miter gauge to keep the rails square to the frame.
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Last edited by mgmine; 07-09-2018 at 07:39 AM.
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