Router as a joiner? - Router Forums
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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-01-2018, 02:51 PM Thread Starter
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Question Router as a joiner?

After several years of dropping hints by SWMBO, I have finally got it in my head to start on a dining room table for her. I scored a large quantity of pecan in various widths and thicknesses. I talked with a guy at the local VA clinic and he gave me some tips on how to begin planing the boards. After planing, can a router be used to smooth the edges f or joining? Might use dowels for joining and gluing. Your advice and experience is most welcome.

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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-01-2018, 03:37 PM
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where have you been John????

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File Type: pdf R4 JOINER SUBSTITUTE.pdf (36.4 KB, 153 views)
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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-01-2018, 03:41 PM
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go to the head of the class...
skip the dowels and do it w/ splines...
use a slotting cutter to cut the spline slots.....

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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-01-2018, 03:42 PM
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Sure. Get a good straight edge...Mdf, ply etc....clamp it to the work leaving a smidge showing and, use a top bearing pattern bit.
Or, use the router table. Set the bit for a 16th or less cut and, bring the out feed fence forward to be flush with the cutter. Use a straight edge to insure it's flush.
Or, simply run the work on edge through the planer....if it's narrow enough. That's my go to method.

Edit...Stick beat me to it...I think. I can't read his pdf on this little kindle screen. But, I surely agree about using splines instead of dowels....or biscuits, for that matter.
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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-01-2018, 03:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Knothead47 View Post
Might use dowels for joining and gluing
you know.. dowels over time loosen all on their own...
you make through splines as well as blind...
you do bread boards on your table and you can do through splines...
splines help tremendously w/ alignment, strength, stability, and are easy to do...
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This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”

Last edited by Stick486; 09-01-2018 at 06:12 PM.
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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-01-2018, 04:03 PM
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I make my splines from hard board and, stop the slots so it doesn't show. I don't bother to conform the splines to the rounded ends of the slot. Why bother? The spline is only for alignment anywho.

Gene Howe
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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-01-2018, 04:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Knothead47 View Post
After several years of dropping hints by SWMBO, I have finally got it in my head to start on a dining room table for her.
two threads that will do you good...
https://www.routerforums.com/general...-question.html
https://www.routerforums.com/router-...n-project.html

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-01-2018, 04:12 PM
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I make my splines from hard board and, stop the slots so it doesn't show. I don't bother to conform the splines to the rounded ends of the slot. Why bother? The spline is only for alignment anywho.
Baltic birch make for premium splines...
the spline is way more than just alignment..
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This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
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Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-01-2018, 06:02 PM
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True enough, Stick. BB would certainly add stability to an edge joint...if that's needed. My builds are small enough to not need the extra stability. But, an alignment spline is well worth the time. And hard board is cheap.
I did build a 9' long, 30" wide, 2" thick bar top about 20 years ago. Had 2 hard board splines. Last time I was in that place, last year, it was solid as it ever was. But, aside from one end, it was fully supported by the compartments below.

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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-01-2018, 08:57 PM
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John; years ago I took a router course and the instructor had a slightly different take on the joint thing. He pointed out that if you have the two boards clamped in their proper location against each other and run your router, with a straight bit, down the joint the match will be perfect. Mirror images...doesn't matter if the line isn't perfectly straight.
It's the concept here, not the details; obviously this concept can be refined to a lot of different variables. The point is that the bit is perfectly round anything on one side will be perfectly matched on the other side.
Note; this is for freehand routing...not really applicable to table routing. Those adjustable dadoing jigs that so many members have built would be perfect for this app.

One thing for sure, the bit has to touch both edges at the same time, but you could leave a slight gap between the clamped boards. Obviously less than the bit diameter.
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