Whiteside/Eagle America Compression bit with top/bottom bearing - Router Forums
 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-02-2018, 05:44 PM Thread Starter
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Default Whiteside/Eagle America Compression bit with top/bottom bearing

Afternoon,

I need some help with my routing process.

I make the large nativity scenes you see in the yards at Christmas. I use a pattern and then rough trim the ply to about 1/4 inch overhang to make the routing easier. Then I use a straight 2 flute flush trim router bit to follow the pattern.

Here is my issue. This takes time to do.

So here is my question. Can I invest in the router bit I included in the pic and not have to trim the wood to 1/4”? I am using the 3.5 HP triton as well.

Or another solution?

The bit is the Whiteside UDC 9112 if the picture does not come through.


Thank you.
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-02-2018, 08:30 PM
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Welcome, Matt. If any bit could do it I would say yes. I also think maybe a 1/2" straight bit would be okay. Either way, in my opinion, it's all about how thick the plywood is.

Don in Murfreesboro,Tn.

Measure once cut twice and it's still to short.
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-02-2018, 08:51 PM
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I think a compression bit is overkill..
Cut closer to the pattern line to make for less to trim...
stack trim the nativity scenes
lay out your patterns better so there is less overall material waste... (plywood is unidirectional)

Freud Tools - Search Results for flush trim router bits
Router CNC | Trim | Downshear Helix Flush

how thick is the ply???
what saw and blade are you using to do your rough cuts???...

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-02-2018, 10:21 PM
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I regularly rout out 1/2" plywood, with a 1/4" shank, 1/2" bit. Trim closer than 1/4", no more than 1/8" for sure, less if you can, less to rout the faster to rout. I have no issues, brand doesn't seem to matter. Listen to Stick.

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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-03-2018, 12:49 AM
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I would also suggest you trim closer. The more material to hog away the longer it will take so I don't think there will be much if any time savings just switching bits and possibly negative results. Plus that bit is around $130.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-03-2018, 07:25 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the help. The ply is 23/32 thick. I know I can trim the ply to get close to the pattern. What I want to do is get a bit that can plow throw the ply without needing to trim before I cut.

I want to tape the pattern down and then go for.
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-03-2018, 09:09 AM
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in that case plan on going through a lot of bits...
see if can get case discounts...

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-03-2018, 11:07 AM
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One of the problems you have when you bury the bit in the wood is heat and lots of it which ends bits very quickly. The less wood it cuts the cooler the bit stays. You might check with the CS department at Onsrud Cutter about using polycrystalline diamond coated bits (PCD) which may be able to take the heat better and wear longer. I recall a member several years ago who was looking at them but was told by Onsrud that he couldn't feed fast enough by hand to use PCD bits but your situation might vary. Price may also be an issue as it seems to me one I saw was over $600 but that might be cheap if it does the job and lasts a long time. They might be a good source for quantity bits too if you don't go PCD. Onsrud is one of the world's largest suppliers of CNC tooling.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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