JessEm Router w/Remote Switch - Page 2 - Router Forums
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post #11 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-08-2018, 10:20 AM
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That is the one I was looking at to be my first Router purchase. Figured might as well go big and work my way down to the smaller ones. Thank you for your feedback sir!
it's neither brand...
that motor and controller is made for JessEm...
I believe you will do well w/ this purchase...
one thing you have to remember is to make sure your router box is vented w/ outside air for the motor or you will cook the motor from excessive heat...
do this by either sticking the motor's air intake outside of the box or add a ''snorkel'' to the end of router motor...

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”

Last edited by Stick486; 11-08-2018 at 12:46 PM.
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post #12 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-08-2018, 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Stick486 View Post
it's neither brand...
that motor and controller is made for JessEm...
I believe you will do well w/ this purchase...
one thing you have to remember is to make sure your router box is vented w/ outside air for the motor or you will cook the motor from excessive heat...
do this by either sticking the motor's air intake outside of the box add a ''snorkel'' to the end of router motor...
That is a good point, Stick,I let the router protude through the bottom of the box. By doing so I have to cut out the bottom to clear the posts for the Jessem lift. I like Stick's idea better to clamp a flex hose around the router and let it protrude thru the bottom of the box to allow the motor to suck clean air. I also have an adjustable port in the side of the box to allow more air into the box to create a maximum air flow thru the box.

In my first router table I had the Milwaukee router, it was a real workhorse, the reason I bought the Milwaukee was at that time it was one of the few routers you could adjust the height from the top of the table. I didn't have a dust collection under the table at that time and could reach under,unlatch the router and do the adjustment from the top ,then reach under and lock the router. But the amount of chips and dust that ended up under the table was a large amount. The fence dust collection just couldn't get half the chips.

Under table DC is a must,I branch off a 4" dia. with a 2 1/2" to the fence and a 4" to the under table box.

Herb
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post #13 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-08-2018, 08:16 PM
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Hi Greg.
We bought one for our Guild, and with moderate use, it failed after a few months. The fine dust was able to penetrate the top bearing, which was a serious design fault. When the Agent tried to repair it, they destroyed it trying to get the bearing out, so they gave us a new one, which we were told had been modified. No further problems thus far. So if you are going to pursue it, make sure you ask if it is a modified unit.
They are pretty expensive for what you get, with no other application.
Cheers
Greg
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post #14 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-12-2018, 07:45 AM Thread Starter
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Now for Plan ''C''.....

A closed dust collector box keeps the inside of the table's router box at negative pressure. Which limits air flow and to some extent, deprives the motor of cooling air flowing through the motor. This fosters a condition where the router motor will overheat.

Building a box enclosing the lift/router motor that allows for elevation changes and provides make up air porting, allows the DC's air to flow at optimum efficiency.
All good feedback, keep the comments coming, I read them all.
Please note as previously mentioned I ordered the Incra Router Table "The Works" #3.

What this means: the INCRA CleanSweep DC is included.

DC was a primary concern of the wife as will be using a functional garage with vehicles parked inside. Once she saw the "Works" with the DC she was actually the one who encouraged me to buy this table versus the others. Understand other tables can do DC as well, but a good husband learns to quickly agree w/wife when it benefits you (e.g. Green Light for purchase).
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post #15 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-14-2018, 08:12 PM
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I have the router you are looking at. I am using it with the Nextwave Automation computerized lift and fence.

I cannot speak to it’s longevity, but having complete above the table control of the router makes the router table an absolute JOY to use.
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post #16 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-14-2018, 08:22 PM
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I have the Incra router table system with the Clean Sweep dust collection and have the PC7518 router. I do not have many hours on the router but so far it performs nicely. I bought the Incra lift system which is think is made by Jessum. To me, the advantages of the Incra over the Jessum is that the Incra has magnetic lock throat plates and you can get throat plates that have more open area for air flow than a solid disk with a hole in the middle for the router bit. Why do you need additional router cooling air flow when a down draft or under the table dust collection system brings in room air around the bit?
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post #17 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-14-2018, 09:49 PM
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Originally Posted by bfblack View Post
I have the Incra router table system with the Clean Sweep dust collection and have the PC7518 router. I do not have many hours on the router but so far it performs nicely. I bought the Incra lift system which is think is made by Jessum. To me, the advantages of the Incra over the Jessum is that the Incra has magnetic lock throat plates and you can get throat plates that have more open area for air flow than a solid disk with a hole in the middle for the router bit. Why do you need additional router cooling air flow when a down draft or under the table dust collection system brings in room air around the bit?
The router takes air from it's top end and pushes it past the bit. This both cools and keeps debris out of the windings. When you fire up the DC you create a negative pressure zone in the box. This is the zone the router is trying to take air from. At the other end near the bit air is trying to rush in to fill that negative pressure zone. So you have positive pressure pushing against the air stream the router is trying to create. The result is decreased air flow going through the router and increased heat as a result.

Air flow is much easier to visualize if you think of it in two concepts. One is that vacuum is actually just a low pressure zone that the vacuum motor creates. The sucking effect is created by air at full atmospheric pressure rushing in to fill the space that the evacuated molecules left behind. So it's negative pressure and positive pressure and energy always flows from high to low potential.

Secondly, it also makes it easier to visualize if you imagine air molecules as if they were ping pong balls. Air molecules bang into each other just like ping pong balls would and the reactions from those collisions are the same.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #18 of 18 (permalink) Old 12-13-2018, 11:32 AM
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Default Venting a router table's motor w/ DC...

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Originally Posted by Stick486 View Post
one thing you have to remember is to make sure your router box is vented w/ outside air for the motor or you will cook the motor from excessive heat...
do this by either sticking the motor's air intake outside of the box or add a ''snorkel'' to the end of router motor..,,

This is by Stick486

One very important thing you have to remember is to make sure your router box is vented w/ outside air for the motor or you will cook the motor from excessive heat because of the lack of cooling air for the motor...
Do this by either sticking the motor's air intake outside of the box or add a ''snorkel'' to the end of router motor...

This is by Herb Stoops...

That is a good point, Stick, I let the router protrude through the bottom of the box. By doing so I had to cut out the bottom to clear the posts for the JessEm lift. I like Stick's idea better to clamp a flex hose around the router and let it protrude through the bottom of the box to allow the motor to suck clean air. I also have an adjustable port in the side of the box to allow more air into the box to create a maximum air flow through the box.

In my first router table I had the Milwaukee router, it was a real workhorse, the reason I bought the Milwaukee was at that time it was one of the few routers you could adjust the height from the top of the table. I didn't have a dust collection under the table at that time and could reach under, unlatch the router and do the adjustment from the top ,then reach under and lock the router. But the amount of chips and dust that ended up under the table was a large amount. The fence dust collection just couldn't get half the chips.

I also doored the router box for easy access to the router and the lift...
Stick did the same and he installed his vents in the door...

Under the table DC is a must, I branched off a 4" diameter hose with a 2˝" take off to the fence and the 4" line to the underside of the table's box.

Herb


This is by Stick486

Now for Plan ''C''.....


A closed dust collector box keeps the inside of the table's router box at negative pressure. Which limits air flow and to some extent, deprives the motor of cooling air flowing through the motor. This fosters a condition where the router motor will overheat.

Building a box enclosing the lift and router motor w/ DC porting/venting and at the same time providing motor cooling make up air separately allows the DC's air to flow at optimum efficiency.

Suggestion:

Add a large square boot, (right angle 4'' outlet minimum), centered to the router motor, on the bottom of the box and dedicate to DC....

Now, cooling airflow to the motor.

Adding a ''snorkel'' made of plastic or metal to the end of the router motor, of sufficient length to protrude outside of the box, irrespective of motor elevation, would ensure fresh cooling air to the motor.
This snorkel/tube/sleeve goes right through the dust collector boot (you would need to cut a hole in the boot for integration). It allows the motor to draw clean outside air for cooling while not interfering w/ DC.
HEAT will destroy your motor in very short order without good clean airflow.

When you attach the snorkel to motor make sure you don't seal up the air inlet vanes.
Round routers only need a round tube. Oversize the tube and use a reducing bushing with an ID to fit your motor.

Square ended router motors need a little more creativity. There are a host of square to round PVC adapters found in the “Big Box” chain stores' plumbing departments and they are also used in storm water drainage systems. Fernco also makes an extensive product line. In addition, look to vinyl guttering components. Also, don't skip by the HVAC section either. There is a vast variety of adapters available. There isn't anything saying that you can't use a length of square tube. There are a host DC fittings that may work. You could even fix the tube aka snorkel to the bottom of the box and let the router motor slide freely up and down in the tube. You could make this square tube from thin plywood or even FRP.

Now, as to the mounting. There are many options available; hose clamps, Velcro, Tywraps, mechanical (screws, nutserts, etc.). Mechanical method would be preferred if you have a thick motor cap and there's plenty of clearance under the cap to give the end of your mechanical fastener room so the fastener doesn't damage anything.

Velcro:
For that to work, (slide on - slide off can be tad difficult) barrier the hooks and loops w/ a plastic putty knife(s). Set the snorkel. Remove the putty knife(s).
To separate the H&L to remove the snorkel, slide/work the putty knife(s) in between the H&L to release one from the other.) Remove the snorkel.

Notes:

An open bottom box won't work all that well if there are drawers under the router box, nor will the snorkel through bottom or a bottom mounted DC boot unless they are designed into the table. Venting and DC will work if installed through the back or side of the box. Whatever you do, you need to arrange for make up air (venting/cooling) and pickup for for the DC simultaneously. There many variables here but all in all this should give you plenty of ideas to work w/ for/on a finished system that will work well for you. See the pictures for more ideas.......

.
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This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
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