Fitting door locks and hinges - Router Forums
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-31-2010, 04:38 AM Thread Starter
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Default Fitting door locks and hinges

Am new to using a router. Bought one (Dewalt DW625EK) as I need to rout out a 10mm X 4mm groove to fit an intumescent strip in 2 external door frames (flat packed) I have bought to make them fire resistant.
It seems I can cut out the doors for lock and hinges using the router, but so far it seems I would need to buy an expensive jig to do both. Can the routing out be done safely and reliably using the guide fence and maybe additional timber clamped to the doors?

Thanks in advance for any advice.
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-31-2010, 06:35 AM
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When hanging doors I use a 1/2" hinge mortising bit for the hinges, But for the lockset I use a door boring jig. Yes it was expensive but a nice one. It bores out for the knob & slide bolt in the edge of the door with one set up. You can do this without the jig, it just takes more steps. You can use the right size hole saw & a 1" paddle bit for the slide bolt on the edge of the door. A jig just allows you to align both holes up perfectly with one setup. You can make a jig out of plywood to route for hinges. Practice on a piece of scrap first so you don't ruin your doors.

James
Whittier, CA.

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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-31-2010, 07:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Garb View Post
Am new to using a router. Bought one (Dewalt DW625EK) as I need to rout out a 10mm X 4mm groove to fit an intumescent strip in 2 external door frames (flat packed) I have bought to make them fire resistant.
It seems I can cut out the doors for lock and hinges using the router, but so far it seems I would need to buy an expensive jig to do both. Can the routing out be done safely and reliably using the guide fence and maybe additional timber clamped to the doors?

Thanks in advance for any advice.
Hi Gordon

Welcome to the group. You can make yourself up one of these out of 1/4" MDF, a bit of thickish wood and some coach bolts. The two end pieces move in and out to limit travel. The thicker bit of wood sticking down clamps to the door and is also adjustable for the width of the slot. The first photo is a bit misleading, as I photographed the end stops 90deg out of alignment. All the slots are rebated to allow the coach bolts to slide in them without protruding. I used countersunk bolts to secure the bit of oak sticking down to clamp it to the job with. The countersunk bolts also slide to adjust.
Shout out if you need more information.

HTH

Cheers

Peter
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Last edited by istracpsboss; 03-31-2010 at 08:06 AM.
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-01-2010, 12:00 AM
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Welcome to the RouterForums Gordon. Glad you joined.




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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-01-2019, 02:35 AM
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I am a big supporter of modern technologies, I would advise you to install a smart lock or something like that, it’s very cool
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-01-2019, 10:50 AM
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They might be more inclined towards one of those today. Nine years ago they weren't as popular.
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-01-2019, 09:37 PM
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Use a half inch mortising bit with a top bearing (see pix 1 below). Cut out a piece of 3/4 inch MDF exactly the width of the hinge (see pix 2 below). Use an oversized piece so you can rest the router on top of it so it won't wobble and mess up your mortise. Clamp several pieces of wood to the door so that the template you made rests securely on the edge of the door, supported by the extra wood. Set the depth of the router very carefully to the thickness of the hinge, then starting from the open area of the template, then into the wood.

Make sure you have the hinge on the correct side of the door before you start, and that the lock or latch is where it should be once hung.

If you are replacing existing doors and re-using the existing hinges, lay the old door against the new and transfer the hinge line from the old to the new door. That way, you only have to mortise the door, not the jambs.

If the jambs are new, you will have to place the hinges on both door and jamb. You can do this several ways, for example, mark the door first, then shim under the door so it fits precisely in the jamb, then transfer the marks to the jamb. Personally, I wouldn't cut the hinge mortises in the jamb with a router, I'd do it by hand with a chisel, somewhat like the following paragraph describes.

If your hinges are square, you will need to cut the rounded corners the router makes with a SHARP SHARP SHARP chisel. Did I mention to make sure it is really sharp? Use a little gentle hammer work to score the corner to the depth of the machine mortise. Then use the SUPER SHARP chisel to gradually cut out the wood in the corners.

If you're mortising the jamb, cut the outline with a sharp chisel and very carefully chisel out the mortise. Be careful not to take too much out. Get it as flat as possible. If you're replacing the jamb, consider locating the long screws that connect the jamb to the frame either under the hinge, or through a hole in the hinge.

It is harder to describe this than to do this process. Go slow, take your time, measure carefully. The second pix is of a simple shop made hinge mortising jig. The clamp is a must.
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Last edited by DesertRatTom; 02-01-2019 at 09:40 PM.
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-02-2019, 07:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cherryville Chuck View Post
They might be more inclined towards one of those today. Nine years ago they weren't as popular.

You're so smooth...
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