Edge Routing Cabinet Doors - Router Forums
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post #1 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-23-2018, 07:40 AM Thread Starter
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Default Edge Routing Cabinet Doors

First post here but have utilized this site quite a bit, so thanks for all the help.

I have made a total of 33 shaker style doors/drawer faces for my kitchen. Rails / styles were cope and stick utilizing my router table, everything is assembled and sanded. Last two steps are Euro hinge holes and edge detail.

I've settled on using a 1/8" round over for the edge detail - my question is for someone without a lot of freehand router experience will this be more easily done on my Bosch router table, or just free hand using the bearing and fixed base on the router to guide? Also is there anyway to round over the corners of the doors ( they are 3/4" thick), can you run them against the fence on the router table with a sled to hold them straight, or better to just knock over the edge with a sanding block? Did a search on here but couldn't find any posts touching on the pros and cons of edge details on a table vs free routing.

Thanks.
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post #2 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-23-2018, 07:46 AM
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welcome N/A...
glad yur here...
I do this w/ a free handed trim router...
w/ that many doors/drawers sanding won't give you consistent results especially on end grain...

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

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"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
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post #3 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-23-2018, 07:54 AM
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I did my 1/8" edge details on the router table. If you're using a full size router it might be tipsy on the door edge....trim router probably better. To round the corners how about a corner radius template and flush trim bit....can do this on the router table.
Make the template to the radius you want on the door corner, double face tape it to the door....flush trim bit will transfer radius to door. If large radius band or jig saw bulk of corner waste.
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post #4 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-23-2018, 10:49 AM
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N/A; you didn't mention whether the doors will be on face frames or mounted Euro style, on the gable faces with Euro hinges?
If the latter, the doors will (should) be close fitting...maybe an 1/8" or less clearance...which causes issues when the doors swing out. In order for the back edges not to rub as the doors go though an arc, the edges are normally slightly relived on the back, ie. the angle from the front face over the edge is less than 90deg. To put it another way, if the front face measures say 20" across then the back face would be perhaps 19 3/4" .

A fully rounded edge would accomplish the same thing; maybe a 3/8"(?) roundover front and back...
Stick's a (retired) commercial cabinetmaker; I'm pretty sure he'll correct me...
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post #5 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-23-2018, 11:22 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all the help guys, going to give it a shot on the router table, I only have a full size router and was concerned with being a bit tipsy. An edge radius template is exactly what I need thank you, I will build one of these.

Cabinet doors are to be mounted on face frames, with euro style overlay hinges.

Thanks again.
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post #6 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-23-2018, 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by DaninVan View Post
maybe an 1/8" or less clearance...which causes issues when the doors swing out. In order for the back edges not to rub as the doors go though an arc, the edges are normally slightly relived on the back, ie. the angle from the front face over the edge is less than 90deg. To put it another way, if the front face measures say 20" across then the back face would be perhaps 19 3/4" .

A fully rounded edge would accomplish the same thing; maybe a 3/8"(?) roundover front and back...
1/16'' relief per door w/ a 1/8'' RO on the inside should do it and you'll still hold on to you aesthetics...
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This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
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post #7 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-23-2018, 11:44 AM
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I would probably go with the router table with that many doors. To hand rout them you would need to clamp, rout, rotate, clamp, rout, etc. No need for that on a table. Maybe with small profile and a trim router you could do it one handed. For easing the edge or really small round overs I just do it by hand. Remember to rout the end grain first.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #8 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-23-2018, 12:04 PM
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one of these and you won't need to clamp...
there will be no need to turn the doors either...

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
Stick486 is online now  
post #9 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-23-2018, 12:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gonefishin96 View Post
Thanks for all the help guys, going to give it a shot on the router table, I only have a full size router and was concerned with being a bit tipsy. An edge radius template is exactly what I need thank you, I will build one of these.

Cabinet doors are to be mounted on face frames, with euro style overlay hinges.

Thanks again.
Another way to round the edges would be to clamp several doors together and stand them on edge and use a round over bit in the router table. With several doors clamped together it should make for a nice stable non-tip surface. This way you could do several at a time. Just another suggestion.
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post #10 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-23-2018, 12:52 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Stick486 View Post
1/16'' relief per door w/ a 1/8'' RO on the inside should do it and you'll still hold on to you aesthetics...
Does this apply to my doors, face frame with an overlay hinge?
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