A new member here. Just completed an introduction.
I am requesting a recommendation for filler material that can be used to correct mistakes. In the course of rounding over a 3/16" piece of beechwood I gouged the edge and want to add a filler material that will allow me to re-route over the damaged edge. A search of the web does not really address adding something like Bondo and being able to re-route it. Perhaps someone can recommend an acceptable material?
Cut away a large enough area and replace with a piece of wood from your cut-off pile. Always a good reason to keep all the little bits you cut off until the end of a project. Dig through them until you find a good grain match.
It may take a little creative chiseling and sawing to get a good fit. Concentrate on an invisible glue line first, don't worry if the patch is proud of the finished surface. You can always work the patch down after the glue has dried.
By the way, if you are going to try the sawdust and glue trick for filling in small dings or slightly open joints, I suggest you use liquid hide glue (Franklin / Tightbond). The hide glue won't block finishes so if are going to stain or dye the piece, it won't have that tell-tail light spot that PVA glue causes...
If this piece is going to be outside or otherwise subjected to high heat or moisture, don't use the hide glue, liquid or traditional. Heat and moisture are exactly how you reverse a hide glue joint. Otherwise I've found it to be really useful stuff. Just get the smallest bottle you can find because its shelf life is shorter than PVA.
As a filler I use an Australian product called "knead it". It is a softish grey stick with a central core of a darker grey colour. You cut off a slice and knead it between your fingers until it becomes a single colour. It bonds to most materials including wood and metals and in warm weather hardens within about half an hour after which it can be sanded, filed, drilled, tapped and routed. The final colour is pale grey.
Having said all that, I agree with Rob that cutting out a reasonable size piece around the blemish and trimming a new piece to fit with matching grain is the better way to go.
Yeah we have something similar here as well Harry. "Mighty Putty".
Stinks like a woman's freshly permed hair-doo until it dries though.
Then its water resistant but can be sanded or machined as you said.
Thanks everyone for the information. In my case I don't have to worry about matching grain, etc. I am creating patterns to be used in metal casting. I will check into "Mighty
Putty" and "knead it." I believe I have seen the ads for "Mighty Putty" by the late Billy Mays.
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