Porter Cable 7518 Speed Control Repair? - Router Forums
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post #1 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-07-2019, 09:44 AM Thread Starter
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Default Porter Cable 7518 Speed Control Repair?

My just bought a used 7518 with a lift and the speed wanders on the 1 setting and all other settings go to max speed.
Ive blown and cleaned but no fix. The card is $130.
Ive read that replacing electrolytic caps will fix it but that must be for another model because the caps look inaccessible.
And Ive read suggestions to use the Harbor Freight Speed Controller vs repair I guess becuase it cant be repaired.
Could it possibly be caused by worn carbon blocks?
Anyway your insights repair it.
Thanks!
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post #2 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-07-2019, 10:24 AM
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bypass it and use an external speed controller...

.
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post #3 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-07-2019, 10:42 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks very much. The diagram is very helpful to bypass.
OK so you provide this because the cap replacement idea is not going to work on this speed controller board.
will the Harbor Freight speed controller be adequate? Its rated at 15A as is the router. Since its a table mount Im not so concerned about the soft start. Thanks!
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post #4 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-07-2019, 10:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rkruz3 View Post
Thanks very much. The diagram is very helpful to bypass.
OK so you provide this because the cap replacement idea is not going to work on this speed controller board.
will the Harbor Freight speed controller be adequate? Its rated at 15A as is the router. Since its a table mount Im not so concerned about the soft start. Thanks!
I replaced the caps in mine..
as the HF at 15amps is too marginal..
that router wants 18 amps under heavy load... which it can't hold for long but the ESC will suffer...
go for a 20 amp controller..
the next issue will be the bearings... that could be catastrophic...

my experience w/ PC...

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This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”

Last edited by Stick486; 10-07-2019 at 10:56 AM.
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post #5 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-07-2019, 11:33 AM Thread Starter
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Did you have the same board as shown in the picture? The caps are under a plate that is swagged into the board so I was wondering how you removed the plate to get access to the caps? Looks like 47uf, 50V. When you replaced these the speed controller worked?

do you know of a 20A controller?. I only see the $20 15 amp variety and then jump to the $60 25A Rockler version.

The PC speed controller is intermittent. It will hold low speed for example but when I switch it up to 2 and and back 1 it will almost stop then surge to highest speed. Both brushes look fine.

Im on the fence to just find another used 7518 vs invest more $ in this one. I should have been more careful to test it before I bought it.
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post #6 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-07-2019, 12:00 PM
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Have an old 7518 in my table on a lift. The speed control switch access was blocked by the lift, so I set it on hi and plugged it into a 20 amp speed controller. I love it, you can dial in the best speed for the bit. This router doesn't have the soft start,too old, I have heard that soft start has to be eliminated for a speed control to work, you might want to research that.

https://www.amazon.com/MLCS-9410-20-...0464138&sr=8-1

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post #7 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-07-2019, 12:05 PM
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PC tools aren’t what they used to be since bought out a few years ago and they may never have had good bearings ever. One of my sanders has a skateboard bearing in it. You may want to look at a different motor or go with a 7519 which I think was the single speed model at plus 3 hp. Less to go wrong. Then use a good remote speed controller.
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post #8 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-07-2019, 12:17 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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I replaced the caps in mine..

.
When you replaced the caps, did you board look like the one in the picture I attached? I was wondering how you managed to remove and replace the metal plate which apparently is the heat sink.
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post #9 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-07-2019, 12:45 PM
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that's a heat shield and it should be mechanically connected to the board...
BTW... IWTB that's and off shore model...
I stay away from MCLS at any cost...

https://www.amazon.com/20-amp-speed-...eed+controller

if you have to have a '18, go w/ a new one and pay attention to the PDF...
why not a Bosch 1619???

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”

Last edited by Stick486; 10-07-2019 at 12:48 PM.
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post #10 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-07-2019, 12:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rkruz3 View Post
When you replaced the caps, did you board look like the one in the picture I attached? I was wondering how you managed to remove and replace the metal plate which apparently is the heat sink.
mine had twist tabs holding it to the board...

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
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