This is by Stick486
one thing you have to remember is to make sure your router box is vented w/ outside air for the motor or you will cook the motor from excessive heat...
do this by either sticking the motor's air intake outside of the box or add a ''snorkel'' to the end of router motor..,,
One very important thing you have to remember is to make sure your router box is vented w/ outside air for the motor or you will cook the motor from excessive heat because of the lack of cooling air for the motor...
Do this by either sticking the motor's air intake outside of the box or add a ''snorkel'' to the end of router motor... This is by Herb Stoops...
That is a good point, Stick, I let the router protrude through the bottom of the box. By doing so I had to cut out the bottom to clear the posts for the JessEm lift. I like Stick's idea better to clamp a flex hose around the router and let it protrude through the bottom of the box to allow the motor to suck clean air. I also have an adjustable port in the side of the box to allow more air into the box to create a maximum air flow through the box.
In my first router table I had the Milwaukee router, it was a real workhorse, the reason I bought the Milwaukee was at that time it was one of the few routers you could adjust the height from the top of the table. I didn't have a dust collection under the table at that time and could reach under, unlatch the router and do the adjustment from the top ,then reach under and lock the router. But the amount of chips and dust that ended up under the table was a large amount. The fence dust collection just couldn't get half the chips.
I also doored the router box for easy access to the router and the lift...
Stick did the same and he installed his vents in the door...
Under the table DC is a must, I branched off a 4" diameter hose with a 2˝" take off to the fence and the 4" line to the underside of the table's box.
Herb This is by Stick486
Now for Plan ''C''.....
A closed dust collector box keeps the inside of the table's router box at negative pressure. Which limits air flow and to some extent, deprives the motor of cooling air flowing through the motor. This fosters a condition where the router motor will overheat.
Building a box enclosing the lift and router motor w/ DC porting/venting and at the same time providing motor cooling make up air separately allows the DC's air to flow at optimum efficiency.
Add a large square boot, (right angle 4'' outlet minimum), centered to the router motor, on the bottom of the box and dedicate to DC....
Now, cooling airflow to the motor.
Adding a ''snorkel'' made of plastic or metal to the end of the router motor, of sufficient length to protrude outside of the box, irrespective of motor elevation, would ensure fresh cooling air to the motor.
This snorkel/tube/sleeve goes right through the dust collector boot (you would need to cut a hole in the boot for integration). It allows the motor to draw clean outside air for cooling while not interfering w/ DC. HEAT
will destroy your motor in very short order without good clean airflow.
When you attach the snorkel to motor make sure you don't seal up the air inlet vanes.
Round routers only need a round tube. Oversize the tube and use a reducing bushing with an ID to fit your motor.
Square ended router motors need a little more creativity. There are a host of square to round PVC adapters found in the “Big Box” chain stores' plumbing departments and they are also used in storm water drainage systems. Fernco also makes an extensive product line. In addition, look to vinyl guttering components. Also, don't skip by the HVAC section either. There is a vast variety of adapters available. There isn't anything saying that you can't use a length of square tube. There are a host DC fittings that may work. You could even fix the tube aka snorkel to the bottom of the box and let the router motor slide freely up and down in the tube. You could make this square tube from thin plywood or even FRP.
Now, as to the mounting. There are many options available; hose clamps, Velcro, Tywraps, mechanical (screws, nutserts, etc.). Mechanical method would be preferred if you have a thick motor cap and there's plenty of clearance under the cap to give the end of your mechanical fastener room so the fastener doesn't damage anything. Velcro:
For that to work, (slide on - slide off can be tad difficult) barrier the hooks and loops w/ a plastic putty knife(s). Set the snorkel. Remove the putty knife(s).
To separate the H&L to remove the snorkel, slide/work the putty knife(s) in between the H&L to release one from the other.) Remove the snorkel.
An open bottom box won't work all that well if there are drawers under the router box, nor will the snorkel through bottom or a bottom mounted DC boot unless they are designed into the table. Venting and DC will work if installed through the back or side of the box. Whatever you do, you need to arrange for make up air (venting/cooling) and pickup for for the DC simultaneously. There many variables here but all in all this should give you plenty of ideas to work w/ for/on a finished system that will work well for you. See the pictures for more ideas.......