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trial & error... need sum help/advice :(

3K views 20 replies 13 participants last post by  harrysin 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
:angry:

Alright, im building norm's deluxe router table.. Got the top done.. Now its time to trim the edges.. right? Well take a look at the picture's and please someone tell me what im doing wrong. Im using a 3/16" roundover bit. I have tried going fast, i have tried going slow. I have raised the bit and lowered the bit.

I have came to the conclusion that im using the wrong bit. Now that I have messed the edges up for sure I need a new bit to cover the uh oh up.. Any adivce?

Thanks a ton and u guys are great!


to Bob : Thanks for the scans of the plans . Thankfully Rockler did send me a set of the ones i lost.. thank you so much
 

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#3 ·

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#4 ·
Are you using a bit with a bearing?
 
#5 ·
James

I can't tell what you are doing,if that's round over bit I would trash it,but it may be the picture :)

The bearing should ride on the stock,that may be the error..:)
" set to high ▲ )

But I think a bigger round over may fix it.. ( 1/2" R ) but it's hard to tell at this point :(

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#6 ·
May seem like a dumb question (I know, no such thing as dumb question, this is just a dumb person asking a question:wacko:)
You're not trying to climb cut that are you? That 3rd picture looks like the bit climbed out and yanked the bearing off the guide edge. :confused:
 
#7 ·
I have a couple of dumb questions.. Did do the routing with the router on top of the table and the bearing resting against the wood trim? Were you moving the router from left to right as you were cutting?
 
#9 ·
I would agree with BJ, get a new bit and perhaps use a 3/8" bit or even 1/2"
 
#11 ·
James, the photos show that your router was tipping slightly as you were moving it. That is what causes the different widths of cut. I would use a 45º chamfering bit with just under 1/4" of the bit showing to clean this up. Clamp your top to the support, rest your left arm on the top to help keep the router level. One smooth pass at an even speed will make this look just fine. By the way, Although Norm gets the most publicity for this table the design is from Fine Woodworking Magazine and was in commercial production as the RT1000 6 months before Norm built his. Best Router Tables
 
#13 ·
Only thing I can think to add to what hasn't already been covered, is IMHO round over bits just don't work ever well on Laminates. that's why you don't see them on kitchen counters. Some inspectors won't pass a house if they are rounded. It's ready more of a safety issue. When we use a radius bit you can end up with a sharp edge if the glue fails. and sometimes even if it don't. Laminates can cut like a razor. That why we have laminate bits. (they have an angle). but my answer has nothing to do with your problem. Either you have a bad bit or bearing. or there is glue buildup on the bearing. I would try it out on a scrap board, and see if you can see what is happening, look for the things already stated above.
Lets know what you figure out.
Harry
 
#14 ·

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#15 ·
Bob, none of the edges in your attachement were laminates< but in any case I haven't taught codes classes in a few years. But don't think anything has changed. Probably not inforced in all states either. Bars aren't even in the codes book as such. The plumbing and electrical part is sorta hit on. I'm not talking commerical, they have a whole set of their own. It's like the part on whether the ground goes up or down on 110V outlets. Just know what I was required to say!! Another point the rounded edge on countertops at the HD, Lowes, etc. Have molded edges not routered.
 
#17 ·
Hi Harry

Your right about the tops at HD, and many kitchen tops are molded the same way, it's the best and safe all but the bottom edge on the counter top can be sharp sometimes..

I have been told the ground port always goes down to the floor :)

In the PDF file it looks like solid wood edging with laminate on the top and the round over edge is in place with the top edge is just cutting the laminate just under the edge.

I just about always use the bit below on laminates ..

Laminate Trimming Bits

"Do the same work in less time! Our specially designed 2 flute carbide tipped laminate trimming bits include the Euro™ Square Teflon bearing.
These bits are designed to slide on clean laminate edges. The bearing will not scratch your work piece.
Glue will not stick to the bearing.
The bit cuts a slight bevel for a clean cut and no filling is required. "


Katana Straight bits, Pattern/Flush Trim bits, 6 Pack Set

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#16 ·
In all the counter tops I've installed over the years only the custom hand made ever had the possibility of a (decorative) chamfered edge. The option never caught on in my area, but the bits to chamfer the edge were offered many years ago and I still have one.

The angle is so slight that it only removes the printed edge of the Formica thereby creating a dark band line to offset the band from the table/counter surface. I and fortunately my customers always preferred a wood band with round over or chamfered edge.

If you look close you can still see the contact cement on the bearing from the last time I used it nearly 15 yrs ago on 2 kitchen counter tops at a local Inn.

My guess is that the possibility of a delam on a razor thin chamfered edge is too dangerous and that's why towns and states might have banned the option.
 

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#19 ·
Laminated tops with rounded edges are very common, known as Vinyl wrap. The most common use is for kitchen tops. Like doors, it's far cheaper for the cabinet maker to have the tops made by specialist firms. I presume that heat is involved.
 

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#20 ·
The process is thusly:

Take MDF and mold an edge to your liking. Use no less than 1/2" radius bits. Make a second piece of softwood the negative of your positive edging if you have mixed convex and concave edging.

Select your laminate carefully. Use only the thinnest laminate you can get in the colour and texture you want. Now the trick is to heat the laminate until it softens. Use the negative to help get the laminate to conform to the edge you've molded. Then glue the whole thing down. Pros can do this whole thing, gluing and heating in one operation.

I made a mistake once and accepted delivery of a piece of laminate that was too thick for the molding. I damned near killed myself trying to get it to form to the edging. I burned it trying to get it to form. I ended up cutting it off and making a square edge. Later I learned that the supplier had provided me the thick material so I'd end up buying a countertop made by him, then he'd get two sales.

Allthunbsd
 
#21 ·
You've reminded Ron of what we used to do many years ago making loud speaker boxes, we used a laminate known here as vertical veneer, it was very thin and no heat was needed.
 
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