Boosch 1617 plunge router - Router Forums
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post #1 of 30 (permalink) Old 08-16-2018, 08:33 PM Thread Starter
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Default Boosch 1617 plunge router

Anyone have an issue with their plunge router base sticking when lowering?
Mine kind if jitters on it's way down. It does not provude a "smooth" trip down. I hate to force it and ruin my project.

Anyone know if their is an adjustment or cleaning that can be done to smooth out the travel?

Thanks all,

Jim
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post #2 of 30 (permalink) Old 08-16-2018, 08:55 PM
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How old is it? A lot of use or not much? Cleaning the posts would be the first place to start. Is there something that's worked it way into the space between the posts and the guides?

The more I do, the less I accomplish.
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post #3 of 30 (permalink) Old 08-16-2018, 09:00 PM
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locking cam isn't 100% releasing...
or it may be too loose and allowing the motor to ''rock'' as it moves causing it to bind...
owners manual covers the fix...
guide posts are dirty and/or dry..

clean the outside of the motor and the inside of the base w/ non chlorinated brake cleaner sprayed on a soft white (no colored rags please) cloth...
DO NOT spray the cleaner onto the motor or base...
above all DO NOT!!! I say again, DO NOT!!! use carburetor cleaner...
now polish the outside of the motor and the inside of the base w/ super hyper fine sand paper, 4/0 wool (synthetic, or stainless but not steel wool or better yet use a white non-woven abrasive pad..
coat the surfaces w/ a DRY SOLID FILM lubricant.. I'm real partial to TriFlow... DO NOT use a wet lubricant...
do the same for the posts...

VOE says WD is a mistake and all myth... it's a wet something or another that attracts all kinds of trash... does way more harm than good in the scheme of things...
I'm real partial to Triflow but most any dry lube will work well providing it's has Teflon/PFTE in it... [higher percentage by volume is more gooder]...
CRC, Tiolube, KG and DuPont each have several most excellent industrial spec DRY SOLID FILM lubricants..
Criteria - dries dry to the touch, high pressure load bearing, contains Teflon/PFTE, barrier forming, extreme temperature range, [usually -100 to +500F] isn't hygroscopic, does not collect dirt, not flammable in dry state, chemical resistant, does not contain silicone, has a long list of compatibles and is really very long lasting... or any of or all the features WD hasn't got any of....

one thing about dry solid film lubricants is that when you apply them and you think that you didn't apply enough you have probably applied too much..
very, very little goes a loooooooooooooooong way...

Just wait until you do your saw's arbor mechanism w/ dry lube.. you and your saw will never be the same... You'll treat everything that moves in the shop in short order... Please thoroughly clean whatever before lubing..
It's a great release agent too...

Dry Film Lubricants are high performance coatings made up of very fine particles of lubricating agents blended with binders and other special additives. Once cured, these lubricating agents bond to the part surface as a solid film which reduces galling, seizing and fretting and protects against corrosion. Through the combination of these properties, dry film lubricants greatly improve the wear life of coated parts.
Dry film/solid film lubricants allow for operating pressures above the load-bearing capacity of normal greases and oils. They are also not prone to collecting soil particulates than greases and oils. In some applications, the coating is self-burnishing, leading to improved, rather than decreased, performance over time. Some blends of dry film/solid film lubricants are also temperature and chemical resistant allowing for their use in harsh environments such as jet engines where exposure to aviation fuel and extreme temperatures are the norm.
This is the type of lubricant you want to use if you have a CNC.
AVOID using anything with silicone in it, because it seems to eventually get on everything including your project and you will have all kinds of finishing problems. Silicone products should be banned from the shop along w/ WD40.

WD will kill bearings in very short order.....
it dissolves the bearing's lubricant...

Bottom line - wet lubricants and saw dust don't go together!

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”

Last edited by Cherryville Chuck; 08-20-2018 at 06:28 PM. Reason: by request from OP. Edited section highlighted in bold text.
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post #4 of 30 (permalink) Old 08-16-2018, 11:06 PM Thread Starter
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Default Router travel

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Originally Posted by DesertRatTom View Post
How old is it? A lot of use or not much? Cleaning the posts would be the first place to start. Is there something that's worked it way into the space between the posts and the guides?
Desert Rat Tom,
Thanks for the reply. Unit is about 2 years old and used twice. I want to do some lettering with stencils and need a bit smoother travel.
Not sure what I am doing with Posts and guides and don't want to screw it up. I'll try to see what I can find reviewing the parts list and clean what I can and report back.
Thanks again for the tip.

Jim
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post #5 of 30 (permalink) Old 08-16-2018, 11:17 PM Thread Starter
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Stick,

Appreciate the quick response.
Guess because I don't use it a lot, it is probably got some gunk in the works. I will attempt to find some TriFlow and figure out what parts are what. Will also review the owners manual.
Shoulda thought that because I kept it in the case, it wouldn't get DIRTY. Wrong......
I will follow your directions as most on this site do. You know your stuff and I appreciate your help.

Next on the list? TriFlow.

Thanks again,

Jim
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post #6 of 30 (permalink) Old 08-16-2018, 11:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jpaskell View Post
Stick,

Appreciate the quick response.
Guess because I don't use it a lot, it is probably got some gunk in the works.

Next on the list? TriFlow.

Thanks again,

Jim
no problem...
lack of use goes a long ways to contributing to your issues...
there are other dry lubes out there that do a great job...
pick up a non-woven pad or two while yur shopping... (think green scrubby pad but get it from the sandpaper department)...

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
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post #7 of 30 (permalink) Old 08-16-2018, 11:42 PM Thread Starter
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Stick,

Believe ths is what your refering to? Found at True Value Hardware.

Jim
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Last edited by jpaskell; 08-16-2018 at 11:43 PM. Reason: Spelling error
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post #8 of 30 (permalink) Old 08-17-2018, 02:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jpaskell View Post
Stick,

Believe ths is what your refering to? Found at True Value Hardware.

Jim
that's the stuff...
after you polish... don't forget to reclean...

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”

Last edited by Stick486; 08-17-2018 at 02:34 AM.
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post #9 of 30 (permalink) Old 08-17-2018, 11:05 AM
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jpaskell,

I have exactly the same router brand and model. I was having the same issue as mention. I did all the things that has been mentioned. Nothing helped. I took both the plunge base and the router to a very good machinist I know. He measured and calibrated and finally decided that the plunge base was just too tight a fit. The router could not go down without binding. He said leave it with me and I will fix it. Well long story short, it worked better after I got it back from him than the day I tool it out of the box it came in. He said the biggest problem was the router itself is made out of harder material than the plunge base. right where the router goes into the slots were out of true he said. He trued the slots and polished both the router and the base. He told me to use a lot more air with it. The cleaner you can keep it, better it will work for you. saw dust has dirt in it and it will cut aluminum and other materials. Like I said, no more problems. He did recommend one other cleaner and that is Starting Fluid. People will roll their eyes at this, but we use it all the time to clean electrical connections and other electrical parts. It dries in seconds and leaves no residual. It is dry, very dry.

Tagwatts1 from Utah

Remember to eat your desert first as you may die before your food arrives.
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post #10 of 30 (permalink) Old 08-17-2018, 03:32 PM
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