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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-27-2010, 01:29 AM Thread Starter
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Hi everyone - I am super excited to start incorporating routing into my woodworking journey! I have a Triton 2 1/4hp plunge router, and I spent the good part of today making practice cuts using both a 3/8" roundover and 1/4" straight bit. I did notice that, while using the roundover bit, I had slight burn marks at the beginning of a cut. Is this just an indication that I started out using too deep of a cut and need to make successive, shallow passes? Are there other reasons for wood burning when routing? Thanks so much everyone, I look forward to learning as much about routers from all the knowledgeable folks on this forum!
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-27-2010, 01:37 AM Thread Starter
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Sorry folks, looks like I forgot to introduce myself. I am a musician living in Los Angeles, and I have been trying to teach myself woodworking for the past few years. I was never privileged enough to have been offered shop or woodworking classes in school, so I rely primarily on reading books, taking workshops at local Woodcraft stores, and practicing in the garage by undertaking small projects. My primary goal is to make fine furniture in the future, and hopefully I'll be able to pick everyone's brain on this forum so I can utilize the router's capabilities in my future projects. Thanks everyone!
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-27-2010, 01:50 AM
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Making too deep of a cut is never a good idea but I think it is more common for people to hesitate a bit at the beginning and end of a cut. That allows the bit to build heat and leave a burn mark. Most often the burning is not severe and you can sand it out. We all have to practice keeping the router moving at a nice pace where the bit is engaged but just slow enough to let it do its work "force feeding" the wood into it. Hitting the perfect speed is really more feel than any specific feet per minute rates that we wouldn't quantify clearly anyway. Practice, learning the right feed rate and bit speed for the job will all make for better looking cuts with no burn marks.
Of course, I have been doing this for 30-some years now and occasionally have to close the shop doors and quickly sand out a little burn mark I made....

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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-27-2010, 06:06 AM
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Hi Mike, Welcome.
+1 on what Tom said. For a 3/8" round over I usually do it in one pass. It's not really that big of a bit. I use the 1/8" & 1/4" more often then the 3/8".

James
Whittier, CA.

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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-27-2010, 11:18 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks James and Tom for the advice. It very well might be my tentative 'starting' which would cause the bit to heat up in one spot and burn the wood. Good to know!
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-27-2010, 11:47 AM
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Greetings and welcome to the router forum. We are pleased to have you join us.

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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-27-2010, 09:47 PM
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Welcome Mike. Welcome to the RouterForums. Great to have you join us.




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In woodworking there is no scrap, only firewood.



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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-28-2010, 12:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikecorwin View Post
Hi everyone - I am super excited to start incorporating routing into my woodworking journey! I have a Triton 2 1/4hp plunge router, and I spent the good part of today making practice cuts using both a 3/8" roundover and 1/4" straight bit. I did notice that, while using the roundover bit, I had slight burn marks at the beginning of a cut. Is this just an indication that I started out using too deep of a cut and need to make successive, shallow passes? Are there other reasons for wood burning when routing? Thanks so much everyone, I look forward to learning as much about routers from all the knowledgeable folks on this forum!
Hello Mike,
In my experience it's natural to start off a bit slow until everything looks good. When I route molding or trim I allow a couple of inches on the ends for splits and burns and cut my pieces in between ( just as I do for planing lumber I allow for snipe ) If you are routing a piece that can not be trimmed Rout the end grain first! Then you can clean it up on the long grain pass. Round over and straight bits can be done in multi depth cuts. Most profile cuts that can not be made in one pass need to be made in horizontal passes ! You will not get the right profile if you try using depth of cut. Never cut deeper than the width of a bit in one pass !!! 1/4 bit =1/4 depth max. Oh yea I almost forgot no matter how much you love woodworking, you still have to sand !!!!!!!!!!!!
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-28-2010, 01:06 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks everyone for the advice and the nice welcome. I look forward to learning as much as I can from you folks on this forum!
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