Porter Cable 7518 Speed Control Repair? - Page 2 - Router Forums
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post #11 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-07-2019, 01:09 PM Thread Starter
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mine had twist tabs holding it to the board...
ok. I see that. After heat shield removal, you replaced the 2 radial capacitors, 47uf/50v (you can see in my picture) and it worked after that?
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post #12 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-07-2019, 01:14 PM
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When you replaced the caps, did you board look like the one in the picture I attached? I was wondering how you managed to remove and replace the metal plate which apparently is the heat sink.
I believe you'll be better off w/ an external controller...

SUGGESTION....
When you are using your router don't lay it on it's side because the warmed up/thinned bearing lube has a tendency to leak out...
this is NOT A GOOD PLAN...
build a rest for your router...

.

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
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post #13 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-07-2019, 01:21 PM
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ok. I see that. After heat shield removal, you replaced the 2 radial capacitors, 47uf/50v (you can see in my picture) and it worked after that?
you only have 2???
mine had 4 and they were bulged and yes it worked.....
no hope fr one...
bypassed it an went ESC...
if it's a triac/diac/potentiometer... yur pretty much outta luck..

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”

Last edited by Stick486; 10-07-2019 at 01:25 PM.
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post #14 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-07-2019, 01:40 PM Thread Starter
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you only have 2???
mine had 4 and they were bulged and yes it worked.....
no hope fr one...
bypassed it an went ESC...
if it's a triac/diac/potentiometer... yur pretty much outta luck..
Did you have the speed controller with the 5 position slide switch?
I just double checked and there are only 2 of the tall capacitors under the heatsink, both 47uf/50V. there are other small chip caps on the circuit board however. Neither of the 2 caps appear bulged.

What did you mean by "no hope fr one..."?
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post #15 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-07-2019, 01:49 PM
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Did you have the speed controller with the 5 position slide switch?
I just double checked and there are only 2 of the tall capacitors under the heatsink, both 47uf/50V. there are other small chip caps on the circuit board however. Neither of the 2 caps appear bulged.

What did you mean by "no hope for one..."?
yes on the switch...
they must have done a redesign since mine..

a brown spot is an indicator of a failed cap...
you may have another issue other than the caps..

''no hope''.. couldn't repair the SC w/ a cap change... so which part was it???

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
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post #16 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-07-2019, 01:50 PM
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PC tools aren’t what they used to be since bought out a few years ago and they may never have had good bearings ever. One of my sanders has a skateboard bearing in it. You may want to look at a different motor or go with a 7519 which I think was the single speed model at plus 3 hp. Less to go wrong. Then use a good remote speed controller.
agreed...

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
Stick486 is online now  
post #17 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-07-2019, 07:32 PM Thread Starter
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yes on the switch...
they must have done a redesign since mine..

a brown spot is an indicator of a failed cap...
you may have another issue other than the caps..

''no hope''.. couldn't repair the SC w/ a cap change... so which part was it???
I decided not to replace the caps since they did not appear blown. So I took the safest route as has been recommended. Harbor Freight is close by. I got thier speed controller for about $15 after discount, bypassed the PC speed control, mounted the HF SC on the side of the router table cabinet and plugged it in. Works fine. Will see how it does reliability wise...I use the router a lot. It has a 90 day warranty so ill have a lot of time on it by then. The top speed to my ear sounds the same as before (its a loud router compared to the Hitachi M12V, I have 2 tables one with the M12V and now the PC). Of course no soft start but who cares when its in a table. The speed adjusts up and down. Ill have to wait and see how it does at slow speed with a raised panel bit and report later on. Votes out if Ill keep the PC. I like the lift but the Hitachi M12V is a better router all around but no lift for it. Its just a hassle making a large height change with the Hitachi. The Bench Dog Pro Lift I got with the router, I think circa 2008, it exceptionally well built machine. Very please with it.
Thanks for the guidance. You helped guide me to a successful conclusion.
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post #18 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-07-2019, 07:55 PM
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I like the lift but the Hitachi M12V is a better router all around but no lift for it.
https://jessem.com/collections/route...-based-routers

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
Stick486 is online now  
post #19 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-08-2019, 12:15 AM
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I have an M12V which I used in my table for several years and it did an acceptable job. Having to reach under to adjust it was the biggest issue. Then I got an M12V2. It has above table adjustment capability. There is a 13 or 14mm nut on the end of the adjustment rod which is exposed once the black plastic base comes off. I use a 3/8 drive mechanics speeder wrench with a socket on the end and I can through the full range of adjustment in literally a matter of seconds. The V2 also has a wider throat opening and has plugs on the end of the spring tubes to make removing the springs easy ( takes maybe a minute). It really was designed to be used in a table but was never really advertised as such for some reason.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #20 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-08-2019, 11:31 AM Thread Starter
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I have an M12V which I used in my table for several years and it did an acceptable job. Having to reach under to adjust it was the biggest issue. Then I got an M12V2. It has above table adjustment capability. There is a 13 or 14mm nut on the end of the adjustment rod which is exposed once the black plastic base comes off. I use a 3/8 drive mechanics speeder wrench with a socket on the end and I can through the full range of adjustment in literally a matter of seconds. The V2 also has a wider throat opening and has plugs on the end of the spring tubes to make removing the springs easy ( takes maybe a minute). It really was designed to be used in a table but was never really advertised as such for some reason.
nice. Ill take another look at the M12v2. I had one years back and returned it because the collet was so whimpy compared to the M12V......has a couple thin shims as I remember. But yes, reaching under the table is and making a large height adjustment is the worse with the M12v
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