RWS Episode on raised panels . . . - Router Forums
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post #1 of 24 (permalink) Old 12-30-2009, 04:40 PM Thread Starter
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Default RWS Episode on raised panels . . .

Well, it's getting close now. My bits for raising panels are ordered and should be "in the mail" now. I am getting antsy . . . quite eager to try this out.

Now, Bob and Rick of the RWS, so well known to this group, did a segment on raising panels.

A couple of surprising points:

1/ They went straight to the largest type of bit . . . 3 1/2" in diameter with integral backcutter. No mention at all of the vertical bit alternative.

2/ They cut everything in a single pass! In fact Bob seemed quite dismissive of any need to make several passes even with this humungous chunk of whirling steel. I forget his precise comment but it was to the effect that multiple passes just put more wear on the bits and result in them getting dull sooner and the the bits were "designed to do the job in one pass." (Please don't hold me to the exact words.)

Any comments about this from experienced panel raisers here?

Of course, as always, he did things in a blur and it all looked so totally safe and easy!

The bits I ordered were from Busy Bee here in Canada. The rail and stile cutters were $80 and, for $90 they offered a boxed set including the 3 1/2" ogee raising bit. So, that seems an unbeatable deal . . . the raised panel cutter (no back cut though) for a mere $10 extra.

I ordered a vertical raising bit too. Looking forward to their getting here.

Terry Danks
Rural Nova Scotia(or Florida)
Nature and Wildlife Photography
http://danks.netfirms.com/home.htm
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post #2 of 24 (permalink) Old 12-30-2009, 06:42 PM
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The bit they used is/was 3 1/4" not 3 1/2". Also, OP no longer carries that bit. Somewhere here on the forums is listed a replacement bit that Freud makes. It will take some doing to find it.

Also, Bob & Rick were/are using routers that are of the 3+hp size. These have the power to turn those large bits and take on the full cut without problems. If you have a router that's smaller than the 3+hp range, then, yes, you have to take it in "bites".

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post #3 of 24 (permalink) Old 12-30-2009, 07:32 PM
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Hi Ken

I think the bit is 2 3/4" OD, the hole in the OP is 3 1/8"

Terry ,if you think you can use the 3 1/2" bit in the OP system you are in for a surprise, it can be done but you will need to rework the plate 1st.

"designed to do the job in one pass." = right on with Bob's words

#8689 1/2" x 2-3/4"
MLCS Raised Panel Carbide Tipped Router Bits 1

1pc 1/2"SH Convex Raised Panel w/Back Cutter Router Bit - eBay (item 140370919512 end time Jan-06-10 12:21:19 PST)

http://www.amazon.com/Freud-99-513-R...2224119&sr=1-9
=========

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The bit they used is/was 3 1/4" not 3 1/2". Also, OP no longer carries that bit. Somewhere here on the forums is listed a replacement bit that Freud makes. It will take some doing to find it.

Also, Bob & Rick were/are using routers that are of the 3+hp size. These have the power to turn those large bits and take on the full cut without problems. If you have a router that's smaller than the 3+hp range, then, yes, you have to take it in "bites".



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Last edited by bobj3; 12-30-2009 at 07:50 PM.
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post #4 of 24 (permalink) Old 12-30-2009, 07:36 PM
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Terry, first I am very impressed with you wildlife photography web site. Years ago, long before the internet was public, I set a goal of photodocumenting every biome on earth, including the marine biomes. I had nearly 400 slides of tropical marine animals.

to answer you question, I found the following information through the community search on Freud Raised Panel:

Bits for the Oak Park raised panel system

The 3 wing bits for the Oak Park panel raising system are no longer available. The jig will only function properly with certain sized bits. Here are the numbers of Freud bits that will work correctly with the system:
#99-264
#99-261
#99-263

There is also a video in the OakPark online catalog that shows how their Raised Panel fence is used.

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post #5 of 24 (permalink) Old 12-30-2009, 07:54 PM Thread Starter
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Well, I am not actually using the OP table or plate. My Plate will accommodate a 3 1/2" bit and my router is 3 1/4 hp. So there should be no especial problems for me in that regard.

Not using their fences either. While the fences used in the video are "elegant," they seem pricey too and their function rather easily easily emulated at home.

And , to round it out, I will not be using their bits, or their sled either. I guess it just their technique I was interested in comments on. The bit I ordered is indeed 3 1/2" and I was ignorant that the one they were using was smaller.

I still kind of thought small passes were to be used with any large bit . . . not just to minimize the load on the machine but to get a smoother cut and to minimize the possibility of tear out. Of course I will be using a backer block too.

Thanks for the replies so far . . . and the comments on my web site.

Terry Danks
Rural Nova Scotia(or Florida)
Nature and Wildlife Photography
http://danks.netfirms.com/home.htm
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post #6 of 24 (permalink) Old 12-30-2009, 08:14 PM
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Yup, Bj is correct about the bit size. My apologies for that, fingers get to typing faster than the brain works sometimes.

You would only need to take multiple passes if you have a smaller router than the 3+hp size. These have the power to turn that size of bit without issues. One pass is great, again, provided you have a router to do the job. This is why it's always recommended to have the 3+hp BUT, the 2 1/4 hp - 2 1/2hp will do the same job. Only difference is, they will need to take the multiple pass method.

Bob & Rick's method is quite simple. Remember, it follows the K.I.S.S. rule. As Rick says, Keep It Simple System. How they do things are just that.

Ken

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post #7 of 24 (permalink) Old 12-30-2009, 10:49 PM
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HI Terry

It's hard to use a backer block with the big panel bits but you can use the two bearing way to make in safer and less of a load on the router..

All that's needed is two bearings one with a bigger OD and then switch over to the standard bearing.. with the strait panels it's not big deal to just move the fence but with the other panel profiles it can be tricky with more than one pass..

=====

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Originally Posted by dawziecat View Post
Well, I am not actually using the OP table or plate. My Plate will accommodate a 3 1/2" bit and my router is 3 1/4 hp. So there should be no especial problems for me in that regard.

Not using their fences either. While the fences used in the video are "elegant," they seem pricey too and their function rather easily easily emulated at home.

And , to round it out, I will not be using their bits, or their sled either. I guess it just their technique I was interested in comments on. The bit I ordered is indeed 3 1/2" and I was ignorant that the one they were using was smaller.

I still kind of thought small passes were to be used with any large bit . . . not just to minimize the load on the machine but to get a smoother cut and to minimize the possibility of tear out. Of course I will be using a backer block too.

Thanks for the replies so far . . . and the comments on my web site.



"It's fine to disagree with other members as long as you respect their opinions"

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http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCT-n...RWaEpMA/videos

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post #8 of 24 (permalink) Old 12-30-2009, 11:41 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobj3 View Post
HI Terry

It's hard to use a backer block with the big panel bits but you can use the two bearing way to make in safer and less of a load on the router..

All that's needed is two bearings one with a bigger OD and then switch over to the standard bearing.. with the strait panels it's not big deal to just move the fence but with the other panel profiles it can be tricky with more than one pass..

=====
Whoa! Baby steps, please.

By "straight panels," I take it to mean no curves . . . just 4 ninety degree angles?

If so, straight panels are all I'm after. When I get bored with them, maybe I'll think about fancier ones . . but probably not . . .

My comment about the backer block was for the rails. I have no idea how a backer block could be used when cutting the panels.

When my bits get here, I guess I'll fool around with them a bit to see how the "one pass" system works with my new table. I've fashioned a sled, of sorts for coping the rails. The first iteration of it can be seen at this link: Photography of Terry Danks

See any reason why it won't work?

Terry Danks
Rural Nova Scotia(or Florida)
Nature and Wildlife Photography
http://danks.netfirms.com/home.htm
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post #9 of 24 (permalink) Old 12-30-2009, 11:53 PM
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Hi Terry

OK

" just 4 ninety degree angles? " = right on, but in time you will want to do the great ones, for clocks ,cabinet doors,etc.

" sled " no don't use it, I will show you the easy way without one.
and all your boards will come out dead on with out the need for any sanding them after the router job..

=======

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Whoa! Baby steps, please.

By "straight panels," I take it to mean no curves . . . just 4 ninety degree angles?

If so, straight panels are all I'm after. When I get bored with them, maybe I'll think about fancier ones . . but probably not . . .

My comment about the backer block was for the rails. I have no idea how a backer block could be used when cutting the panels.

When my bits get here, I guess I'll fool around with them a bit to see how the "one pass" system works with my new table. I've fashioned a sled, of sorts for coping the rails. The first iteration of it can be seen at this link: Photography of Terry Danks

See any reason why it won't work?



"It's fine to disagree with other members as long as you respect their opinions"

Marc Sommerfeld Tools ,Videos
http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCT-n...RWaEpMA/videos

Find all threads started by bobj3
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post #10 of 24 (permalink) Old 12-31-2009, 01:14 AM Thread Starter
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" sled " no don't use it, I will show you the easy way without one.
=======
Don't leave me hanging, Bob.

I hunted around a bit in your stuff here. Do you meant just push them through with a push block held tight up against the fence? Like in this link?
http://www.routerforums.com/attachme...g-jig-8185.jpg

Terry Danks
Rural Nova Scotia(or Florida)
Nature and Wildlife Photography
http://danks.netfirms.com/home.htm
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