Routing Box Cavities - Router Forums
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-20-2009, 09:44 PM Thread Starter
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Default Routing Box Cavities

Have been thinking of trying some routed boxes - routing out the box cavity and a cover cavity to fit over the sides and ends of the box body.

What would you think the best method of routing the cavities would be - 1) router table with stops, using straight, spiral, or dish cutting bit; or 2) template and either flush trim bit or straight/spiral bit with template guide?

The table, at first blush, sounds easier but there would definitely be problems with sawdust. Set up for option 2 would be a pain but might be the better alternative.

Please share your opinion on this.

Thanks,

Jim
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-20-2009, 09:55 PM
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Hi Jim

Looks like it's time to make a ski jig, you will be amazed how well they work for what you want to do..


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Originally Posted by jimcrockett View Post
Have been thinking of trying some routed boxes - routing out the box cavity and a cover cavity to fit over the sides and ends of the box body.

What would you think the best method of routing the cavities would be - 1) router table with stops, using straight, spiral, or dish cutting bit; or 2) template and either flush trim bit or straight/spiral bit with template guide?

The table, at first blush, sounds easier but there would definitely be problems with sawdust. Set up for option 2 would be a pain but might be the better alternative.

Please share your opinion on this.

Thanks,

Jim



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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-20-2009, 10:13 PM Thread Starter
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How do I curve the toes up on the skis? What type of bindings should I use?

Seriously, I've intended to do this for some time and just never seem to get a round tuit. This sounds like it might be the kick in the butt that I need, then I need to find a large, flat surface to do the routing on.

Thanks for the reply. I kind of suspected that you would go with the template option (with skis) rather than the router table.

Jim
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-20-2009, 10:38 PM
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Hi Jim

Your router table is a good place to work with the ski jig,just pull the router out and move the fence off to one side and make a block to fit in the hole and some scrap plywood that you screw the block to so you don't need to clamp it down in place and your set to use the ski jg.

" template option " it so easy to make a template, 4 sticks glued as the pattern , it can be anything you want it to be,round ,sq,heart shape,candy bowl,etc...the guides do all the work for you..

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Originally Posted by jimcrockett View Post
How do I curve the toes up on the skis? What type of bindings should I use?

Seriously, I've intended to do this for some time and just never seem to get a round tuit. This sounds like it might be the kick in the butt that I need, then I need to find a large, flat surface to do the routing on.

Thanks for the reply. I kind of suspected that you would go with the template option (with skis) rather than the router table.

Jim



"It's fine to disagree with other members as long as you respect their opinions"

Marc Sommerfeld Tools ,Videos
http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCT-n...RWaEpMA/videos

Find all threads started by bobj3
http://www.routerforums.com/search.php?searchid=944097


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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-22-2009, 03:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimcrockett View Post
Have been thinking of trying some routed boxes - routing out the box cavity and a cover cavity to fit over the sides and ends of the box body.

What would you think the best method of routing the cavities would be - 1) router table with stops, using straight, spiral, or dish cutting bit; or 2) template and either flush trim bit or straight/spiral bit with template guide?

The table, at first blush, sounds easier but there would definitely be problems with sawdust. Set up for option 2 would be a pain but might be the better alternative.

Please share your opinion on this.

Thanks,

Jim
Jim what you are contemplating will require a little more preparation than what has been suggested.

It can be achieved without the aid of the skis if the material to be cut out is small; what you do require is access to some template guides and construct a couple of templates. Option 2 IMHO is the way to go as you will be able to see what you are cutting out and again IMHO it is a safer method.

It would have helped if you had inserted some dimensions as to what is required, this will help others to give you the necessary advice.

I have mastered the use of the template guides and when contemplating such a project I start looking to see if it is possible using the guides and usually it is. As I said above I look for a safe method all the time.

Tom (Template Tom)
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-22-2009, 06:48 PM
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hi Jim,

i agree with the posts others have posted here.

the router ski jig seems to be the only answer.

light travels faster than sound, this is why some people seem bright til you hear them speak.

Please Please Please edit your profile with a name and location so we can better assist you and make for a friendlier forum

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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-22-2009, 08:21 PM Thread Starter
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Tom, I really don't know what the dimensions will be exactly, but will be equal or less than 12" long, 8" wide, 3" thick (depends on how deeply I can extend the bit). I don't know if it is practical but my thoughts are routing along the perimeter with a 1/2" spiral upcut and then hogging out the center portion with a 1" mortising bit I have never used. But, as I mentioned, that is just my thought now. Will probably try something reasonably small to begin with just to see how everything works out.

I do have a set of template guides, although I have never used them. One of the guides is 21/32" (inside) x 3/4" (outside), so I would need to make the template 5/32" wider than the desired cavity on each side - is that correct?

I'm going to have to try to figure out how I'm going to set this up to secure the piece to the table and then support the templates.

Jim

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Jim what you are contemplating will require a little more preparation than what has been suggested.

It can be achieved without the aid of the skis if the material to be cut out is small; what you do require is access to some template guides and construct a couple of templates. Option 2 IMHO is the way to go as you will be able to see what you are cutting out and again IMHO it is a safer method.

It would have helped if you had inserted some dimensions as to what is required, this will help others to give you the necessary advice.

I have mastered the use of the template guides and when contemplating such a project I start looking to see if it is possible using the guides and usually it is. As I said above I look for a safe method all the time.

Tom (Template Tom)
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-22-2009, 08:54 PM
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Hi Jim

I know I'm sticking my neck out again but take a look at the link below..
I also did one but I will not link that one because I may get some flack on it because I don't do all the steps the same way...but I get the same thing in the end..

http://www.routerforums.com/guide-bu...tical-box.html
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http://www.routerforums.com/108513-post40.html
http://www.routerforums.com/117493-post1.html
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Last edited by bobj3; 12-22-2009 at 09:42 PM.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-22-2009, 09:25 PM
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Jim,

With guides, the offset calculations are done from the outside of the guide as it will be what is resting against the template. The inner dimension is only important if it is smaller than the bit. :-) ...actually, some room aids with chip clearing, but you get my drift. With a 21/32" (inside) x 3/4" (outside) and a half-inch bit, your offset = (3/4"-1/2")/2 = 1/8". The bit clearance (bit to guide edge) = (21/32" - 1/2")/2 = 5/64".

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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-23-2009, 08:17 AM
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Jim, take a look at this old project of mine, I think it's what you're after. I could only find the link for making the lid, somewhere there is a full photo shoot of routing the box out of solid wood.

http://www.routerforums.com/guide-bu...d-box-lid.html

Harry



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