Tongue and Groove question - Router Forums
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post #1 of 62 (permalink) Old 08-29-2018, 07:51 AM Thread Starter
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Default Tongue and Groove question

Hello, I am putting end caps on a small bench seat to cover the end grain.
Should the grooves be in the seat and the tongue be in the caps or the other way around?
Or does it even matter?

"It's just a hardened oz or two of metal, sharpened to a razor edge, spinning at 24,000 rpm.....what could go wrong?"
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post #2 of 62 (permalink) Old 08-29-2018, 08:15 AM
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how wide are your end caps aka breadboards???
how thick???

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

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post #3 of 62 (permalink) Old 08-29-2018, 08:16 AM
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https://www.routerforums.com/router-...n-project.html

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
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post #4 of 62 (permalink) Old 08-29-2018, 08:42 AM Thread Starter
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I'm thinking 1 1/2 to 2 inches wide. They will be 0.868 in or 22.05 mm that's the thickness of the seat.

That other thread is way too confusing for me. I just plan on a couple of passes on the router table. The seat is only 15 1/2" wide, I can run it through the drum sander to true it up.

"It's just a hardened oz or two of metal, sharpened to a razor edge, spinning at 24,000 rpm.....what could go wrong?"

Last edited by adot45; 08-29-2018 at 09:34 AM.
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post #5 of 62 (permalink) Old 08-29-2018, 09:41 AM
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spline it w/ a centered 5/16~3/8'' spline...
mortise the breadboard to take advantage of the grain...


.
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This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

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Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
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post #6 of 62 (permalink) Old 08-29-2018, 09:55 AM Thread Starter
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I'm putting the caps (breadboards) on the end grain. I plan on using tongue and groove router bits to accomplish this.
Thanks for your help

"It's just a hardened oz or two of metal, sharpened to a razor edge, spinning at 24,000 rpm.....what could go wrong?"
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post #7 of 62 (permalink) Old 08-29-2018, 10:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adot45 View Post
I'm putting the caps (breadboards) on the end grain. I plan on using tongue and groove router bits to accomplish this.
Thanks for your help
okay...
be advised normal T&G isn't deep nor strong enough for the task..
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This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
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post #8 of 62 (permalink) Old 08-29-2018, 10:48 AM
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I love splines. Relatively simple. If you have a long spline, you have to use short sections with the proper grain orientation. It's also important to get both sides of the joint straight and the same size, and to put both pieces through the router with the same (usually the front) side down. If you do one up and the other down, you generally wind up having to sand, sand, sand because it's almost impossible to get a bit perfectly centered.

If you cut the groove on both pieces face down, they will automatically line up when glued up. It will take a minimum of sanding or scraping to get a perfectly flat surface. Fingers can feel a mismatch of just a couple of thousandths

The following is just background info
. The flatter your stock, the better your joints will turn out. Which is the job of the jointer and planer. But if you flatten stock and let it sit for awhile, it may warp or twist or resume its slightly-off surface. So you want to use your prepared material fairly soon after working it.

Sometimes you use an exotic or different color stock for the spline, which then becomes a decorative element. For example, I often use purpleheart for splines on the corners of frames or boxes because it really looks great against a lighter wood.

Splines should be very close to the exact width as the groove as possible. Too tight stresses the joint and leaves no room for glue. Too narrow and the joint will be weaker. This is where setting your saws and tools up carefully becomes important. If your table saw blade is not a perfect 90 to the table, your splines will be off as well. That's where a Wixey angle gauge come in handy. They're about $30 on Amazon.
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Last edited by DesertRatTom; 08-29-2018 at 11:01 AM.
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post #9 of 62 (permalink) Old 08-29-2018, 11:01 AM
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Dave; you know the old architects' adage, 'Form follows function'...couldn't be more apt than this particular application.
You're letting the availability of a specific tool dictate the design of the joint. You might regret this down the road; with the grain running lengthwise on the tongue it can potentially split off. Quite honestly, with modern glues it's not likely, but nevertheless.
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post #10 of 62 (permalink) Old 08-29-2018, 11:55 AM Thread Starter
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OK, I had a plan but I am flexible. If that isn't how I should do it for the project to last, then I'm not going to do it like my original plan.
I do have a Wixey cube and I do get the tongue oriented with the long grain would be weak....SO, just to scheme this out
in my head, use a dado blade to cut mortises in the bench top ends, then cut mortises in the breadboards, then fit splines to them and glue them up?

"It's just a hardened oz or two of metal, sharpened to a razor edge, spinning at 24,000 rpm.....what could go wrong?"
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