Cutting 3/4" deep Dados - Router Forums
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-05-2010, 06:52 PM Thread Starter
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Default Cutting 3/4" deep Dados

What bit would be the best to make a dado 3/4"deep by 1 1/2" wide? I have a 2HP router.

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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-23-2010, 09:53 PM
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Originally Posted by JohnnyB60 View Post
What bit would be the best to make a dado 3/4"deep by 1 1/2" wide? I have a 2HP router.

Hi Johnny,

I see that you have not had any replies as yet.

There are many ways to achieve this.

I would say that any straight cutting bit 1/2" or greater will do as long as:
1. It protrudes at least 1" below the base plate on you router.
2. You make a simple adjustable dado jig to set the width at 1 1/2".

One of may ways......

James
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-23-2010, 11:17 PM
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What bit would be the best to make a dado 3/4"deep by 1 1/2" wide? I have a 2HP router.
Hi Johnny - I apologize, I'm with James and somehow missed youre first post. You didn't say how long the dado was but it is fairly easy. For 3/4 deep, you will want a fair sized bit, 1/2 or 3/4" in diameter. Preferably a half inch shank. Just need to clamp some guide strips parallel to the dado and start routing. Just where to place the guide strips we will need to know the size bit you are using and what the diameter of the router base plate is. It would also help to know the degree of precision you need to achieve as that could have a bearing on the method used. As James pointed out, there are many ways to do it, just a matter of picking the best and safest.

John Schaben

The problem with experience is I usually get it immediately after I need it.
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-24-2010, 12:57 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys, I was cutting a lot of dados that were ĺĒ deep by 1-1/2Ē wide and my 2Hp Craftsman Router was having a real hard time of it with a ĹĒ straight slot bit. I was looking around and I found some spiral bits for sale on the internet, but Iíve never seen them before.

I finally ended up using my Radial Saw with a stacked dado set and it was a little scary because the blades were trying to climb up over the wood.

I canít remember how many cuts I had to make, but I was looking for a fast safe way to do it. I think if I had the correct router and bit, it might have been easier. One of these days Iím going to buy a new router, but thatís another story.
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-24-2010, 06:47 AM
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Hi Johnny,
Making a couple of passes to reach the 3/4" depth would be easier on your router bit also.

James
Whittier, CA.

Have a nice & safe day!
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-24-2010, 09:11 AM Thread Starter
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Hi Johnny,
Making a couple of passes to reach the 3/4" depth would be easier on your router bit also.
Yes, Iím aware of that and itís the same thing for using the Radial Arm Saw.

I just had a lot of dados to do and it was a lot of trouble changing the depth especially with my Craftsman Router. Itís a real pain to change the depth on it. So much so that I usually just set it to 3/8Ē and leave it like that, but this one time I needed a ĺĒ deep dado. I have another ľĒ router that I use for everything else.
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-24-2010, 02:43 PM
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Johnny,

You don't say what the shank diameter is for your router. When making full-width cuts like this the cut should be no more than the lesser of the bit and shank diameter. That is, a 1/2" bit cutter with a 1/4" shank (collet) should cut no more than 1/4" deep per cut. Otherwise you risk breaking off the bit. I used to push this until I sheared off my first bit. Fortunately no one was hurt.. now it's my mantra.

Check out that new high-tech cordless router.. wireless and no recharging required!!
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-25-2010, 07:32 PM Thread Starter
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Johnny,

You don't say what the shank diameter is for your router. When making full-width cuts like this the cut should be no more than the lesser of the bit and shank diameter. That is, a 1/2" bit cutter with a 1/4" shank (collet) should cut no more than 1/4" deep per cut. Otherwise you risk breaking off the bit. I used to push this until I sheared off my first bit. Fortunately no one was hurt.. now it's my mantra.
Sorry about that. Yes it is a Ĺ” shank. I actually bought the bit for making mortises before I even owned a Ĺ” router. A friend of mine gave me an old Walker Turner drill press and I turned it into a mortising machine. It didn't work too well.

I don’t think there was such a thing as a plunge router at the time. I first noticed a plunge router about a month after I bought my 2hp, 1/2” Craftsman. I should have taken it back and exchanged it for the Plunge but I waited too long. That was probably why I got it so cheap.
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-25-2010, 08:52 PM
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Originally Posted by JohnnyB60 View Post
Yes, Iím aware of that and itís the same thing for using the Radial Arm Saw.

I just had a lot of dados to do and it was a lot of trouble changing the depth especially with my Craftsman Router. Itís a real pain to change the depth on it. So much so that I usually just set it to 3/8Ē and leave it like that, but this one time I needed a ĺĒ deep dado. I have another ľĒ router that I use for everything else.
You could set your router to the full depth and use 1/4" thick strips of hardboard, or whatever, either side of the dado for the router to ride on. Start with two stacked strips to cut the first 1/4", then a single strip to cut to 1/2" depth, etc.
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-25-2010, 09:08 PM
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Great idea, Dave..

Check out that new high-tech cordless router.. wireless and no recharging required!!
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