Some interesting inlay work... - Router Forums
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-02-2010, 04:50 PM Thread Starter
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Default Some interesting inlay work...

Here's another link from Youtube. This is a 45+min vid. Kinda interesting and yet makes me cringe at some of the method being shown.

http://www.youtube.com/watch_videos?...&no_autoplay=1

Ooops, thanks Harry.

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Last edited by Hamlin; 04-03-2010 at 06:31 PM. Reason: added the forgotten link :D
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-03-2010, 09:29 AM
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It's good to see you back Ken, however, the time away seems to have made you forget to post the promised link! I hope you're having a very pleasant Easter.

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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-03-2010, 06:32 PM Thread Starter
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It's good to see you back Ken, however, the time away seems to have made you forget to post the promised link! I hope you're having a very pleasant Easter.
Thanks Harry , I added the "forgotten link".

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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-03-2010, 07:41 PM
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Hi Ken

THANKS,,That's a great how to link, I like that part about the sand,that's a new one for me ..

I use the scroll saw for all the work,that way I know for sure all the parts will fit.
I wish I had that much control over the router like he has. so to say I have a inlay on both sides of the board so to speak...
==

1/16" router bit

Amazon.com: Freud 04-096 1/16-Inch Diameter by 1/4-Inch Double Flute Straight Router Bit with 1/4-Inch Shank: Home Improvement

Amazon.com: Magnate 1956 Straight Router Bits - 1/16" Cutting Diameter; 1/4" Cutting Length; 1/4" Shank Diameter: Home Improvement

==========

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Thanks Harry , I added the "forgotten link".


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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-03-2010, 08:48 PM Thread Starter
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Hi Bj,

You're welcome my friend. Did you notice how he held the router? I'm wondering if "ski's" wouldn't have worked better.

Ken

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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-03-2010, 09:35 PM
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Hi Ken

yep, I did see that,I have tried that b/4 but with a light router I may try it his way with a tank of a router, that made a lot of sense I don't think the ski jig would help on that type of job...

Just one more inlay video ▼
http://brianhavens.us/resource/router-inlay-basics

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...&filter=inlays
====

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Hi Bj,

You're welcome my friend. Did you notice how he held the router? I'm wondering if "ski's" wouldn't have worked better.



"It's fine to disagree with other members as long as you respect their opinions"

Marc Sommerfeld Tools ,Videos
http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCT-n...RWaEpMA/videos

Find all threads started by bobj3
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Last edited by bobj3; 04-03-2010 at 10:07 PM.
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-04-2010, 08:43 AM
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-05-2010, 11:37 AM
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Marc does bring up some good points on finding your own degree of comfort. With a large router (the Festool being on the small end of the large router scale) it should be reasonably safe to hold low. But you are putting your hands in the path of a snapped bit. Skis or a larger sub-base with peg handles might be better. For me, my ski jig worked great for some carving. This was because I was relieving so much of the background, the router base would not be fully supported otherwise.

And Harry had some good posts in the ski threads about mounting worklights and a magnifier on the skis. That would be a good idea here, you could have a pair of safety glasses on and still get the magnification right at the bit.

When I last did some carving with my router I was OK without the magnification but because I was putting my face right down there I decided to go with the glasses plus face-guard just in case a chip flew out. I didn't want a small chip hitting my cheek and making me flinch. The only thing missing was rigging a hose up on my skis to do some vacuuming of chips. Instead I stopped frequently to dust them out.

As to the small bits, I got some great ones from Think and Tinker (precisebits.com). Sold as "2 flute fish-tail end mills". They are 1/8" shank but you have the choice of letting T&T press on a 1/4" collet adapter, using a 1/8" adapter in your chuck or for some routers they will sell you a 1/8" collet. I went with the 1/4" adapters pressed onto the bit shafts. Worked great. $10 for a 1/32" plus $3 for the bushing.

An alternative method is to stake in along the cut line with the appropriate gouges (bevel into the waste area), then chisel out the waste. Chisel out to about 3/4 or more of the finish depth, don't sweat that it isn't level. Then use a small router plane like the Stanley #271 or a larger plane (#71 or #71-1/2) if you need more support area and a small pointed blade. You can also make an "old woman's tooth" plane for this job and the blade from a hex-key. But unless you heat-treat the blade, it will require frequent sharpening. Use the router plane to level the area and the pointed blade gets you into all but the smallest corners. Those still have to be done with small chisels, picks or the X-Acto blade. Slower but no flying chips to freak out the safety patrol.

Last edited by rwyoung; 04-05-2010 at 11:43 AM.
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-05-2010, 11:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobj3 View Post
Hi Ken

THANKS,,That's a great how to link, I like that part about the sand,that's a new one for me ..

I use the scroll saw for all the work,that way I know for sure all the parts will fit.
I wish I had that much control over the router like he has. so to say I have a inlay on both sides of the board so to speak...
==

1/16" router bit

Amazon.com: Freud 04-096 1/16-Inch Diameter by 1/4-Inch Double Flute Straight Router Bit with 1/4-Inch Shank: Home Improvement

Amazon.com: Magnate 1956 Straight Router Bits - 1/16" Cutting Diameter; 1/4" Cutting Length; 1/4" Shank Diameter: Home Improvement

==========
Do you understand now Bob why I use a BIG router, so much easier to control.

Harry



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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-05-2010, 11:25 PM
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Thanks for that link Ken. Marc really is a great presenter, he knows what he's doing and his uninterrupted commentary is so easy on the ear.
One of these days I'm going to give it a go rather than my usual method of pre-made inlays. I will however use the skis, which are the perfect answer for this operation.

Harry



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