on a baby crib legs that have a 5" taper at the bottoms.... I tried to copy a pic from Adobe, but my skills are limited... these legs are 1.75 x 2.25 x 43...
I made them from curly maple, and could do the routing on a straight leg, but that 5" taper hasme concerned. I REALLY don't wann mess these up, so I'm askin' so advice on the best way to rout the 2 edges of the legs that are tapered... the other two edges are a straight shot(no problem). I will be using my shaper equipped with a 1/2" shafted RO bit.I don't have a router table...
BTW, I've done more routing/practicing with my router since I've joined here.. reading does help with knowledge and confidence. I appreciate your sharing experiences and knowledge. Thanks!!!
Once you made a Ski jig for your the hand router you will see how easy and how safe it can be done
The router table is a great tool but the ski jig makes it safe,your hands don't come close to the bit at any time and the ski jig is the router table up side down so to speak..the bearing is the fence..
I believe he is, as long as you can keep the base of the router stable and the bearing doesn't drop below the tapered end you'll get a nice cut. A smaller router will be easier to control, and you can add material to either side of the bit to stabilize the base.
I might try the RT with a round over and use the fence in place of the bearing.
Butch.
Shaper is a little over kill for this little job. But it easy enough to do; especially if you are more comfortable using it. Use your split fence and height adjustment to set the radius you need. Shaper is nothing more than a giant router! Feed from right to left just like you would with a router table. Really this is the better way of doing it. No need to worry with keeping router level on such a small work piece.
Post us an pic when you finish!
Harry, TX
When I last bought 1/2" MDF I made the first cut a 12" wide rip of the 8' long sheet and saved it. I use it and my 23 ga pin nailer for many things. With 2 true edges on it I can:
- Use it to get a straight edge on S2S lumber.
- Cut tapers
- (with shims) remove small amounts of twist or warp on a board too wide for my jointer.
..and other things yet to be thought of. With 3/4" pins in my nailer, I shoot through the MDF into the wood in a waste area to hold it in place. It doesn't create a lot of strength towards holding the boards together but keeps them from sliding against each other. When I'm done, I pull them apart and the pins remain in the MDF. A pair of pliers to pull them and I'm done!
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