Good morning! I'm new to this site- actually searched it out hoping to see if anyone out there has successfully cut plexiglass using a router and a trim bit. I've used a saber saw before, but I want a better looking, more accurate cut. Does anybody out there know how?
Some cuts well, some bits can cut it well.Watch the speed, I set the router to max and have a fast feed rate. I use it for jigs all the time (Lexan) and generally have no problems. Sometimes the bits get tangled up as if wrapped with fishing line. Strange stuff.
Im also into reef aquariums and this site helped alot, the left side of the page has the how to links, I have one of his sumps. Melevsreef.com | Acrylic Sumps & Refugiums
If you want a excellent finish edge, after you are satisfied with thefinish cut ,---use a small torch to heat the edges ( experiment with a scrap piec ) Ihave used this method and it does work. ---Frank Lee
Do it all the time. 0-flute single straight bit is where its at on the router table and on the table saw I use a thin kerf, 0 off set, triple chip format, 60 tooth, 10" inch blade. Cuts like butta'. Acrylic / plastics blades can get real high real quick though. You can get away with thin kerf 60 - 80 tooth carbide tipped plywood / finish cut blades but its less then ideal for jointing. The off set of the teeth is the monster you want to try and keep in the closet when using a table saw to cut acrylic. That's where you get vibration, hazing, and chipping from. Not to mention undesirable scoring on edges you have to remove before jointing.
Where eye protection, a dust mask, and gloves while cutting.
It slings crap at you like no other in the form of hot strands while routing, and hot chips while cutting.
The dust the table saw creates you do not want in your eyes or lungs.
Picture pouring powder form fiberglass all over you......
I've never had a problem routing and sawing 1/2" Acrylic. Some types of material have a lower melting point than others and so router speed needs slowing on the lower melting point ones on the other end of the scale go flat out. I've used a radial arm saw, a jig saw, a band saw and even a hack saw! Normal straight cutters have never caused me a problem.
It all depends on the type of fit your looking for I guess.
I build a lot of acrylic fish tanks and saltwater accessories so I need tight straight and uber clean joints so that they will both hold water and cure to full contact strength.
But if you don't need that ( like 99.9% of the rest of the world other then my self LOL ! ) then yup you can use what ever as long as it works for you.
O flutes are the ticket. If you are in a hurry or need a one time deal and want to avoid the cost. Cut material to just shy of final size then hose down the material with windex. Use the sharpest bit you have to cut it. Highspeed steel is the way to go for sharpness but not distance.
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