Marc does bring up some good points on finding your own degree of comfort. With a large router (the Festool being on the small end of the large router scale) it should be reasonably safe to hold low. But you are putting your hands in the path of a snapped bit. Skis or a larger sub-base with peg handles might be better. For me, my ski jig worked great for some carving. This was because I was relieving so much of the background, the router base would not be fully supported otherwise.
And Harry had some good posts in the ski threads about mounting worklights and a magnifier on the skis. That would be a good idea here, you could have a pair of safety glasses on and still get the magnification right at the bit.
When I last did some carving with my router I was OK without the magnification but because I was putting my face right down there I decided to go with the glasses plus face-guard just in case a chip flew out. I didn't want a small chip hitting my cheek and making me flinch. The only thing missing was rigging a hose up on my skis to do some vacuuming of chips. Instead I stopped frequently to dust them out.
As to the small bits, I got some great ones from Think and Tinker (precisebits.com). Sold as "2 flute fish-tail end mills". They are 1/8" shank but you have the choice of letting T&T press on a 1/4" collet adapter, using a 1/8" adapter in your chuck or for some routers they will sell you a 1/8" collet. I went with the 1/4" adapters pressed onto the bit shafts. Worked great. $10 for a 1/32" plus $3 for the bushing.
An alternative method is to stake in along the cut line with the appropriate gouges (bevel into the waste area), then chisel out the waste. Chisel out to about 3/4 or more of the finish depth, don't sweat that it isn't level. Then use a small router plane like the Stanley #271 or a larger plane (#71 or #71-1/2) if you need more support area and a small pointed blade. You can also make an "old woman's tooth" plane for this job and the blade from a hex-key. But unless you heat-treat the blade, it will require frequent sharpening. Use the router plane to level the area and the pointed blade gets you into all but the smallest corners. Those still have to be done with small chisels, picks or the X-Acto blade. Slower but no flying chips to freak out the safety patrol.