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post #1 of 36 (permalink) Old 04-08-2010, 12:43 PM Thread Starter
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Default Routing around a door

I have a project to do, I need to take all the cabinet doors off of a customers kitchen and rout a pattern into them. I have purchased the Freud bit to rout the profile, but have a question about execution. My plan is to build a simple sliding jig that will accommodate all the doors of the same height, (it slides in and out to accommodate different widths), and have just enough shoulder to secure the base of the router with out catching on the handles. I have 3 different routers to choose from, 2 have plunge bases, (both 1.5 hp), 1 does not, (3.25 hp).

The bit is a 1 1/4" diameter shallow profile, with a 1/2" shank, I expect to load the bit, probably use a plunge router(?), drop the bit into the door and rout around in a counter clockwise direction until I meet up with the starting point then lift the bit out.

Foolproof? Not for me! Still, does this sound like a fair plan, or should I expect to build an inner "bushing" to prevent any 'router wander'?

Thanks Guys

Jack


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post #2 of 36 (permalink) Old 04-08-2010, 06:44 PM
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If I were going to do it, I would make a pattern, and for a little wider , a wider pattern, and so on. Are You putting an inlay material in the area? Remember that most doors are built out of ply material, Jack. Not trying to stop You, just tell it as I see it.

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post #3 of 36 (permalink) Old 04-08-2010, 07:35 PM
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Hi Jack

This is a common thing with MDF doors, a pocket jig works the best or you could call it a sandwich template box, the box is around the door and the template just slides in the sandwich box ( 1/2" thick MDF template) but I would suggest you remove the handles and the hinges, you should not need two templates ,one will do the trick, the bit will hold the 1 1/2 router to the template when you go the with clockwise direction ,that's to say if you run on the inside of the template..to put the pattern on the door front..I will say it looks great in plywood also but do a test board 1st. to get the hang of it...


http://www.grizzly.com/products/C1681
http://www.grizzly.com/catalog/2010/Main/459




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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack Wilson View Post
I have a project to do, I need to take all the cabinet doors off of a customers kitchen and rout a pattern into them. I have purchased the Freud bit to rout the profile, but have a question about execution. My plan is to build a simple sliding jig that will accommodate all the doors of the same height, (it slides in and out to accommodate different widths), and have just enough shoulder to secure the base of the router with out catching on the handles. I have 3 different routers to choose from, 2 have plunge bases, (both 1.5 hp), 1 does not, (3.25 hp).

The bit is a 1 1/4" diameter shallow profile, with a 1/2" shank, I expect to load the bit, probably use a plunge router(?), drop the bit into the door and rout around in a counter clockwise direction until I meet up with the starting point then lift the bit out.

Foolproof? Not for me! Still, does this sound like a fair plan, or should I expect to build an inner "bushing" to prevent any 'router wander'?

Thanks Guys



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Last edited by bobj3; 04-08-2010 at 07:41 PM.
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post #4 of 36 (permalink) Old 04-09-2010, 07:47 PM Thread Starter
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Default Jack responds

Well we looked the doors over the best we could before agreeing to the project, and though I expected plywood, (and they may be), the best we could see they are solid pine. The "problem" is that they are painted. However, when I am done we will paint them still another color yet again. It's a cheap way to dress their kitchen up.
No, no inlay will be placed into the routed out area. I went to the grizzly links, nice bits, but I already bought one, and it does not have a bearing, I was planning to let the base guide me. Thanks for the tip on "clock-wise" I had the bit backwards in my mind, sorry.
So it sounds like you expect that letting the base ride against a "stop" all the way around the door, using a 'clock-wise' rotation will keep the router against the rail and it shouldn't wander into the door. Is that correct?

Thanks

Jack


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post #5 of 36 (permalink) Old 04-09-2010, 08:24 PM
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Hi Jack

I would suggest using a brass guide, a 1 " diam.one in that way you will not need a bearing but I would suggest not using the router base, they are not true the norm...you can also order a bearing to fit the router bit...

Top Mounted Bearing Kits

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======

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack Wilson View Post
Well we looked the doors over the best we could before agreeing to the project, and though I expected plywood, (and they may be), the best we could see they are solid pine. The "problem" is that they are painted. However, when I am done we will paint them still another color yet again. It's a cheap way to dress their kitchen up.
No, no inlay will be placed into the routed out area. I went to the grizzly links, nice bits, but I already bought one, and it does not have a bearing, I was planning to let the base guide me. Thanks for the tip on "clock-wise" I had the bit backwards in my mind, sorry.
So it sounds like you expect that letting the base ride against a "stop" all the way around the door, using a 'clock-wise' rotation will keep the router against the rail and it shouldn't wander into the door. Is that correct?

Thanks



"It's fine to disagree with other members as long as you respect their opinions"

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http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCT-n...RWaEpMA/videos

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post #6 of 36 (permalink) Old 04-09-2010, 10:39 PM
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BJ.. Unless I mis-read his post, the bit is 1-1/4" diameter so a 1" bushing would be tough.

Jack,

For this you could use a bearing or a guide, as BJ indicates. Personally I prefer guides, but each to their own.

For using a guide the quick but expensive (~$45) solution is to go with a Veritas (or Oak Park)) router base plate that accomodates the larger-than-PC guides. Where the PC guides use a 1-3/8" counterbore, these use a 1-3/4" counterbore. As a result, they make a guide that is 1-1/2" OD and 1-3/8"ID (item "G" on attachment 04j2601q1). Using the base plate centering jig that comes with the Veritas, it could be installed and running in minutes.

Veritas® Base Plate/Table Insert - Lee Valley Tools

1-3/4" Brass Template Guides - Lee Valley Tools

A much less expensive solution, if you have the tools, is to either make your own base plate to fit these larger guides or drill yours out, using a technique BJ has posted before. Assuming you have 1-3/8", 1-1/2" and 1-3/4" forstner drill bits, you could just buy the bushing for ~$5.

This guide is one of my favorites because, with a 1/2" bit (sturdy but good for handheld, in my opinion) you get an even 1/2" offset.
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Last edited by BigJimAK; 04-09-2010 at 10:42 PM.
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post #7 of 36 (permalink) Old 04-09-2010, 11:03 PM
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Hi Jack (no, I'm not hijacking this thread!) how about a photo or two, I'm sure that would bring forth specific solutions to your problem, also, are the doors all the same size and how about a simple drawing of the proposed pattern. It would also be helpful to know what size template guides you have. For a 1 1/4" cutter I would personally use a 40mm guide or in your Imperial country probably a 1 1/2" guide. I had, some time ago, intended to do the same with all the internal doors in our home until I realised that they were covered in thin plywood.
Assuming that you have a 1 1/2" guide, then the opening in your template would be 1/4" bigger than the finished pattern (guide dia. - cutter dia.= size of template cut-out) this for a female template, a male one would be 1/4" smaller than pattern.
Of course there is the alternative, easier method of prettying up doors, add mouldings, there are numerous patterns available, here is just one link.

Modern

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post #8 of 36 (permalink) Old 04-10-2010, 08:51 AM Thread Starter
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Default Jack responds... again, this time w/pictures

Ok, I will try to add some pictures, but not to belabor the point, my real question is simply how to get the router to go around the door with out wandering away from the fence. I am not concerned about the possibility that the round base is either not true or not centered. I will hold router in 1 position so that it is always facing North. Doors are in two different heights, but many widths, hence the "sliding" frame I referred to earlier. I do not have the doors here yet, I will probably get them on Monday.

The doors are 3/4" thick partial overlay, I was planning to build a simple 'fence' around 3 sides of the door with a 'sliding' fence or frame on the 4th side, to accommodate different widths. The 'fence' would be offset with a spacer to allow me to adjust exactly where the router bit falls on the door.

If the pictures do not tell the tale, let me know, the pencil is still sharp!

Thanks,
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Jack


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post #9 of 36 (permalink) Old 04-10-2010, 09:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack Wilson View Post
Ok, I will try to add some pictures, but not to belabor the point, my real question is simply how to get the router to go around the door with out wandering away from the fence. I am not concerned about the possibility that the round base is either not true or not centered. I will hold router in 1 position so that it is always facing North. Doors are in two different heights, but many widths, hence the "sliding" frame I referred to earlier. I do not have the doors here yet, I will probably get them on Monday.

The doors are 3/4" thick partial overlay, I was planning to build a simple 'fence' around 3 sides of the door with a 'sliding' fence or frame on the 4th side, to accommodate different widths. The 'fence' would be offset with a spacer to allow me to adjust exactly where the router bit falls on the door.

If the pictures do not tell the tale, let me know, the pencil is still sharp!

Thanks,
Forgive the terrible photo Jack, but it's 10.30PM and this type of shot requires daylight. Are you wanting to achieve similar results to these doors which were done on a CNC router. If it is, I reckon that I'd use a male template, just a rectangle of MDF and, because the doors are going to be repainted I'd pin it in place centrally on the biggest door and rout around it keeping the guide hard up to the template, being careful not to over shoot at the corners. Next, reduce the size of the template to suit the next largest door and so on to the smallest door. This is the simplest way that I can think of and one that I used heaps of times many years ago before becoming familiar with female templates. Hopefully other members will chime in with their ideas, in any case, please do show us how you ended up doing it and of course the final result.
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post #10 of 36 (permalink) Old 04-10-2010, 10:14 AM
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Hi Jack

By using the router base as the guide it will give you a error in the corners, I take it this is what you want to end up with..see below, plus a quick way to make a template that will do the job you want..

You can also use the brass guide in place for the bearing..

=====



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"It's fine to disagree with other members as long as you respect their opinions"

Marc Sommerfeld Tools ,Videos
http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCT-n...RWaEpMA/videos

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Last edited by bobj3; 04-10-2010 at 10:41 AM.
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