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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-26-2009, 10:18 AM Thread Starter
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Default Router Speeds

Hi folks,
I am a novice woodworker(to say the least). I am attempting to route a 1x 3/4 base cap moulding on top of 5" cherry boards. I am able to do this but am suffering some pull outs unless I use 1/8" passes. Is this normal and can I do anything to improve this (vary speed, etc). Currently running boards down an 8 foot router table with a 1/2" riobe router going full speed. Thanks for your input
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-26-2009, 10:45 AM
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Hi Andy


You may want to use a VERY sharp bit,,the finger nail test works well,just put it on the top of your finger nail, on the cutter if it's sharp you can put a very small cut into your finger nail, if you can't you need to get a sharp one out and use it,,a cut not a scratch it should peel it like a very sharp chisel/knife/razor blade will do.

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Originally Posted by Andynealg View Post
Hi folks,
I am a novice woodworker(to say the least). I am attempting to route a 1x 3/4 base cap moulding on top of 5" cherry boards. I am able to do this but am suffering some pull outs unless I use 1/8" passes. Is this normal and can I do anything to improve this (vary speed, etc). Currently running boards down an 8 foot router table with a 1/2" riobe router going full speed. Thanks for your input



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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-26-2009, 11:13 AM
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Taking lighter cuts is almost always a better idea for performance of the bit and in getting the best finish on the wood.
Bit RPM is set more according to the diameter of the bit itself. See the link below for a chart with general RPM settings for common bit sizes. You can alter the RPM some to best fit the job but not much and certainly not higher than the maximums in the chart. Good bits should come with RPM recommendations from the manufacturer.

Router Bit Speed Chart - NewWoodworker.com LLC

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NewWoodworker.com
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-26-2009, 12:52 PM Thread Starter
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Yes, but is there a formua for the type of wood. That is, does cherry want a lower speed than pine, or do you want the max for the router bit always
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-26-2009, 01:51 PM
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It's rare that I use my routers at full speed. Even for a 1/8" bit.
A slower speed will help with burning, but how fast you move the wood across the bit also matters. Too slow and you get burning. Tests are the best way to figure it all out.

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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-26-2009, 02:13 PM
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I do the same as Mike

It's one of things that will come in time, how to set the speed and how to read the wood you are using,,the router has a voice so to speak and will tell you what you need to do to get that fine cut..


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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-26-2009, 04:02 PM
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-26-2009, 06:42 PM
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Hi,

Welcome to the router forums.

Each piece of wood is different. Density, grain direction, moisture content (and not just in the wood either). Is the bit sharp? Are you going with or against the grain? How fast are you moving the wood through the bit? Many variables in the equation. Do as Mike and Bj suggested, use test pieces, try different speeds. In time, it will become more of a "feel" than anything else.

HTH

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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-27-2009, 12:58 AM
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Welcome to the forums Andy.




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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-28-2009, 08:32 AM Thread Starter
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Default backer boards?

Some people have suggested running the board the"wrong way" thru the fence as a cure for pull outs or chip outs. The boards I'm running are 8 to 12 feet in length so they will be manageable even though the cutter will be trying to fling them out. Does anyone have anthing to say about this?

Also I read an idea about "backer boards" from your people where you take a polyethelyne board and mill an exact profile of the router in it to provide a "shear" . Would this work in this case? (Base cap cutter about 1-1/4 high by 5/8 deep). It would seem that I would need a piece of poly this size of my fence ;(4"x8ft) or else get the poly about 4 ft and put two ft wood spacers on the end
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